Topper Repair Thoughts

I wasn't sure if this is the correct forum, but thought since my topper is as old as my 1st gen that people here would be the best resource.
The gas strut mounts for my topper have one or two screws that have started stripping and I wondered if anyone has thoughts on the best way to reinforce the screws or fill in the fiberglass holes so they can be re-tapped?

Here are pictures of the fastener, the holes that are the problem area, and the setup.

 

Screws or bolts? Maybe bigger screws, maybe more coarse thread, maybe set with epoxy, maybe relocate the mechanisms, lots to consider, pics would be a big help.

 

Pictures would probably get you a better answer. If the hole is small epoxy with a strong filler would be what I would do. Fiberglass is super repairable. That's why fiberglass boats and travel trailers seem to stick around forever. A marine shop will have what you need.

 

Hard to get perspective on your holes location really from the pic but this is what I use on Fiberglass

http://www.captaintolley.com/

The slower you build it up in thin layers the stronger it is.

There are also probably a million other fillers for fiberglass that work just as well,fiberglass is just too easy to fix really!

You can also simply move the mounting holes a little bit and make new ones that are not wallered out yet and or just try bigger fasteners if they will fit the struts.

 

Drill slightly larger holes in the brackets and reattach with next up size screws, why make it so hard? It's simple. When you reattach don't overtighten.

 

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.
I did try going up to a little bigger fastener, and two hold fine, but two do not and are leveraged too much when opening/closing. It's an awkward angle and space so I wasn't sure if silicon or epoxy would be enough to hold.
Should I add it to the screw when fastening, or should I try filling the hole and then re-tapping?

 

Besides filling the holes or using larger hardware, maybe you could mount a piece of plate metal, maybe an 8th inch thick, to reinforce the entire area. Secure the piece of metal in an area larger then the mount for the absorber. Then reattach the absorber mount to the metal with either stainless pop rivets or screws again. That should reinforce the entire mounting area.

 

Fill the holes first. With something that small you probably don't need filler. You will need to flip it upside down to get any epoxy in there without filler though.

Moving to new holes may be a better option.

 

This^^^^

 

my excellent markup skillz

Something like this, you can go larger and add more screws, but to give you an idea.
You can even make it a larger piece and bend it in a vice to match the curve of the shell and even have a broader reinforced area

 

Thanks for the input @15whtrd that's a good idea. I think I can find something that will work.

 

Bam. This was exactly what I was thinking. Have you haver had a screen door return plunger tear the wood outta the door jamb? You keep adding screws and they keep pulling out? Next comes the plate shown below and the door is solid...until the visiting cousins find a new way to destroy stuff. Have I mentioned I was once a visiting cousin? Sorry, Uncle Bob.

 

The key to the success of this solution will be to have twice the number of screws attaching the plate compared to the previous design.

 

Agreed, but also the wider base plate will help regardless. That way it’s not trying to torque with the weight of the glass and resistance of the shocks. So even with the same amount of screws it should be stronger and less likely to fail. But more screws is definitely suggested

 

Just for the record it is worth pointing out that it is better to have the screws pull out again than the shell crack where the reinforcement is if you get my drift?

 

I know exactly what you’re talking about!. I also had a camper shell on my last truck and shock mounts would fail on it as well. But mine was attached to the aluminum window surround. The rivets would work loose over time and completely come out. Upgraded to stainless rivets and it lasted about 10 years before I had to do it again. Still going strong now I gave the truck to my stepdad.

 

I could see that, but that is a pretty strong part of the shell, I think the real issue was the small bracket getting wrenched on. If that force is now spread out over an area, I doubt it would crack the shell. I could be wrong but I think it will work.

 

Reinforcement plate with numerous screws will actually distribute the forces over a larger area than before, so I personally would not be concerned with any cracking.

 

+1 on a larger mounting plate and more screws

 

Precisely the art of designing a systems solution and how things go bad when making some mods w/out considering the rest of the system.

 

I also think the struts were replaced at some point and not sure why, but they used some stout replacements. I am replacing them with some lower force ones to help with the force exerted on the bracket. I think the ones on there are 55 pounds and I'm putting on 45 pound replacements.

 

Sorry to hammer the point, but the strength of the gas spring is also a factor in the system. You're probably on a good path of solving why the screws blew out.

FWIW, McMaster-Carr has an amazing assortment of gas springs and fittings for each end as well as calcs to select the correct spring. Recommended Sunday afternoon reading.

https://www.mcmaster.com/gas-springs/



p.s. Happy you stopped by first gen for mare than you asked for?

 

Thanks for the link, building a DIY hardtop bed cover in the near future and I will be in the market for some support.

 

That's a good point and thanks for the link. There's a reason (well multiple reasons) I went with a first gen and not a brand new tundra or some other POS. Experienced and knowledgeable community of owners.