What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Might take another trip to TN tomorrow to go to that junkyard.

Specifically looking for doors, and complete tailgate.

I need door hinges too. Anyone have any advice for removing the wiring from the body of the donor truck? Would like to practice doing it the right way if there is a right way.

Also, if I find good, non broken manual window doors, can I convert them to power window? Is it possible?

 

@empty_lord @lsaami

 

the doors are exactly the same. you just need to wire up the power windows. or if your lucky like me, the trucks already wired and you just need the door harnesses

 

If you have to pull anywhere, it's still attached. Take screwdrivers, 8, 10, 12mm sockets, a sharp utility and and good wire cutters and precision or small wire cutters (to cut tape and plastics - not wires)

 

Crackie already has power windows. I was mainly asking because I don't know how to unclip the door harness if there is a clip. What is involved with that?

Don't want to create unnecessary splices

It's a you pull so thanks for the reccomendations. Any advice on door harness clips reccomended

 

No I mean If you have to tug on wires, they are attached to something that needs to be released.

 

Unclip in the kick panel and take the door boot with the harness and everything downstream.

 

Perfect. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Dave!

 

just unplug the harness from tbehind the kick panels

 

Ah, instructions say to use different wires than I T’d. They also say driver side only. I really don’t want to run this to the other side since I did a nice gasket on the plug. Unless someone can locate those grommets which feed under the seats? Anyone know that part number?

I’ll run the T over to driver side in the spot instructed and re test

 

Yup @KingSequioa007 and it goes without saying (though I'll say it) make sure to check/locktite/torque the other side too.

 

Is the tailgate lock thing a reversing polarity actuator? Like if you hook the wires up one way it extends, and the other way it retracts?

If so, you won’t find wires to tap. You have to add a relay and a few diodes. Search for DEI doc 1070.

See if anything here is of any help. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=85910

Edit: I now see that you have a 2002. Try this. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=75687

 

It's pop-n-lock and specifically for 2000-2006 Tundra so I assume they would instruct or advise if additional parts would be needed? Maybe I'm naive?

The one I have is an older model, so it could be toast, the newer ones look like they have weatherpack connectors even and a slightly different design:

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Pop-and-Lock-Locks-PAL8500.aspx

 

Jeebus.
That's alarmingly similar to what I found last night on the Tundra.
The tundra was on the alignment rack here at work last Thursday. The tech working on it (I was still working) couldn't get the seized L tie rod to move, so the alignment was aborted part-way through.

I didn't consider that my dude doesn't work on trucks regularly, nor was I available to oversee/watch. He didn't torque the LCA bolts tight enough. One was loose enough that the arm was moving when I'd turn to either steering lock, the other three were loose enough to turn without much pressure on the wrench. JFC. I've been driving the truck like this for several days. Probably drove 200 miles like that. Granted, I think it got worse as time went on. But fork.
I think he's colluding with Kelly and my BIL. (life insurance provider)

nosoninjaedit:
I replaced both tie rods inner and outer last night.

 

door harness connections are behind the kick panels. 2 screws and unclip. I’m assuming your existing door harnesses are good? If not, double check the connectors. My 00 had a different plug than my 01 parts truck.

 

Crackies door harness works, but I've never had the door panel off to inspect for rubs or splices. Will have to verify. Thanks for the heads up on different connectors. Did you have to swap harnesses or did you repin the connector?

 

Pops drove the V6 to work today so no activity there.

Called that junkyard. They have a 2000, a 2002, and 2003. Doors are priced at about 45 each. Tailgates are priced at about 50 each.

They couldn't tell me what body styles the trucks were, and wouldn't send pictures of the parts I asked about so guess I'm driving down south. Boom or bust. Thank God for a 2-2-3 shift. I can actually do shit now!

Maybe I can find a good bed for crackie too. I'd have to rent a damn uhaul trailer...

 

Nah just flip it upside down and with the tailgate opening to the cab and put it a little off center. Or go full crazy and pull the old bed before you drive down lol

 

Swap it in the parking lot and sell em the old one.

 

Wow! That's crazy. That's what's scary about trusting anyone working on our trucks. I've replaced every Suspension piece on my Sequoia over the years and when I get my yearly alignments I always ask my alignment guy (who I trust) to double check if anything looks lose or broken. These guys are also alignment and frame specialists with over 30 years of experience.

 

When i got my motorcycle back from the shop i went through and double checked everything. I wont put my life in their hands. But all was fine or id have gone up there and thrown a tantrum.

 

3 other people are going with me so I will not be driving crackie unfortunately. I did pull the pass side kick panel off to check the plugs. Squaw en route

I didn't pull the driver side, but I assume they use the same connector?




Now, if I find a different year than 2000... can I Swap door harnesses and make it work, or would I have to repin the donor door, and pin these plugs on?

 

You could still make it work with a smaller bed. Just leave the tailgate down and it'll be 8ft.

I'm also drinking free booze at the SkyClub at LaGuardia so take my ideas with a grain of salt.

EDIT: Just saw the Squaw mention, see previous statement

 

I just swapped the 00 harness to the 01 door. All the other connectors were the same.

 

10-4. Tedious, but not difficult?

 

What's wrong with your bed? I thought only the rocker panels were in rough shape.

 

Bed sides are dented up and shit. Bed rails are beat to hell. Rednecks drilled holes in the bed floor to mount something in the past but since been removed before my ownership.

Expanding foam in the wheel wells to stop rust....

 

Seems better than new!

 

It snowed so I drove her to work.

 

Custom flatbed could be sick but with the shell I guess it’s decided already.

I wish RCI made something for our longbeds.