RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

Great explanation! Thanks for posting.

 

Great product!

 

Updated my radio to software version 1047 today.
Went to this website:
https://www.toyota.com/firmware-updates
Entered my info as a 2020 Tundra with Navigation and it showed an update was available.
Downloaded the file, stuck it on a thumb drive (2GB or larger, formatted to FAT32), then followed the instructions that show on the site.
The info says it is supposed to fix some "abnormal screen play using Apple CarPlay" and also sound quality on phone calls with CarPlay.
I'll see if I notice any improvement to the phone audio...

This was the software update screen before the update:

 

Hmmm. I thought it was supposed to update over the air. Checking this out now to see what mine shows.

 

Some things auto-update, but that particular bit does not. I just updated the post with my "before" screen, and I need to go grab a picture of the "after" screen.

 

Mid-week mini-mod
Battery Hold Down from @Coupe
You can find the thread here

Use a 10mm deep socket or wrench to loosen the two factory j-bolt nuts and remove the factory hold down.

Then use a 7/16” deep socket or wrench to install the new longer j-bolts.


It took longer to upload the picture on my crappy internet than to do the work…

 

Installed the Westcott Designs Fox TRD Pro Front Lift Kit today. Took myself and ODBF (oldest daughter’s boyfriend) about two hours to get the driver’s side done working through the learning process, then under an hour for the passenger side. Getting the cam adjuster bolts loose and getting the sway bar end links back into the lower control arms were the hardest parts. We also didn’t get a very good position on the spring clamps with the first set of springs (and were pushing the limits of the spring clamps that he had), so we ended up using a press to get the whole thing compressed enough to get the cap nut back on the shock - which was all just a little sketchy…

I didn’t get any “during” pictures because we were dirty and just trying to get it done. The install video on Westcott’s site was helpful for general process, but the Tundra and the 4Runner they show in the video are a bit different. Also, the kit comes with 4 bump stop spacers, but there were no instructions so we didn’t know what they were. We ended up calling Westcott to figure it out - left a message and they called back within 20 minutes…and we were plenty busy with other stuff in the meantime to no issues. The bump stops are 8-flat, and pretty big, so we ended up using a 12” pipe wrench to get them off and then back on.

Measurement on the front from center of axle to underside of wheel well was 23.5”. After we were done, lowered it on the shop floor, and then drove it around the yard to let things settle in, the final measurement is 25” (both sides). In the back, I’m currently at 25.25” for the same measurement on the passenger side (CB +2 shackles in the back), and 24.75” on the driver side with just under 1/4 tank of fuel. Ultimately, I’m going to look at something different in the back to get things back to just a little rake…not sure if I’ll look for some CB +3 shackles temporarily or look at going to Roadmaster Active Suspension in the rear, or what exactly.

I’ve got my alignment scheduled for Tuesday.



pardon the dirt - the lift is a barely noticeable top shim and a new slightly taller/thicker bottom spring seat.


ETA:
Results from the alignment shop

 

Looking good, although now those 295s almost don't seem adequate. Gonna go bigger down the road?

 

When these wear out, I may switch to 285/75's instead.

 

Following - I’m wanting to get the Westcott collars for my Bilstein Pros but want to make sure Westcott isn’t full of shit about not needing UCAs for a good alignment…

Truck looks awesome.

 

I see in your list of planned mods you have the possibility of a roof-top tent? I may have a line on one for a decent deal. Just curious if these Yakima rails and Rhino-Rack bars are good for that kind of load. I checked the link you sent but didn't see any guidelines for weight. Would you keep the same setup you currently have?

 

From what I can tell, Rhino rates their cross bars at 100kg/pair regardless of application… so not enough for a tent. Yakima and Thule also have a similar rating on their setups, which is why I cringe a little seeing Subaru Imprezas running around with a RTT on a set of Yakima crossbars.

I’ve been looking at few different racks but would need something that clamps to the bed (since the TCUSA relocates the bed tracks lower) and offsets under/around the tonneau cover rails. I know the Voodoo Max Modular system has an attachment setup that would work, but haven’t looked too much into other options.

I also considered making custom base shims for the Yakima HD rack to work with these rails, and I’ve considered figuring out how to modify the TCUSA cover to attach to the factory track rails in their original mounting location. Just need some time and dry weather…

 

I just heard back from TCUSA regarding compatible rack systems for heavier loads (like a tent). This is what I was told:

"Please note that our current Yakima track system does not accommodate the Overhaul or Outpost HD equipment from Yakima. We are working directly with Yakima to introduce a new track system that does but that is looking like not launching until late summer."

The Overhaul and Outpost HD racks hold 500lbs on road and 300lbs off-road. I may just wait until TCUSA releases this coming track system.

 

Interesting. I’m betting it will require new side rails similar to the retrax setup

 

Yeah. If so, that’ll probably be a bit more than the $105 it would cost me to get the current Yakima tracks from TCUSA.

 

Like Casey said, most likely will be rails similar to the Retrax. Not sure how big you are into looks but the Retrax rails(as do pace edwards) definitely sit a little more proud than the tcusa rails. I personally like the looks of the tcusa/Yakima combo over the Retrax. For adding a rack it gets a little more complicated, but a machine shop could easily mill you out some bridges made of aluminum to allow the rack to rest on and mount to the Yakima rails. I dunno, just my $.02

 

Mid-week Mini Mod:
Desert Does It Front Seat Jackers installed on the driver's seat.

• Pop off the back plastic covers on your rear seat mounts, then use a 14mm socket to loosen those bolts about half-way out.
• Use the same 14mm socket to fully remove the front seat bolts, so that you can tip the seat back.
• Place the seat jackers with the horizontal threaded hole facing forward and the rolled pin into the hole in the frame.
• Use an 8mm allen wrench to secure the two socket head screws to hold the seat jackers to the truck.
• Lower the front seat onto the seat jackers and use the new provided bolts and a 15mm socket to secure the seat down
• Use the 14mm socket to re-tighten the rear bolts
• Re-install the plastic trim covers.
• Readjust your seat because you've just raised the front a full inch. I went from the front adjustment being all the way up to now all the way down. I'll make some more tweaks as I drive the next couple of days I'm sure...

I’ll probably end up making my own bracket to attach to the front of these to hold a fire extinguisher or some other things…

 

I also started the process of cleaning up the wiring in the engine bay (even though I really don't have much in there yet).

The first step is installing a over the engine fuse box.

My plan is not to use it for a compressor mount (I'm eyeballing the SDHQ one when I finally decide to add a compressor). Instead, I'm planning to use it as a platform for mounting some terminal strips and added fuse distribution to keep things nice and tidy for both my power and my grounds when I eventually add the SP9100 and for cleaning up the ground points for my camera and under hood lighting, as well as the power for the under hood lighting.

Rago has some good instructions on their site for installing this. I can say that having a LONG socket extension (10" or so) would have been very handy. I was just barely getting by stacking my two 3" socket extensions with my deep 10mm socket to get to the bolt on the front of the fuse box (which, by the way, you need to replace with the one they provide because the original is too short).

I still need to mark, drill, and install the rivnuts, but was running out of time tonight. I'll get to that either tomorrow evening or this weekend, and hopefully start laying out some wiring clean up too.





6/19/21
got the rivnuts installed.
27/64 is there perfect size drill bit for a snug fit in these. Or a “Z”.
Watch out for location - there is a row of spot welds that connect to an inner reinforcing. My rear hole was a little lower than the front and that inner reinforcing required a few hits with a punch to dimple it out of the way of the rivnut. If I’d been up about 1/8-3/16” I’d not have had that extra step.

Paint the edges of the holes before inserting the rivnuts. I got the cheap tool at harbor freight with a coupon (get the short handle one).


Then put it all back together.
4mm hex key for the flat head screws and 13mm wrench for the two into the fender.


Now I’m ready to start planning the wire/terminal strip layout.

 

Just dropped the alignment results into post #368

 

Did the TC American Roll cover come with the rack rails?

 

Yes. It is an option.

 

Casey, are you not rubbing n the front bumper with those alignment specs. Maybe I need to lower my caster down to 3.5 degrees

edit: just realized you’re running 295s.

 

Yeah, 295/70x18's on stock wheels with the westcott lift (+1.5" up front).
Ends up with a completely different geometry than what you're running on yours.

 

Small on - added my SSEM # to the spot below the shifter.
Started with a custom TufSkinz center console badge in Matte Black w/ TRD Red letters, but I didn't want to lose my TRD Pro console badge, so I picked this spot instead.

 

SSEM=?
Scottish Society for Experimental Medicine?

 

I believe the clue lies within the picture! Double check that patch

 

Stop pressing that button on the bottom right please. @Jim LE 1301 ‘s wife is trying to get some work done.

 

Huge Lunar Rock fan. If I didn't have so much time and money in my MGM, I'd be trying really hard to get in one. Such a great color.

 

The first rule about SSEM is...