1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

There's a guitar thread?

 

Pulled the trigger on buying the Milwaukee M12 compact 1/2" impact driver kit (batteries, case and charger) for $220 at Home Depot.

Considering the reliability of UPS/FedEx lately, I'm having it delivered to the store. Hopefully, I won't be disappointed with its performance.

It's either that or setup a 2-stage IR upright compressor in my living room. That might be cool, but I'm not exactly wired for 220V except at my washer/dryer and water heater.

 

you’ll really like the impact tool it makes easy work. i just used mine this weekend on wheels removal doing some fluid bleeds on a honda. i’ve used it on many other things to and it’ll crack anything. never broken a bolt yet as it has a sensor feedback to prevent such things. only negative is the thumb reverse is to easy to switch into forward which isn’t good if you aren’t paying attention.. J.P.

 

Thumb reverse is easy to swap. Sometimes handy, sometimes not. Lol

I've swapped over intentionally, and it still drive the wrong way. Only on the 1/4 hex impact I dropped 60 feet out of a lift though...

 

I'm guessing the 200-250 ft-lbs of torque it produces may not be enough for exhaust manifold bolts, but anything larger in size probably won't fit in the engine compartment, so I'll most likely have to borrow a pneumatic impact wrench instead if/when I choose to tackle that.

 

I have codes for all cylinders misfire, so thats p0300-p0308. I also have a rich code bank 1, p0172.

The truck runs fine 99% of the time. Occasionally it will shut off at low idle, usually about to park it.

I have new fuel filter, new MAF sensor, 8 new platinum plugs, all denso ignition coils (4 brand new to replace cheap chinese ones), clean air K&N filter, and clean throttle body.

I ran my computer to verify the O2 sensors functioning. I got normal sin wave pattern between 0 and 1. I understand that to mean they are working.

I replaced the engine about 5 years ago with a refurb, came with about 50K miles. This is a 2000 Tundra with 190K and I have no idea what may need to be replaced with normal wear and tear. Maybe old vacuum lines? I live in Hawaii, lots of sand, salt and heat. I am second owner.

Anyway I trying to keep this thing solid so any ideas what could make these codes? Maybe failing fuel injectors? Evap. Canister? PCV valve? Fuel Pressure regulator?

 

Step this way sir. https://www.tundras.com/threads/guitar-players-only.19548/

 

Timing? With the engine being swapped out, a bit of a Pandora's box. Everything is suspect due to the missing 50k miles of history for the motor. Who did the engine swap? Maybe they can help shake it out with you.

 

Fuel pressure was my first thought. I think you’re on the right track.

 

I would guess metering or ignition. (air leak or spark plug or COP)
The rich condition is from unburnt fuel. So either the truck is injecting too much (would be reflected in MPG immediately) or it's not consistently able to burn what is injected. (worn plugs or coils...or both)

 

Re: my Jura, randomly stumbled on the invoice while stashing some printed documents, it was (is) a J5 purchased 3/28/2011 as factory refurb. I have a photo somewhere that one of the guys upstairs sent me showing the teardown he did to fully clean it. It was $899 at the time plus $30 shipping. I definitely enjoyed it for a few years.

 

damn you. I need a flathead in my life.

 

A friend recently closed off his garage attic for storage with plywood. The garage is ventilated but the new garage attic is not. Any opinions on the options for

1. add a vent to the exterior (front wall so visible from the street above garage door)
2. Cut a hole into the house attic (which is insulated)

location is inland north county San Diego, some pretty hot summers and a little bit of cold but not severe winter.

 

it should do it and you’ll need a boat load of extensions and wobble bits of all types along with twisty bits the kind that bite and grab in reverse. need special e10 torx bit for the studs.. the big boy milwalkie impact with extensions and wobbles will do it all from the wheel well and out..

 

Another question, speed freak jason mentioned if I do a front locker I should also do new axles up front? And that everyone goes with one specific axle? Anyone have a suggestion there so I can get out ahead of that one? Or should I say screw it to the front locker? Hmm...

 

So I wouldn't need a stud extractor socket if I spin a nut off? An e10 torx will grab it? Interesting.

After I looked at what was involved on a 1A auto video, it doesn't look i could get an impact to every exhaust bolt especially around the motor mount on the drivers side. Seems like more right angles are needed to get in there to the nuts which would require a breaker bar and socket instead. I haven't tried putting together wobble sockets and swivel extensions to make a 90 degree angle though.

Some as you say could be done with a long extension and an impact on the passenger side though.

 

bottom line is be prepared for every combination and then some. buy stuff and return it if you dont use it. some people cut there manifolds off and then remove the bolts which is another trick using a sawzall an special ax milwalkie blade. dangerous.. but faster than motor mount removal..

 

Unless you're planning to go full crawler or have money to burn, I wouldn't even lock the front. Locking the front will just lead to even more 4wd binding and that will lead to broken CVs. Which is probably why he said get new CVs (as spares). I wouldn't bother swapping your CVs if they don't need to be swapped (aren't broken or boots shredded, popping etc.) Unless you're planning to get high angle CVJ CVs to go with long travel suspension. Or at least mid travel with the sway bar removed. Also Napa and a few other autopart stores have lifetime warrantees on their CVs and give discounts on new sets if you bring in a core (or broken CV). I've been running Napa on my truck for about 2 years now with no issues so far and I abuse my shit at least 2 or 3 weekends a year

 

Not a T100

 

Someone just had this issue recently and fixed it. @bmf4069 @MrDirtjumper

 

I was thinking to get myself out of mud/snow type stuff more than rock crawling. Still a horrible idea? Even with new axles? Seems like it'd be nice to have a locker if used responsibly? Maybe it's just dumb...

 

Just saying, it's listed as both an 87 T100 and pickup. But T100 was only from 93-98 and never came with such straight lines or sealed beam headlights (I wish they did though)

 

Not a horrible idea at all. Just depends on your needs and your bank account brother lol

 

I know spidertrax or borla are the go to’s for wheel spacers but I can’t imagine marlin crawlers spacers aren’t good to go either. Link attached for anybody interested:


https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/...pacers?width=800&height=600&inline=true#notes

 

Hard to beat that price, you could stuff nearly any drivetrain in it. That paint is single stage also, will buff out shiny as hell with a good orange cutting pad, basic polishing compound (you can skip buffing/cutting compound if you use aggressive enough pad) and some elbow pain.

I'd probably be stupid enough to buy this. It's hard to ignore a mostly rustless truck under $1k, regardless whether it's running.

 

You want some level of fire stop from garage to house. I would not vent into house. Front vent or cut in a ridge vent.

 

Great point. If he cut he’d likely have to drywall the ceiling for fire suppression. I remember getting harassed about that on my rental property when I sold it. Keen eye for detail.

 

I've been looking at the smaller models, all I want is espresso. No need to beat my milk

Hopefully we can get through the cow manure that is building code and move on to greener pastures, mi casa es su casa. I'm a city boy and know nothing about fishing and boats but I'm looking forward to figuring it out but please bring a helmet, I will crash more than once .


Since I'm here, I'll park this right here for you guys to figure out the quality of the crack this guy has been smoking.

 

From the looks of the picture they don't appear to be hub centric.