Power Steering leak

My original fittings looked like yours. They were very difficult to get off, so I assumed they would be difficult to get back on.

The sensation I had with all three of the new fittings in question is that they'd be pretty resistant, but doable, and then I'd hit a brick wall and not be able to turn them at all. All of the fittings are about 75% seated.

But no weeping, I checked twice today after driving.

All that said, I'll talk to a professional. That was my gut feeling.

I'll update the thread when I know more.

 

That copper washer doesn't belong there -- it goes on the banjo fitting on the other end of that line. And those two connections don't look like they're on all the way. I had to look at Rock Auto to get a pic of the type of connection used at that location.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...03,steering,power+steering+pressure+hose,7320

It's a double flare with an o-ring.




So the o-ring makes the seal. Yours are sticking out too far.

 

You likely don’t have the flare seated fully. Loosen the fitting and jiggle the line while pushing fitting in to ensure the flare seats correctly.

 

I'm sure you know this, but be very careful when tightening those lines at the rack. Easy to strip and a bad deal if you do. Keep backing them off and trying again until it feels right to avoid cross threading. Good luck and good on you getting it fixed up, you are on the home stretch!

 

Little trick I learned working in a bike shop as a kid after being the FNG at the shop who cross-threaded pedals one too many times and the old-timers at the shop got sick of having to clean up the threads. You can practice this tip on a nut and bolt right now to see what I mean if you've never had someone show you this trick.

Get your nut, set on the end of your standard-thread bolt, slowly spin it counterclockwise (lefty-loosey) few rotations on the end of the bolt and notice at one point it "drops" or "clicks" as you reach the end of the bolt's threading. That's your indicator you're in the exact spot you need to be to start threading the nut onto the bolt. Change your nut rotation to clockwise right after that click/drop and it should slide right onto the bolt threads like butter.

Best part is, this trick works blind. You get a feel for it. Just know some fittings, especially brass stuff for air/liquid plumbing, can be reverse-thread, so you need to adjust for it to work.

 

To bleed the system, have the front wheels in the air, fill it up, turn the steering wheel lock to lock with the engine *off*. This will work most of the air out if you do it repeatedly and keep and eye on the air bubbles and fluid level in the reservoir. Keeps you from burning up a pump.

 

Many thanks to those who've chimed in.

I finally got back under the truck today to re-check things out. I removed the old fittings to see if I could re-seat or better tighten them.
The fittings appear to be a different size than the ones I removed. I still had the old part laying around so I decided to compare them.




Sorry for the bad photos, it was difficult to get a good angle. In the first photo (the fitting that's the lower of the two), there's a clear difference in the number of threads and physical length of the fitting. The second photo, slightly less difference but still a difference.

Here's the exact part I bought:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7659212&pt=7320&jsn=1

Perhaps it's simple, and I bought the wrong part. Perhaps there's something I'm missing.

Any advice is welcome. And I fully intend to take this to a professional if I can't hunt down a simple replacement.

 

Did you check with rockauto and the manufacturer that you have the right part? Looks like a clear discrepancy to me.

 

I entered my VIN on ToyoDIY and got this:

https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_200412_TOYOTA_TUNDRA_UCK41L-PRBLKA_4503.html

Found this part number: 44410-0C081

Searched that number on a couple of sites (partsgeek, rockauto, parts.toyota), and bought the part off Rock Auto.

 

I would make a query with Sunsong as to why their fitting is different in size and # threads/inch showing them the photo.

 

I think you're comparing the wrong two connections. This is a screen grab of the link you sent from RA. This shows pic #2 of 4 in their description. Notice the two fittings are different, just like the ones in your pic. Are you sure you have the hoses installed in the correct place?



EDIT: I just realized it's the same pic I posted earlier in this thread.

 

Unfortunately, yes I'm sure.

In the whole mess of hoses, there are only a few connections, and these are the only ones that could possibly fit where they are.

I'll reach out to Rock Auto and/or the manufacturer to see what's up.

 

The fitting your using appears to have the same threads pitch and size. the flare is still seated in the part it goes too which is why it looks odd. It looks to be Just a different style fastener than the oem with more threads and less wrench head.

Toyota likely used a special fitting that worked well on the assembly line when quick and accurate install matters. For a production associate with limited time for their process that large socket head makes sense. For a garage mechanic the standard fitting with the smaller area for a wrench is fine as you don’t have a 45 second cycle to finish your process.

If it threads in like a normal bolt would for at least two turns before it begins snugging you’re fine.

 

Did you get this figured out? I’m looking at getting the same part.

 

Terribly sorry I didn't see this sooner...

I got everything figured out, but it was costly for me. I ended up stripping the threading at the pump, got totally discouraged, and took it to a dealer who charged me an arm and a leg to get it fixed.

I ended up using the Toyota part, which fit and cost more.

I tried, I failed, I spent a ton, don't be like me.

 

So long story short, buy the OEM part so you don't dick up the threads?

This would be the 3rd time now I've read that from someone on here

 

The OEM lines are $400+ so that’s why people try to save money with aftermarket. I was hoping to do the same with replacing the high pressure line in the spring.

 

In my specific instance, the aftermarket part was not to blame, I was. However, there's a decent chance that I wouldn't have the made the same mistake had I just had the right part to begin with.

Many hours of work in very cold temperatures + my inexperience were the ultimate causes of my mistake.

But your point is taken clearly, and will be how I proceed from now on.

 

Was genuinely asking, definitely not trying to make an ass out of you.

But you're not wrong either, saving money on non-OEM and getting burned does tend to be a theme

 

I installed the REIN PSH0519 power steering lines.
What I found is that the bends from the fittings to the rack were a little off.
I solved my issue by removing the bolts to the rack, and both tie rod ends, and resting the entire rack on jack stands.
I could then position the rack to line up with the fittings and they would screw in easily.
Each fitting required repositioning of the rack.
Once both fittings were on tight, I swung the rack back into it's proper place and bolted in down. The lines were touching each other now so I used a platic wedge to force a gap between the lines.
To get the rack and the lines to match up took quite a bit of angling the rack away from it's proper position, but once the lines were connected the rack can be used as a lever to get the lines to bend.
With this information I hope others can be successful with the Sunsong option.

As an alternative you could connect the fittings to the rack first before any other mounting hardware.
Then you could reposition the lines to help you get the fittings to work.

 

Maybe for future people trying aftermarket lines, it may help to remove the old ones and carefully match up the bends, tweak them if needed so they're exact before trying to install? Just a suggestion.

I haven't had too many issues with aftermarket power steering lines so I probably wouldn't spring for OEM in this case.