Crackhead resurrection

So I'll go ahead and ask, since you've got access to at least some parts trucks, why not just yoink the exhaust off a donor truck? Either the sections that're butchered on yours, or everything front to back? Surely used, take-off can't be that spendy? Cats are usually cut off on our JY trucks before or not long after they hit the yard, but maybe you'll get luckier where you are.

 

I looked at them when I was down south at the yard... Junkyard exhausts were in much rougher shape than mine...

 

I mean, I didn't take any pictures but there wasn't a section of exhaust on either of the two V8 trucks at the yard that were hole-less. I'm talking about good sized rust holes and shit.

 

I'll keep eyes peeled. I did see an AC parts truck pop up in Spartanburg SC yesterday (but 3.4). Piqued my curiosity, but some bits I'd find intriguing were taken already.

https://columbia.craigslist.org/pts/d/spartanburg-2003-toyota-tundra-access/7428036857.html

 

This is a snip from the wiring diagram showing the oxygen sensors.


I know you're following the FSM to check things out, but have you considered tracing the wiring back to ensure that something hasn't been compromised?
It looks like the red wires all splice at "I8" and the brown ones all splice at "I9" that are both up inside the passenger side dash. And the other two wires route through junction connector IE1 on their way to the main ECM (also located up in the passenger dash). If you pull things apart to get to the ECM, get some help and at least check resistance on the two wires running from the ECM to the O2 sensor to make sure there's isn't a fault in those two.



You can pull down the full wiring diagram here:
https://www.tundras.com/attachments/2000-tundra-ewd367u-pdf.543919/
The wiring diagram showing the oxygen sensors is on page 70 of that document.

 

Thanks for this @RainMan_PNW, I've traced the wiring outside the cabin as far up as I could without taking things apart. All looks good there.

I am unashamed to say I will need help decipher some of this electrical mumbo jumbo going forward, and to help me positively identify the correct wires as I am working alone. Everyone else here is too sick to come outside...

I have pulled the glove box apart, and think I have found IE1. Gray connector?


What I'm understanding is that you want me to ohm out the oxygen sensors at the ECM through the wiring harness, yes?

The I7 to I15 splice joints will be a much harder venture to get to as they are between the heater core, and the blower motor. I am willing to pull these items to get to them as a last resort.

ECM picture.


Two connector picture. IE1 IE2

 

Picture of splice joints.

 

While the battery was disconnected I decided to go ahead and replace the airbag module.
Pulled the old one. It was funky and covered in a thick layer of dust.



The part numbers are off by one digit at the end of the number.
One from my truck is 89170-0C010.
One from Flea-Bay is 89170-0C011

@empty_lord will this cause any issues when I hook the battery back up?

 

Yeah - I wouldn't mess with trying to dig out the splice points. Those will be all wrapped up and hard to do anything with anyway.
Here is a picture of IE1 with the corresponding pins numbers (the numbers are when you are looking at the open face of the connector, not the side the wires enter into it).



Looking at the wiring diagram, the portion of IE1 that is mounted to the dashboard frame is the one that routes out to the oxygen sensor. Pin 9 there corresponds with the Red/Yellow "HT" wire at the sensor. Pin 14 corresponds to the Black "OX" wire at the sensor. The Red wire (+B) at the sensor is also routed through IE1 at pin 1 (this is on page 69 of the the wiring diagram). Finally, the brown wire (E1) at the sensor does not go directly through IE1, but instead routes to the "Data Link Connector 1" that is located in the engine bay:

On that connector (D1), that brown wire is pin 3


If you put a multimeter set to measure ohms and connect a lead on each end of those routes, you should get a measurement close to zero, which will at least confirm the wires aren't broken/damaged somewhere along that run.

In theory, you should already be good on the +B and the HT wires because you have tested those per the FSM and gotten a voltage reading across them (per post #1563). So it's just confirming there are no discontinuities in the brown and the black wires.

For reference, this is the EWD image from page 69 that shows the continuation of the red and brown wires from page 70 that has the oxygen sensors on it.


Finally, at your ECM, the connector that has that sensor connecting to it is E4 (which should be the SECOND FROM THE RIGHT in your picture).

Pin 8 is the Red/Yellow wire from the sensor
Pin 18 is the black wire from the sensor
Pin 5 is a green wire coming from the above mentioned Data Link Connector in the above image from page 69

 

Check parts.Toyota.com to see if it supersedes or not

 

Ok. One thing hopefully taken care of today. Thanks for the direction.


Now to see if I can get my tiny corona brain around @RainMan_PNW's directions. Thank you both for taking the time for me.

 

It's all good. Trying to explain how the wiring diagrams work would be better done in a video or in person...both of which I don't have the means to really do.

 

Okay, after looking at this for a little while I realized inwas hungry and wasn't thinking. Ate some food, and then looked at it again. Got some readings for you. Initially I was doing all of the IE1 testing with the ECM unplugged which had me confused as to why I was only getting partial readings.








I am working on getting readings from E4 pins. Originally, I was testing those with the ECM completely unhooked, and will try to get readings between D1 pin 5 and the pins you mentioned on this connector with only E4 unhooked this time

 

The only thing I could get to read was pin 8 on the E4 connector. Here is my reading for that.



It could be because my multimeter test leads are too big to fit in the connector so I was doing everything the ghetto way...



Any reccomendations on how to get an accurate reading are welcome @RainMan_PNW thank you for your time... and let me know if I tested everything the way you explained....

 

Sorry - my instructions weren't very clear. Sometimes I assume people can read my mind.

The Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 connector is H4.


We want to check continuity (measure ohms) on the following. In all cases, the measured ohms should be very low.

H4 Pin 3 to IE1 Pin 14 (this is OX reading to the ECM)
H4 Pin 4 to D1 Pin 3 (this is the E1 signal back to the Data Link Connector)
H4 Pin 2 to IE1 Pin 1 (this is battery power to the sensor)
H4 Pin 1 to IE1 Pin 9 (this is HT signal to the ECM)
D1 Pin 8 to IE1 Pin (This is TE1 signal from Data Link Connector to ECM)

I seriously doubt the need to check the wiring from IE1 to the ECM itself - they are so close to each other there's a low probability of anything being broken there. But, if you did want to, then the checks would be:
IE1 Pin 14 to E4 Pin 18 (black wire, OX signal to ECM)
IE1 Pin 9 to E4 Pin 8 (red/yellow wire, HT signal to ECM)
IE1 Pin 16 to E4 Pin 5 (green wire, TC/TE signal to ECM)

 

Just replied with more clear instructions on what to check.

For testing those tiny connectors - do you have any CAT5 or CAT6 wire laying around? It's 24AWG solid solid wire, which you can strip about 3/8" long and stab into those female sockets on those tiny little connector holes. Nothing ghetto about using a smaller wire to stab into the socket to get a reading...it won't be enough to change the reading for the purpose we're looking at.

 

It's okay Casey. I do the same thing sometimes... I will get warm and then check all these soon. Maybe tomorrow.

This methodology makes more sense to me anyway.

Can you give me a list just like above for the other three oxygen sensors?

 

Sure thing. Give me a few.

I don't know shit about the rest of this stuff - I can figure out wires pretty easy, but all the rest is not my experience or skill. I did stumble across this article while trying to understand what the different wires are on the O2 sensors:
https://triscan.dk/en/news/be-aware-oxygen-sensor-error-messages-especially-wideband-sensors

Looks like the +B and HT are there to heat up the sensor. The E1 (brown) wire is actually a ground as I trace it out. And so the O2 reading itself it sent via the black wire.

 

Summarizing the above stuff into one spot.
Combined image of the two pages of the wiring diagram:


Connector Names:
Heated O2 Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 = H5
Heated O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 = H3
Heated O2 Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2 = H6
Heated O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 = H4

(note that the "Sensor 1" positions have a different shape connector)

Data Link Connector 1 = D1


Junction Connector from Engine Compartment to Instrument/Cab = IE1


ECM Connectors = E3, E4, E5, E6, and E7


Location of Engine Compartment connectors (shows O2 sensor locations and D1 connector)


ECM Connector Locations in cab (highlighted are the V8 ones)


Junction Connector location in the cab


Checking Circuits for continuity (no shorts in the wiring means low ohm reading)
On ALL the O2 Sensors, PIN 2 (red wire) can be checked to IE1 PIN 1 (they are all spliced together, this is power for the heater/sensor)
On ALL the O2 Sensors, PIN 4 (brown wire) can be checked to FRAME (ground) or to D1 PIN 3 (they are all spliced together, this is ground)
H3 PIN 1 (green/yellow) check to E6 PIN 4 (O2 Sensor Heater)
H4 PIN 1 (red/yellow) check to IE1 PIN 9 (O2 Sensor Heater)
H5 PIN 1 (yellow) check to E6 PIN 3 (O2 Sensor Heater)
H6 PIN 1 (yellow) check to IE1 PIN 8 (O2 Sensor Heater)
H3 PIN 3 (black) check to E6 PIN 12 (O2 Sensing LEFT)
H4 PIN 3 (black) check to IE1 PIN 14 (O2 Sensing LEFT)
H5 PIN 3 (white) check to E6 PIN 11 (O2 Sensing RIGHT)
H6 PIN 3 (white) check to IE1 PIN 17 (O2 Sensing RIGHT)
D1 PIN 8 (green) check to IE1 PIN 16 (TC/TE Signal from Data Link Connector 1 to ECM - not exactly sure what this is but it's in the circuit)

OPTIONAL circuits to check from IE1 to the ECM (short route, not likely an issue)
IE1 PIN 16 (green) check to E4 PIN 5 (TC/TE from Data Link Connector 1)
IE1 PIN 8 (yellow) check to E4 PIN 7 (HT to Bank 2 Sensor 2)
IE1 PIN 9 (red/yellow) check E4 PIN 8 (HT to Bank 1 Sensor 2)
IE1 PIN 17 (white) check to E4 PIN 27 (OX from Bank 2 Sensor 2)
IE1 PIN 14 (black) check to E4 PIN 18 (OX from Bank 1 Sensor 2)

OK - I think that's all of it.

Most important to remember is that the pin number is when you are looking at the open end of the connector (not where the wires enter into the back).

 

for future diagnosis. for the love of all thats holy, BACKPROBE the connectors.. shoving things in the front of the connectors can lead to pin-fit issues.. and those are the WORST to figure out

 

Well I didn't get around to testing yesterday, and it's snowing today. So no testing done...


Plugged up the ECM, and then hooked up the battery hoping I wouldn't hear a big ass pop from replacing the airbag sensor assembly...
Thankfully I didn't. Fired right up like old times.


Pulled up live data on the engine. Still not reading B1 S2.

 

Noah I hope you get some snow to play in. Watch for falling trees(widowmakers) though!

 

Not sure how much I'm gonna get to play. Debating in getting a room in town where I work. Unsure of the penalty of weather related incidents, but after being out of work for a week and then being out again... not sure I want to find out what the consequences would be.

Certainly looking like it'd be fun though!



Went ahead and buttoned up the glove box on crackie.

 

Well I decided about three hours ago to book a room. Left out about 30 minutes later.



I had to stop at onr point to clean the ice off my wiper blades, and get the powder off the rear glass. This is the Natcher. Typically these are paved first. I've seen at least three plot trucks off the road and one upside down


Minus P0125 which I could not care less about during this event, the truck is performing flawlessly. Can't wait till I can get this rig dialed in!

 

https://youtu.be/7eoLpicwQN8

 

This is how I know you don't get snow often here you just keep driving, turn the wipers on low, roll the window down, reach out and snap them against the windshield until they're clear.

 

I can't reach the passengers side which has the worst accumulation, but yes. Snow events are a rarity. The last one was last February.

 

Bah you don't need to see out that side.

 

But I need the arms to wipe. That dude was frozen solid to the cowl ice.

 

Looks like f'ing fun!