why does my 2000 tundra cut out while accelerating

I would read it with an obd2 reader to see what codes are pending a while after it clears. Chances are you'll get more of those than the actual fault.

 

If you are talking about with the key in ON position, truck not started, those lights should be on, along with others. Is that what you are meaning ?

this is a 2004 with KOEO(key on, engine off)....

 

so the engine light is only on when the key is in the on position, but then goes away once the truck is started. If that’s the case then that’s normal. I suspect something to do with the fuel pump installation or something to do with those cats missing.

 

went and look at the throttle body and it is dirty can that cause the cut out and wanting to die?

 

Get yourself some mass airflow sensor cleaner and some throttlebody cleaner. Do them both. Remember don’t touch the mass airflow sensor with your fingers or anything else. And unplug it first. It can’t hurt to at least do the cheap fix attempts. Especially stuff that should be done anyways.

 

just cleaned the mass airflow sensor with carb cleaner like a yt video said. i was also curious what the throttle body looked like and looked pretty nasty.

 

I guess as long as whatever you use doesn’t leave a residue behind. I’ve always gone the safe route and just used mass airflow sensor cleaner. And make sure it’s dry when you plug it back in.

 

https://youtu.be/IDjzWydgfyc looked like the throttle body in this video.

 

not the outside but the inside of it did.

 

it was dry when i put it back in.

 

Cats are gone, likely O2 sensor related. Are the rear O2 sensors still on the truck? And if so are you using the spacers for the cat delete?

 

yes i do have spacers.

 

Does it only feel like it's going to cut out at 3-4k RPMs when driving during the day?

Has it been sitting idle beforehand or does it do this all the time during the day while driving?

Does it feel like it's going to die when idling in drive at a light?

 

no its only when u are pressing the gas whether its reving it or in drive.

 

Rule out the new fuel pump by checking fuel pressure while revving the engine to 3000 rpm

 

Back in the day I recall there being issues with mine (2002 model) and some others like this, the throttle body positioning sensor.

 

In 2000 the Throttle Body Position Sensor was a replaceable part. Starting in 2004 (I believe) the sensor is integral to the Throttle Body, and the whole schmeer has to be replaced

 

Spitballing from my couch, does it do it in drive and park?
Have you checked your tranny fluid level or done a drain and fill to inspect the fluid?

 

yes it does do it in drive and park.

 

Hmmm... And no check engine or codes?

I mean, if I had to guess, if the splice repair didn't resolve it, and you replaced fuel pump, filter & cap, it's still going on, and it's not a bad sensor, stumbling on acceleration is usually a matter of fuel, spark or air delivery in my experience.

But without knowing if there's codes, there's a laundry list of things to check. Some common things I can think of would involve throttle body or throttle body sensor. One ore more cracked or old coil packs or bad spark plugs. Could be a stuck or clogged injector, fuel pump or fuel relay. Loose, cracked, or detached vacuum, PCV, ???

Next easiest thing to check (I think) would be those spark plugs and coil packs. But I'm sure someone else will have other easy and good ideas to check.

 

@shifty` He mentioned that it has new plugs and coil packs. @chasesmith343 What are the temperatures at night where you live? Ambient temps can have an effect on the A/F mixture.

first things first, you need to grab a scanner and see what codes are present.

 

I thought I recall a thread about someone changing a fuel pump on a first GEN and it ultimately being a fuel pressure sensor or regulator.?

 

Fuel pump relay. But symptom I've seen is a no-start condition, until the truck sits and cools down. It's happened to @FirstGenVol and a couple others IIRC

 

i replaced the fuel pump resistor and temps during the summer time is about 95

 

i live in las vegas so its hot.

 

OP, have you actually verified that all the components being discussed and the ones you've replaced are within spec, like the fuel pressure and bleed-off, for example? Or your TPS or MAF? If not, this is where you need to start, otherwise you're just chasing your tail by throwing parts at it and speculating. Verify this stuff, post up the results and let's go from there.

Edit: here's a link to the official Toyota service manual for your M/Y

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9...aGM/view?resourcekey=0-IUgFBrEgIe9zfnbQv0LhaA

All the specs and procedures you need to resolve your running issue are contained within these pages.

 

My titan has a similar problem, and i dont have a clue why. No codes, and no problems driving at night. But during sunny days (not temp related cause it can happen during a 50* winter day, but is fine during a 90* summer night), it starts coughin’ sputterin’ and jerkin’ if i ask for more than 1/2 throttle. Its done it for years, and ive learned how to drive around it. If its foggy or rainy or overcast its fine, but if its sunny i dont ask for more than 1/2 throttle, and its fine.

 

im starting to think its my throttle body.

 

check ur throttle body.

 

You "think"? Dig into the manual and verify it's functioning properly and the electronics are within spec and you'll know.