Crackhead resurrection

Yeah, just be sure to save the PCBs for the controls on the old panel or whatever. Just in case. May feel stupid holding onto a busted up old panel, but ... Man, if your AC ever dies because the controls go out, you're f'ed.

Oh, and make sure your AC still works after swapping in the new-old-new.

 

I thought pink milk shake was when you blow the head gasket and the red Toyota coolant mixes with your oil. Now I'm confused.

 

I suppose someone might call it that but it's actually when your coolant makes it's way into your transmission via those lines that help cool the transmission fluid. It seems to be pretty rare though.

 

Right? I'm confused on how red coolant and red trans oil makes a pink milkshake.

 

Pink milkshake happens when the radiator goes bad. Specifically the part of the radiator that has the transmission cooling lines ran through it. Then Coolant gets into the trans fluid creating a delicious strawberry delight. That destroys transmissions.

 

I think the oil and water mix and turn frothy making is look like a milk based product

 

Called advanced auto in e-town. Spoke with a very helpful, and knowledgeable dude. He asked me what engine size. I said "4.7 liter V8." He asked me if it was an Access Cab, and I said "Regular cab." He said "Oh, very cool."

Tried to sell me on cheaper off-brand radiators which I declined. Was insistent on Denso. He explained that they do price match, but not with Amazon. I'll shop around online to see if I can find a cheaper unit.

A-zone doesn't list denso on their website. If I can't find a cheaper one, I'll bite the bullet, and call Advanced at Hoptown.

 

And froth is bad for transmissions. Transmission fluid is specifically designed to eliminate frothing. They are hydraulic and need pressure from pumping the fluid to operate. Bubbles are compressible and make the fluid unable to maintain the pressure needed to operate. It also acts as a lubricant. The coolant/water part decreases the lubricity increasing wear and can create corrosion.

 

Good point. But it actually does resemble it a bit. It just happened to another member.

ttps://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-transmission-drain-fill-4qts.48692/page-3#post-2350829

 

Gnarly. This is what I hope to avoid

 

Quick search finds an OEM Rad ~$150

https://www.oemgenuineparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-radiator-16410az018

 

@Tundra2 if you haven't found any radio brackets yet (I'm not headed to JY soon or I'd look on your behalf!) it looks like 00-02 used the same brackets and 03-06, and I did a little digging in case you hadn't found any donors yet and it may save you time or something.

These are the p/n for the first couple years (00-02?): 86212-0C010, 86211-0C010
Here's the p/n for the latter years (03-06?): 86212-0c011, 86211-0c011

Looks like fleabay has an option for both.
The older ones for $50 shipped, search for 362731957289
The newer ones for $42 shipped, search for 361752256524

 

So what did I order from mcgeorge? Viewing on mobile is hard...

These are supposed to be left and right.

 

So good news, Toyota is going to replace the frame!

 

Bad news....you pissed your pants after hearing that

Stoked for ya

 

Picked up the shit box from Swope with @TundraGirl2


Still another 93 miles till home.

 

Yep, you got the right ones! Awesome.

HELL THE F YEAH! Super awesome. See, it pays to buy trucks from tweakers! They're too messed up to realize recall work, warranty work etc. can be free if you have the time and knowledge.

Now all you gotta worry about is cleaning up and de-tweaking that interior, then patching up that lil but of rust on the side. Wish you were closer, I'd totally help you with that patch. Granted, I'm sure we probably have other members closer who may be able to help...

Btw, while you're better off just cutting a small section off a donor truck to make your patch, if you really wanted to go OEM with that rust patch, I think the part number is 61418-0c030 but check the exploded diagram on this page to confirm what you need - click "View Full Size", jot down the 5-6 digit number in the diagram, then use CTRL+F/Command+F to search the page for that number.

Oh, and the parts on that page are specifically for the 2000 RC SR5 4.7L Auto transmission truck. Dealership should be able to confirm you're getting the right part, but this part number will get you in the ballpark.

 

Why do I get the funny feeling this is going to end up becoming your main truck?

 

Best news I've heard all week! Glad all this driving has been worth it anyway.
You better take a gander at that timing belt now though.

 

Great news on the frame replacement! If you decide to keep the truck, I expect that you will find it to be amazingly useful.

 

https://youtu.be/8bVfctuZh0w

How it sounds today scooting with these knobby ass tires, and leaky exhaust.

 

Hmmm....have you taken a peek at the TB ?

 

Sounds like a schoolbus How's the timing belt look? (considering all the other shit tweaker dude ignored)

 

Damn, better get that exhaust fixed! That sure is annoying.

 

I've only asked him about the timing belt 3 times. I wouldn't keep driving it until I looked at it.

 

he's giving it a good test at 80

 

Well, as requested, numerous times... I give you pics of the Timing belt!




I'd say it's original. I didn't feel like burning my hands anymore against hot coolant pipes and hoses for more clearance. Y'all'll just have to wait till I get to the TB/WP, and thermostat.

 

I'm still jaded from today. Been on the road since 8 am. 5 different cities, $5,200, 400 miles, and two different time zones later... I'm home at 6:00 pm before Timing belt pics.

Thank you so much for all this info. I'll give it a gander once I'm not so woozy from today.

 

Yep. That belt is toast. You planning to do the timing belt yourself? Should be a fun project.

This truck is a testament to Toyota reliability. Been a farm truck for 20 years. Rode hard and put away wet. Likely the original timing belt at nearly 300k miles. Probably hasn't had any maintenance aside from an occasional oil change. Wouldn't be surprised if the trans fluid is original. Try doing this with a Ford or GM. There is no way it would still be humming along.

Nice find Noah. Once she has a new frame you can drive it another 20 years. Excited to see the maintenance journey.