Crackhead resurrection

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1941954974...CC+285Cu.+In.+V8+GAS+DOHC+Naturally+Aspirated


Would these doors work? Don't know if that's a good price or not, I bought 2 full dorrs with trim for the Sequoia for $100. https://boulder.craigslist.org/pts/d/longmont-toyota-tundra-access-cab-doors/7455611678.html

 

Thanks for those! I think any access cab door will work. I don't see why these trucks would have a different door than the rest of the fleet. Doesn't make sense not to reuse those parts for this.

Anyways, I think the passengers side door I have will be fine, and the body shop guy can smooth it over pretty easy.

I really need a driver's side door.

 

I think I was able to vacuum all the nasties out of the AC core. Had to put a pretty good break in the bottom of the drain pan. Ya know, the one that runs outside the fire wall to the nipple? Changed the nipple to a much longer one too. Haven't cut to length yet. Project for another time as I am out of time today. Still need to secure it to a mounting point too. Maybe further back on the frame so it will drip straight down from there. I'll figure it out.


Cleaned up the blower motor too. Lubed it up as best I could, and then made an extension cord with flat blade terminals in case it caught on fire. So it wouldn't be in the truck if it did. Let it run for 15 on high. Didn't catch fire so I slapped it back in the truck.


Tested one of my new fangled LED cigarette plug bulbs. Looks good in the photo, but the blue line shows where it looks pretty dead in the day light. Maybe it would look better at night. Time will tell. Plopped in a green LED in the ashtray spot too.


Messaged @Roman about getting a new ignition ring. Mine is beat to hell. Plopped in a cool white for now.


Realized the heater core is actually behind the center if the dash, and when I was in that junkyard I'd only taken loose the AC core thing. Whoops.

Guess I need to see if there are any videos on that, or what @empty_lord would charge me to put my dash back in for me...

 

Damn did the mice chew right through the fins on the blower motor blade?

 

Naw, that's a spinning picture. Here's a non spinny

 

I need to get in and clean out my damn AC evap container. Dammit.

 

What I need is to find a rear ended truck that hasn't been gutted yet so I can get in there and play in the interior. Take shit apart. Figure out how to do a big job like taking the heater core, and the evap core out.

Need to either seal, or replace the bottom of my evap core. I'd like to replace it all with new, but know how is the issue.

 

When I do, plans are to do something similar to what a poster named Bob did !

The 6 Million Dollar Tundra Revival Story

 

I think you'd have been ahead buying nudrat's truck. But we're learning so much through your journey so there's that.

 

Mine smells musky when I first turn it on. Really need to clean it as well. Give us a write up @shifty` ! The valve covers can wait!

 

@BubbaW eluded to PHM's thread for more info on how to clean.

I'd just add one thing to it. Without major hole drilling, I've seen others fish stuff in that front rectangular hole and vacuum most of the garbage out, since our trucks have no cabin filter.

BG sells a product I've used numerous times called BG Frigi Clean, here: https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/climate-control/bg-frigi-clean/

A lot of shops offer it as a service but their kit, which isn't necessarily readily available to the public, comes with a brass nipple you can thread high-up into your evap coil housing, and after vacuuming the debris out, you squirt their foamy stuff through the nipple to flood the evap coil housing, and the stuff disintegrates dust, mold, mildew, and other musty funk, after which it drips out the drain tube as a liquid. Leaves stuff smelling fresh and clean after, but the kit comes with added stuff to treat your vents. There's a rubber cap to seal the nipple off after treatment.

I've used this on a couple of cars now, one belonging to the nanny we have pickup the kids after school every day, whose AC condensate was slimed up and causing things to flood into the floorboard. One treatment and it's never happened again (3yrs!), and this was after three times of manual unclogging it in the year prior.

I want to do this to my truck, half a can treats one vehicle. I still have half a can left, just couldn't decide where to put the brass nipple on my Tundra. Previous owner put tens of thousands of dirt road driving on the truck and the interior bits have a fine coating of silty dust everywhere internally.

But the last thing I'd say to you is this: You'll NEVER fix the musty smell in your truck unless you change how you use your AC. If you're the kind of person who leaves the AC running in recirc mode 24/7, you're basically allowing things to breed in that closed system. You should always run in fresh air mode, and if possible, cut off the AC a mile or two before getting home to push fresh, uncooled air through your system to help reduce lingering condensate, which fuels mildew and contributes to mold.

 

$37 GENUINE TOYOTA APPROVED S.E.T. SERVICERITE AC EVAPORATOR REFRESH KIT 00053-00008

https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-APPR...=1646883089&sprefix=toyota+ac+,aps,164&sr=8-4

 

What are those $29 bolts for?

 

I was curious about this because 1) That part number doesn't trace back to anything Toyota and 2) I couldn't find a single source confirming this was "Toyota Approved".

The rabbithole it led me down, I found the actual OEM part number, and while the kit looks similar, this one is actually Toyota Branded and at least $5-10 cheaper. Toyota OEM part number is 00289-ACRKT (or 00289ACRKT) sold as "AC Refresher Kit - Toyota" but it looks like it may be something you'd need to pick up directly at your local dealership, because they won't ship.

 

I went down the same rabbit hole recently, and wound up using this product:

$19 nextzett 96110515 Klima-Cleaner Air Conditioner Cleaner - 10 fl oz

https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-961...oner-Cleaner/dp/B0002Z2MKO?pd_rd_i=B0002Z2MKO

My #1 selection criteria was a product that did NOT have a chemical perfume smell

 

That looks cheaper less expensive, and I tend to favor things made in Germany.

If it matters to anyone, BG's product doesn't have an obnoxious perfumey smell. General process for the BG stuff is here (starting around 3m30), although it's pretty unusual to find a vehicle with the blower motor and evap coil on this side of things. Important thing is just that you install their fitting somewhere on the housing between the blower motor and evap coil so the blower motor pushes the foam into the evap coil significantly. I assume their process would be the same regardless what product you use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5losscd7-Y#t=3m30s

 

True to a degree and as noted in that Amazon link, it's Toyota Approved by S.E.T., which is that blood sucking Southeast Toyota Distributors company. Learned about them a few years back thru @Roman after we had already bought a 2017 High and paid extra for items because at the time did not know better.

Explore Toyota (setbuyatoyota.com)

 

Good info, I wasn't aware of that either. I was aware of the two Toyota entities that tend to do special packages and crap, we see a lot of the X-SP trucks in SE US, which may also be one of their 'update' packages offering. But they do a ton of porting as well.

Honestly, it looks like the Toyota part number for their branded product is cheaper anyway. I'll hafta give it a shot. I'll order a can next time I'm putting in parts for pickup.

 

Inline Coolant Filter came in today. Gonna be a tight squeeze me thinks. Hoping for no leaky!

 

Esploded view!


End cap with seal.



Screen pack. Not a micron filter obviously, but it'll get the job done for what I want anyways.


Screen pack holder.


Looks pretty straight forward, and feels good in the hand. Both end caps are metal. The seals feel good, the plastic in the screen pack feels high temp Tolerant.

 

Working mans cuticles...

 

Well, after many test fits, I finally zeroed in on a combination of upper radiator hose, and lower hose cuts to make it fit. Here goes nothing!


Warming up. Looking for leaks around the blue semi-circle. It being the lowest drip point, that's where coolant would drip. Really digging the color of the coolant though! Neat to see as long as it doesn't grenade.



Warmed up. Thermostat open, and maintaining pressure!



No leaky. I know the bottom end cap kinda looks wet, but it's just a scuff from machining it out that they painted over. You can kinda see how much the hose has expanded from the pressure above the hose clamp.

Let the ole girl run for about 20 minutes after wiping away as much of the coolant residue I spilled when I took the upper hose off so I could see if I had any leaks. No leaky yet.

 

Damn, that's does look kinda like a wart.

What's the clear sleeve on that made out of? Borosilicate glass, plexi, or ??

Just curious if there's any risk of rupture. It'll be interesting to see what it filters out.

 

Yeah, kinda. We talked about my zappy zap, and how that happened. I usually just cut that off with shears once it gets too big.

It doesn't say, and I'm not sure how to dig enough to find it. It's some sort of glass, not really sure how to tell without reading about it. On my phone, there isn't a drop box to leave a question on the Q/A tab on this page.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Champion-Cooling-Systems/166/CCHFBLK-1.50/10002/-1

So far, there isn't anything, but haven't run with it very long. Will definitely be traveling with enough coolant to refill the entire system, a replacement upper hose, and all tools needed to change that out on the side of the Highway.

 

Try it for about a week per directions. Worked wonders for what ailed me !

 

Short drive up to the chapel revealed no leaks. Will mosey to town keeping an eye out for splodeys.



The only directions on this cleaner schtuff is treats "X" amount to "XX" amount. Doesn't day how long it can be in the system or if it will damage any of the metals. I figure I already ran some of it though once when I was doing power flushes way back in Augusta so should be fine. I couldn't dump the whole bottle in the radiator anyway. Not enough room with my coolant top up yesterday.

Drained the coolant from the Overflow rezzz into a partial coolant jug, and then added remainder of the flush to the rezzzz.

Here goes!

 

Godspeed and good luck sir. That filter may be getting a workout.

 

Your system'll be almost like mine 12 hours after starting colonoscopy prep!

Only I'd much rather smell your radiator.

 

Maybe not what you wanted to hear, but this is what I found on their website.

Add contents to the cooling water. Then start up the heater and, depending on the level of contamination, let the engine run at operating temperature for 10 – 30 min. After finishing cleaning, drain the coolant/cleaner mixture, thoroughly flush the cooling system with water and refill it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The content (300 ml) is sufficient for 10 l of coolant (dosage 1:33).

 

I feel like I missed the backstory here. Why did you buy this? Trying to capture any leftover gunk that wasn't flushed out?