OIL FILTERS & OIL CHANGE THREAD

Did the Fumoto valve, metal filter housing and TRD filters. The valve was easy, the filter housing needs the longer tube swapped from the plastic housing and I get a grip of filters when there is a sale and free shipping from an online dealer.

 

I got this one a couple of days ago. It doesn't come with a plug. I've not done an oil change in my Tundra yet, but will I use the oil filter plug from the stock filter assembly? Thanks

 

Great link!

I have read this: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html

And this: http://www.minimopar.net/

I like the oil filter breakdown: http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html

I use either Toyota, Wix or NAPA gold or platinum.

What is not applicable here is the size of the canister.

However, when considering a filter you should consider the size of the micros it filters.

When I time trial my car at NJMS (not my Tundra), I tend to run a WIX 51060R filter and Racing oil. The racing filter can flow 28 GPM but will only stop particles down to 61 micro. The street oil filter flows 9 - 11 GMP (vs 28 GPM) for filtration size down to 21 micros

Seems they trade off flow (9 - 11 GMP vs 28 GPM) for filtration size 21 micros vs 61 micros.

Guys who tow, have Supercharger, turbo’s or guys who off-road their trucks may have different needs.

 

Only Toyota filters, change every 5000 miles and full oil change at 10,000 miles. As far as racing oil flow at 28 gpm , this is mainly for alot of fresh clean oil moving thru system faster and cooling quicker, and most racing oil is changed out after every race or couple races , and as far as microns filtered 61 is very good , and and most particles below that aren't harmful to a point of engine failure.

 

Why watching your idle time is important: https://www.thedrive.com/news/42228...sel-with-tons-of-idle-time-and-no-maintenance

Filters do vary in build quality. If you want to lose your mind, there is a section in the BITOG forum where people cut open their filters for inspection. I’ve been in recovery for a few years, but Purolators built for Ford (Motorcraft) had issues with the filter tearing during normal use. I actually had one tear. All the other brands did well… even Fram.

I use only Toyota filters that I bought in bulk (3-4 year supply) from Roman. Not risking counterfeit crap from Amazon just to save $2. I see no reason to use anything else. They meet Toyota’s spec for filtering and flow rates.

I change the filter and oil every 5k, although both can probably easily go to 10k miles. Partially because my OCD cannot go 10k miles, but also because the truck doesn’t have an hour meter. Pre-Covid I would burn 8-10 hrs of idle time per week. I had an hour meter on my F-150 and the oil life monitor was very accurate (I did lots of oil analysis tests).

 

Is anyone using heavier oil than 0w-20?
I live in Texas and I’m a little concerned that the oil isn’t heavy enough..(hearing some slapping inside the engine bay).

 

I switched to 5w-30 at 50k. Now at 60k and I won’t be going back to 0-20. The thicker oil does quiet down the valve train.

 

Thank you!! I have a '17 with about 39k miles. I think its time to switch. Either 0w-30 or 5w-30.
I appreciate the help and feedback.

 

I used the oem because they are cheap.

 

Toyota filters mostly.I have a few wix to use up!!

 

Amsoil signature filters and Amsoil synthetic every 5k. Metal filter housing, plus the nifty wrench for it. I've never once pulled the drain plug in the bottom, just drop the whole filter housing and pull it out and save 5 minutes.

 

I'm looking at the Fumoto oil drain plug options for the Tundra. It looks like there is 4 options. I would like one that has a host adaptor since the primary driver for me is messy oil changes. I wan't to route a tube directly to my oil catch pan to minimize chances for oil spills. That leaves:

F103SX: Position Adjustable Valve with M12-1.25
F133N: Long Nipple Oil Drain Valve With M12-1.25
F133S: Short Nipple Oil Drain Valve with M12-1.25

Can anybody share their thoughts/experience on one or the other?

Does the short nipple require a special hose or can I just find some tubing of adequate ID? The nipple looks short and seems like the hose can slip off easily.

Thanks in advance.

 

I personally chose the

$40 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25

F133N. Like you, wanted to attach a hose for easy draining. Not sure how well it would stay on the shorter nipples. I also don't offroad much, so clearance isn't an issue. It does sit above the frame though so not a worry for me. The sx wasn't an option when I made my purchase.

 

I recommend this too. Makes having to do oil changes more fun and painless

 

so I Offroad an boondocking! have rci skid plates! so should I go with the short nozzle fumoto or will I be safe with the newest longer nozzle

 

I have short Fumoto nozzle and RCI skid. No issues with drain clearance and is still tucked up.

 

I have the long Fumoto as well. As others have said it doesn’t hang down below the frame or past the skid plate.

If my off-road excursions were more than forest service roads I’d probably switch it out to the shorter or no-nip version. It could get smacked with just the right sized pointy rock.

 

ok so !!!l. lol I'll add the shot one!!!done an will to again Mojave desert road an other rock induced Rocky roads so now what's the RIGHT parts NUMBER!! every time I got the two listed on products discussed they seem to be long nozzle!!!

 

Toyota filter always. The quality is usually good but I have seen a few filters with bent or uneven cloth material.

I change my own oil so I kept the plastic housing for now. As long as I’m doing the work i know it will be done carefully. The Motivx tool is a must IMO.

I switched to the Fumoto F133s

$8 LC-10 : Lever Clip for F-Type Valves (Not Compatible with SX Series)

LC-10 s-series wide body. Works well so far. I don’t do heavy off-roading. Also got the Fumoto hose kit and F-cap.

The oil is always Amsoil signature series because the plan is to keep this truck until it rusts away. I use 5-30 in the summer and I’ll probably switch back to 0-20 in the winter.

 

Quick question do you happen to have any transmission fluid oil specs and transfer case per evernote?

 

Not yet. I will look in my owner's manual eventually, but many websites will give you this info. Call the Toyota dealer and report back? Just an idea.

 

Newbi question here...
The metal oil filter cap housings, is there a real diierance between the TOYOTA beanded ones and generic ones at half the price?
I ask as it seems most of the generic ones I see have the cap/[lug where the TOYOTA ones do not.
Also, am I correct in thinking the TRD filter elements are a bit better than standard?
Thanks

 

As far as the metal filter housing, I bought an oem Toyota from Amazon. It came with the drain plug included.

 

^^X2 , got mine from Amazon also

 

The Mexican owners manual for the current Tundra allows oils up to 15W-40.

 

That makes me feel much better! I really appreciate the info on this. I will be moving up in weight on my next oil change.
Thanks again! @Shark Bait

 

I use the OEM filter since my local dealer always has them on sale for $3.99. I also use Valvoline or Mobil 1 Sysnthetic 5W30 in my TRD supercharged crewmax.