Rear access cab speaker

What is the deepest speaker you can install.in the rear acces doors?

 

I don't think anyone has taken that measurement yet. It's super easy to pop off the door panel and check. You mind doing it and getting back to us on that?

 

That sounds fairly easy if I had access to my truck. Only reason why I asked this question is my truck will be gone for 2 weeks at body shop and I'm ordering a few things right now.

 

2000 SR5 Access Cab here. I have Polk Audio DB692's in the stock location. These are 6x9s. I did have to make a custom baffle to mount them in the doors.

 

Was the hole cutout big enough to fit 6x9 housing or did you have to cut the sheet metal

 

I was thinking you just had to remove the plastic mount for the 6.5" stock speaker and there was enough space.

I need to check this out myself. I have some 6x9 tri-axials I want to put back there.

 

Been a while since I changed to the 6x9s, but I don't remember doing any door metal work. I believe I took the stock speaker mount out (a black "cup" that the 6.5" speaker mounted to which was then mounted to the door frame) and was then able to fashion a baffle out of 1/2" MDF that was attached to the door frame with bolts. I then attached the speaker to the MDF. These 6x9s, along with front door replacement 6.5" speakers, are being driven by a couple hundred watt power amp.

You won't really get a lot of bass with this setup due to not having a sealed environment for the 6x9s, but you will get decent volume. For bass, I run 2 8" subs under the right rear seat in the hole where the storage compartment used to be. These are driven by a 525 watt mono power amp. That covers the bass end well for this truck.

 

It varies from model to model, which is why it's best to measure your own truck, not rely on input from others.

Like, check this post out and you'll see his '03 AC door has provisions for a 6x9 from the factory. However, my '06 and several others on here with different years who replied only have provisions for a 6.5" (ish) round which was mounted to a plastic open-back baffle as Jack said. Maybe the depth is the same with all of them.

If I were you I'd also want to know how much space exists between the surface of the door and the door panel for both (A) gauging if you have enough room for cone throw without hitting the panel and (B) knowing whether you can use a baffle board to gain a little more interior depth for a deeper basket/larger magnet.

My advice? If you want to know what'll fit, consult Crutchfield.com and they'll tell you all compatibility options, tell you which adapters you need for a full plug-and-play experience, and in general, they'll save you from the headaches and mistakes we see dozens of people a year coming here to get help fixing.

 

I'm pretty sure that guy with the 03 just removed the plastic baffle and mounted his speakers in the hole left behind.

 

I think he drilled the screw mounting holes though. Can't picture there being some for 6x9 speakers.

 

Probably, but that isn't hard. Here's a pic of the baffle, looks like the bottom may need to be trimmed a bit.

 

Even if so, clearly it'd be an easy retrofit for a 6x9 which will give you a hell of a lot of sound compared to, say, what's there, stock. People laugh at 6x9s, maybe because of the shape, but I've heard properly installed, good quality 6x9s sound better than a crappy 10" sub.

 

They can be unusually loud for sure.

 

I'm kind of wondering if it would cause the door to rattle or not if it were pumping out some decent bass. Guess I won't know till I try it.

 

Honestly, you should be doing two things if you've ever got the door open, especially if you're adding better aftermarket speakers.

1) While the speaker is out, slap a couple slabs of sound deadener on the inside of the door skin, I always keep a box of Noico on-hand.
2) Take some silver tape and re-tape any wires down so they don't rattle/vibrate, you only need to slap a 1" square every couple inches.

The rest of what you do is up to you, but this is what I'd go out of my way to do.

and for any Access Cab owners, you may want to consider addressing the door actuator rods.

 

Well I guess thats better than filling the doors with concrete to increase the mass and lessen the vibration. Not that I would do that.

 

No, no, no...spray foam!

 

Just when I was over my PTSD from working in the shop ....