What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

I put in a starter, ona. 5.7 with 4wd and it's a northern rusty truck.

 

There was a video somewhere lol. You will have to wire both the puddle and auto fold. Totally doable.

 

Nope, hasn't done it again since. No clue.

 

My 2011 SR5 had the heated/power adjust mirrors. When I upgraded them the turn signals were pre-wired, but I had to wire in the puddle lights, the power fold, and the auto darkening. Power fold requires the non-memory mirror switch and the auto darkening requires the auto darkening windshield mounted rear view mirror which controls the side mirror darkening change.

 

Here’s the diy video

https://youtu.be/W1H47F2KP3Q

 

One seat done. 4 more to go but my hands are crying so the next seat might wait until this weekend.

 

Disabled the TPMS light....I'll have to wait for it to get cold again to see if it works.

 

I got a deal on a set of Bridgestone duelars A/Ts that I just couldn’t pass up on a while back, but man I absolutely hated them, no traction, slick as glass in wet conditions, and I had enough lol
Took me forever between a set of coopers AT3s and wild peaks but you just can’t beat a set of coopers man, these ride great, smooth, grip is outstanding in my 2WD, couldn’t be more pleased

my own opinion of course lol

 

Which way did you do it? (I’ve got the forum posts saved; but would just like to see which way you went with it)

 

Me too!

 

I am in the process of installing new Fox 2.5 DSC coilovers, rear 2.5 DSC shocks, and the Icon RXT leaf pack. Coilover install has been a pain needless to say.

 

Sweet! I’ve got Fox on mine and they are awesome. Didn’t spring for the DSC though. Would be interested to see what the height in the back looks like with the RXT leaf pack and how you like the new leafs when they are in. Mine are getting a little tired at 125k and thinking I’ll replace them soon.

 

Did another complete xmsn fluid change @ 170K miles with 12½ qts Amsoil Signature fluid. First time I did it was @ 85K miles, 3½ years ago.

First time I did this, there was a distinct difference in color between old and new fluid as I was making the change. This time, I couldn't tell any difference in color at all.

 

Raptor lights installed.

F250 camper cap (it fits with a little help)
Prinsu roof rack
Firestone air ride
Braking system
Track fx trail lights

 

Where did you get the lights and how did you install them? Show me about the topper to get it to fit

 

I got the lights here for $40.
https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/sidemarker-lights-35-046-amber?variant=20167221837927

Installed by drilling holes into the grill and using small 1" L brackets to mount. I ran red wire to the ignition fuse and used a fuse tap for power. I ran the ground to the body. That's it. It probly took 3 hours total. The holes and measuring, splicing wires....all that.

The truck cap I kinda lucked out on. It was on FB for sale and I wasn't sure if it would fit and it was tight before I shaved some off. It's kinda hard to explain. But it does and will work.

 

Not that I’m in the market for tfose(just replaced transmission) but what kind of height do you get? Do you need new ucas?

 

I'll definitely let you know, still working on the front right now when time permits.

 

From what I have read, you will get about 3" at the minimum setting, these are the extended travel versions so a UCA is required. I have a pair of JBA UCAs.

 

I too have the extended travel with camburg UCA’s. Best I can tell I am about 3.5” in the front with 5ish threads showing.

 

That's a very strange definition of "it works". I hope that thing is extra bolted on!

 

The way that the (F250) camper cap works/ fits is that the inner liner of the camper cap folds down into the side walls of the truck bed. It was a bit tight toward the front of the cap where it folded in. I cut about 8 inches of the front sides of the folded in part and it allowed the cap to sit flat on the side rails. I assure you. It's not going anywhere. Look at the pictures. It's Fits great.

 

Cool! Sounds like an adventure

 

I stripped back some of the yellow insulation and cut, stripped and connected the light bluish/green wire to it.
Thery are next to each other.
I can't find the thread right now for some reason.

The wire is very small, and a razor knife will cut thru them very easily.
There is also a small strand of solid wire, that seems to be stainless steel, in among the strands in the blueish/gree wire.
None of my stripers worked on the wire it is so small.

 

Wired in a pair of rock lights with a pin switch to light up the engine bay when the hood opens.

 

What wheels do you have? Kinda like those

 

What did you use to black out your wheels?

 

dunno, they were like that when I bought the truck last year. I assumed it was OEM. They’re definitely painted and very old but no chips which seems impossible.

 

Installed a high-speed wireless MagSafe charger for my iPhone (12 or 13 or later support MagSafe). It’s a good place because it doesn’t block a vent and I can easily reach it. It’s a convenient second screen for CarPlay for running Waze (for speed traps) or more directly controlling music.



The charger: https://getspiegel.com/products/wireless-car-charger





Here’s where it gets complicated. I wanted high-speed charging and I wanted to hide the power cable as much as possible. I planned to run it through the blank button right above where I mounted it but discovered it’s not just a button but an entire electronic module, so for now I’m just sneaking the USB-C cable up from under the dash.

High-speed charging requires enough power that they recommend running a wire directly from the battery, and others who tapped an existing fuse found that it blew the fuse. However, I wanted it to switch off with the ignition. So, I had to install a relay, which was easy but something I had never done before.

Anyway, power from the battery to this fuse block:



through the firewall to this relay:

$19 TRUE MODS 6 Pack 4-Pin 12V Bosch Style Fused Relay Switch Kit [Interlocking Harness Socket Holder] [14 AWG Hot Wires] [SPST] [30 Amp] 12 Volt Automotive relays with Fuse for Auto Cars

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NBAO1SA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

the relay is switched on with this fuse tap:



And the relay powers this USB-C charger which I’ve zip-tied under the dash:

$15 56W USB C Car Charger Socket, Ouffun Aluminum Metal 12V/24V Multiple USB Outlet PD 20W USB-C and Dual QC3.0 Ports with Power Switch USB Port 12V Socket for Car RV Boat Marine Truck Golf Motorcycle

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B092M6S98V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title



I’ve been using it for a couple of weeks and it’s fantastic. It pivots to any angle and can rotate horizontal or vertical. Charges fast and convenient without having to clip it in; magnets just grab it. It holds the phone over heavy bumps. It holds best with a MagSafe phone case but without a case it’s fine, it just rotates a bit on bumpy roads because the back of the iPhone is so slippery.

It works well enough that you probably don’t need CarPlay (though it is nice to have the second screen within reach).