Crackhead resurrection

Gonna have to start calling crackie the truck of theseus.

 

If crackie is the theseus... what would be the minotaur, or Athens...

 

Obviously, you’re the minotaur, and w. Ky is atherns?

 

So I see the truck slaying Me in the future. Some sort of death scene. SQWUARSHED

 

? I didnt see the movie.

In the metaphysics of identity, the Ship of Theseus is a thought experiment that raises the question of whether an object that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object. The concept is one of the oldest in Western philosophy, having been discussed by Heraclitus and Plato by c. 500–400 BC.

 

I see your point now...

 

Yup. Struggling w/FedEx now. Pretty sure this package is in the woods with a bunch of others. Gifts for the kids. Was going MIA -> ATL. Last stop is often Forest Park, then it's loaded onto the truck and delivered. Some reason, it went back on a truck and an hour north of town, up to Braselton. Guess they realized their mistake, put it back on the truck to go to Forest Park for fulfillment, but hasn't been seen since. Multi-fukkup from these jokers. I have zero doubts it's sitting in a stand of trees somewhere between Braselton and Atlanta. Meh.

 

My VLEDs package was like that. Real bumner. Well, I posted about it in the lunchtable thread sometime back, didn't I?

Anyways, I did eventually receive it after contacting VLEDS. They issued a "trace" (think that's what they called it) with FedUp, and re-sent another package my way. Think they paid for express shipping because it was here much faster than the original estimate was

Based on catext clues, I guess a trace is their way to cancel, and return product to their location?

 

I assume so, based on my conversation with the GME chat support. The person I spoke with said they'd issue a "status check" and "send a new package if needed".

Fulfillment is one side I don't have a lot of insight into. Whenever we ship things out at work, it's usually freight, doesn't work the same way as this little stuff. I imagine it's a lot different for retailers who ship hundreds or thousands of packages per day.

Neither FedEx or UPS likes to pay out on things for regular folks. Like, if something is damaged in transit, the default response to every claim is "insufficient packing" unless you have one of their employees at a a big box store pack it. You can package something the size of a fingernail in 6ft of expanding foam, they'll run over it with the airplane 10 times, then use it as a chock for the airplane wheels before takeoff, then drop it out of the airplane onto the runway, then claim it wasn't packaged sufficiently. They love putting you in a position where you have an option: Eat the loss or pay for a lawyer, and either way you're out of money.

When I've shipped packages and they go lost, every time, I had to wait 2 weeks for them to "attempt to locate", then go through an exhaustive process of forms and procedures to get a refund. They make you work for it, again, see final line of previous paragraph. If they make it hard enough, they turn a loss into a gain.

USPS on the other hand ... every time they've lost something of mine, prompt refund check in the mail. No BS, no hassle. Go online and fill out a form.

 

Lolz if you think delivery men arent pickin’ out their own gifts. Maybe not directly, but let a homie know…

not all, but enough to make a difference.

 

Oh, no doubt that's highly likely what happened here. It's a GME box, games and consoles are at their hottest-possible state the last quarter of the year. I wouldn't doubt if someone south of town at the main depot intentionally misplaced the package based on the box, just to get it up to Braselton so it would be re-routed, maybe via van or something. I'll be honest. I don't mind in this case. I'd rather have someone working for the carrier nab it than some methhead porch pirate from a couple n/hoods over.

 

4WD rear actuator connector.



Transmission temp sensor with matching connector for the harness just in case I need it.



Spare connector on the sensor

 

New temp sensor checks as good if electrical brain maths are working. Room temp currently (70°F.)

 

Pulled crackie out of the tent of pain, and into the driveway. Pre-flight checklist engaged, and checked off.

Quick reward style upgrade to LED with no resistors currently. Need one as no high beams indicator with High dolla VLEDS.





As always, drivers side was routine. Passengers side? It was cracked up like crystal methany. Whoever had this before me used the metal tensioner, and the rubber boot to hold the the headlight bulb in. No pics because was fighting to remove. Then this happened...


Removed headlight, and was able to fish it out.

Then I just happened to notice the top bumper mount on the body was not mounted. Unsure if this is crack-tivities or Toyota. Threads look shiny as if it was done recently. I'd bet Toyota.


Broken bulb tensioner holder...


Unfortunately, crack-tivites begets more crack-tivities on the short term. Used sticky weatherstrip sponges to hold the bulb in place.



Added "torque identifiers" to the nuts/bolt.




The money shot...


Hunted for zipties with no success, but I did find a piece of mig wire from work. One last crack-tivity. Sigh.


Finally, the icing on the cake, the pièce de résistance...



Found that box on the street corner so to speak...

 

omglolzzz

 

I don't get the last two pictures. What are you doing there with that box?

 

Areo mod. Send the air around instead of through. Just like nascar and their grille tape.

 

Well the box definitely helped keep everything a consistent temperature, but I still popped the P0125. Here's 3 minutes worth of live data.

https://youtu.be/TOHPefVEBnU


Think I can start looking at other possibilities besides ATF temperature. Any suggestions on where to start?

 

I always look at the last stuff I touched. Could be a stuck open thermostat, which you just replaced (bad out of the box). Do you have a temp gun to check the inlet and outlet at the radiator to see actual temps? Not sure if you have done this already.

 

was the trans temp sensor to correct p0125?

p0125 is coolant temp not rising fast enough

your vid showed coolant 190, a lil high i assume from cardboard box mod, so I am guessing it is warming normally. Put Intake air temp on your live data simultaneous with coolant. Does IAT seem close to ambient with engine cold? Does IAT rise slightly above ambient with engine running ? I am not sure what trans temp has to do with your issue, maybe I need to read backward a few more posts to catch what you were chasing. But, if IAT sensor is faulty, the ECU will have unrealistic coolant temp expectations. Bad IAT readings can trip a p0125.

 

From the service manual for p0125:
THA < –6.7°C (20°F) 20 min. or more after starting engine

THA is intake air temp. It wants the engine compartment to warm the intake air within 20 minutes. -40 F is open circuit reading, 284 F is short circuit. The 20 minute reading from cold start has to be over 20 F.

EDIT: I think I'm reading that one wrong, but ya get my drift, its looking at IATs do determine what engine temp it wants. So bad IAT confuses the gods. Ithink it wants 68 F after 20 min. I dunno, they leave words and symbols out and shit.

 

Toyota's engineers didn't do the best job of translating the english version. But, here are the three possible descriptors to pop a p0125. Notice each one includes THA readings. Thats intake air temp. Feel free to decode, I may have given you bad advice above, I still have not deciphered entirely what they mean. THW is coolant temp.

If THW < –6.7°C (20°F) or THA < –6.7°C (20°F) 20 min. or more after starting engine, engine coolant temp. sensor value is 20°C (68°F) or less (2 trip detection logic)

If THW –6.7°C (20°F) and THA < –6.7°C (20°F) and 10°C (50°F) at engine start, 5 min. or more after starting engine, engine coolant temp. sensor value is 20°C (46°F) or less (2 trip detection logic)

If THW < 10°C (50°F) and THA < 10°C (50°F) at engine start, 2 min. or more after starting engine, engine coolant temp. sensor value is 20°C (46°F) or less (2 trip detection logic)

 

Is p0125 your only code? MAnual also says, if you get other codes, leave this one for last. It may correct itself when you correct the others.

 

Seems like if I decode a little more its saying on description 3:
if below 50 F coolant and air at start (which seems plausible this week)
then after 2 minutes run time it will not tolerate a reading of 46 F at coolant.

Keep an eye on your real time data. Does your coolant sensor drop out periodically road bumps or vibrations? a loose wire might trip a quick -40 F to +46 F and piss of the ECU gods.

 

Just spit ballin.

 

k ohms equals 9 x 1,000 which means sensor is reading 9,000 which means its out of spec bros.

time for new sensor. liard failed algebraI but still did quik maffs aight??

 

9k is above 79 and below 156k , he looks clean there.

 

fmL

 

Lairds homework: