2006 Toyota Tundra

Just bought a 2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab Limited. My very first truck.
First of all did I pay too much? 11k and has 177k miles. Person who owned it was a mechanic at Mercedes Benz. I cant ask him any question because he passed.
Secondly what things should i replace first? Spark Plugs and all the fluids?
Also any advice for me would be good.

Thanks in advance

 

I think you did OK on the deal..
177K miles just getting broke in..

Maybe get some of these, depending on how many you are missing.....
Part # 56069440

T69440 4X Sequoia Tundra 03-07 Wheel Center Hub Caps Silver 56069440 FOR Toyota | eBay'


Looks nice.
Nice color too.
Makes me miss my 2005 double cab.



Welcome to the forum..

 

Depends on the condition of the frame. Depends on when the last TB/WP was.

 

Congrats and welcome from Gettysburg... Nice1st gen Rig

 

Welcome aboard,, nice looking truck (from the picture),, looks clean. Good job!!

 

If the timing belt looks good and the frame isn't in bad shape, I think you did OK on pricing.

First thing you should check is any maintenance records, before you attempt any maintenance. You may find some by signing up at Toyota's site - go here and click the JOIN NOW button to add your truck and review any dealership service records: https://www.toyota.com/owners/my-vehicle/vehicle-specification. You may also want to confirm in there whether there are any open/unfinished recalls, like on the airbags.

If there are no records regarding the last timing belt change, because the owner was a mechanic and may've done it himself, look in the engine bay for a timing belt change sticker, often people will put it on the air intake tube, listing the last timing belt change. If there's no sticker, you can pull back the cover, take a CLEAR photo of the timing belt, and someone here can tell you if it's in need of change. If so, and you need a shop to do it, you're looking at $1200-1400. But it's not something you don't want to do, because if it snaps, you're looking at a new engine ($2k-4k). General rule of thumb is to try and replace your belt every 10yr/100k miles, although Toyota's recommendation is a bit shorter, I think 9yr/90k, some people have managed to go double that - I personally don't like to gamble.

Other than that, be prepared for possible front suspension work. You may want to check a couple of plugs just to see whether they're healthy before you change them, if "iridium" they may 10s of thousands of miles of life remaining. Peace of mind is nice, but I'd check my fluids before changing anything with hopes that a mechanic would've taken tip-top shape of their vehicle... But I also know sometimes "the cobbler's kids have no shoes".

 

Welcome from AZ

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)!

 

Looking at the photo, it appears that he's in California, which would certainly negate the frame concerns..
X3 on the timing belt. I would assume since the previous owner was a wrencher, he probably took care of it, but you know what happens when you assume....

 

Man good thing you brought up timing belt. I thought I had a chain. After research I see it has a chain. Just looked up a youtube video on how to check the belt. Seems pretty straight forward.

 

Welcome aboard!

 

Good guess. How can you tell from looking from the photo you knew it was California? lol

 

The Tile roof was the dead giveaway. Also, the car in the garage appears to have a Sunset plate..
Basically just a good guess...

Oh, and welcome to the club!

 

Yeah, that's the one elephant in the room that'll bite you in the ass. Interference engine, that belt snaps, bye-bye engine. The other thing to be aware of is pink milkshake. The way the OEM radiator is designed in these trucks, it's possible for certain models to have coolant mix with transmission fluid and vice-versa. Can cause shifting problems. If you're running an aftermarket radiator, or your truck has a separate transmission cooler, nothing to worry about.

On the timing belt inspection, 2-3 minute process. You can either pop out a couple 10mm on the passenger side cover or driver side cover to check the belt. If it's still matte with no visible cracks, you're golden, keep checking every 10k/1yr. If it's mildly glossy, I'd consider that half-life-ish. If it's glossy glossy, you should start thinking about replacing, and if glossy with visible cracks, you're on borrowed time.

Since we know you're in a sunny state, just a cosmetic warning. During the years of the 1st gen trucks, Toyota was only doing clearcoated paint jobs on the metallic trucks (base metallic coat + clear coat over it). Non-metallic trucks got a single stage (clear and color mixed, single coat). I personally suspect they may've have an issue with the clear they were using because clearcoat failure on the metallic trucks, especially the red/blue/green colors, was poor. Horizontal surfaces like the roof and hood tended to peel first, common spots being where the hood meets headlights, where the roof meets windshield, where the door meets the roof, and top of the fender flares. If you're not already bubbling and hazing in those spots, be sure to keep those areas well-waxed with a UV-blocking wax or coating. I have no reco for you on product, that's like bringing up guns, religion, and politics in one sentence at Thanksgiving family reunion.

 

PS - you'll see a huge night driving experience increase if you replace your headlight housings, yours look like ass, no amount of sanding, polish and clearcoat will fix that. Removal is easy, there's a simple trick. Don't rely on YouTube videos for help on that, they'll tell you to pry out the blinker. Not necessary. Once you get the turn signal bolts out, just stand next to your front tire and gently 'palm slap' the blinker housing forward. The rest is cake. Long phillips head screwdriver to adjust level after it's all bolted in using the provided adjustment hole.

 

Dont want to start any arguments if it anything like the Harley Davidson forums. But what Spark Plugs and Oil Filter do you guys recommend. I left out what type of oil because that usually starts the long argument lol But I will be going full synthetic.

 

OEM filters for air & oil are king. It's one thing Toyota crushes the other manuf'ers on. Convinced it's part of the reason their drivetrains last so long. Inexpensive, effective.

Most people I see are plugging iridium plugs here, but don't buy on fleabay / amazoan, counterfeit-central. Buy from a trustworthy source.

Oil, most people are on the Mobil1 wagon here from what I've seen. Coolant: Toyota red.

 

Oil filter PN for OEM is

$32 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1/2 Case (QTY 5)

90915-YZZD3 (if the later 4.7s are the same as the early)

 

I had been buying my OEM oil filters from Walmart, but they upped the price to $7 and I found out if I order online from my dealership they are $4.

For spark plugs either denso or NGK, just don't buy from Amazon. NGK has two different iridium plugs, one is a 30,000 mile and the other is 70,000 (I think)

 

Do you guys use OEM shocks? I dont plan to go off roading i just use to drive around town. Any cheaper route that any went and was happy? Also, what kind of stereo and speakers did you guys upgrade to? I miss having Bluetooth to steam my music or take calls.

 

Lots of people use Bilstein shocks for what you're looking to do. Either the 4600 or 5100 series. You can re-use your stock coils with them, I would start looking into those. I don't have first-hand experience with the Bilsteins, but there are plenty of 1st Gens on here that like them for street applications.

 

I recommend the Bilstein 4600, or KYB gas A just, KYB’s are cheaper and they are great too.

 

Welcome, I have an 06 and it has been a great truck, hope you enjoy yours.

 

I'm torn between the Billy 4600 and 5100. 4600 because Im not running anything super oversized (P265/70r17) and don't tow heavy loads, mostly other tires and smaller equipment. Plus it's only a Gen 1 DC 2wd so I don't see a lot of off roading, just typical unmaintained dirt road.
5100 because I might change my mind and if I could lessen the rake just by an inch or inch and a half, it's well worth it.

Only concern is ride quality on the 5100, that's the only thing that's keeping me from going all in.

 

Also, welcome from AZ!

 

Plan to lift or level? Go 5100. Just need an OEM+ upgrade or replacement? Go 4600 and save yourself some coin.

 

I've heard no complaints on the ride quality of the 5100, especially when compared to the 4600.

 

In today's market with those miles you did good.