What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I broke one of those bolts trying to use a torque wrench. The LBJ has some sort of rubber boot that keeps compressing. I don't think my torque wrench could ever figure out when I'd hit the magic #.

 

The boot is worn out then. The rubber should have a metal washer in it

 

I always liked those. It wasn't going to work on my ranger when I planned to do one. I guess I forgot about it for the tundra. Maybe after I get fiberglass bedsides. I say you do it! Their prices aren't too bad either.

 

Keep us updated. Mine squeak like crazy

 

I'm super glad you guys are talking about squeaks in the leafs... let me know what you come up with.

 

Door is back together and works great. Put Sil-glyde on any moving parts I could find including the door handle, super smooth and like new. I had to go to the dealer for some rod snaps and got a new door check too. Stuck the plastic back to the door with some epoxy. Sucks spending money on this type of stuff but it also sucks having things that don't work 100% correctly. I also don't want to take door apart at a later date to replace the door check.



We have power to the rear pods.

 

Whats your thoughts on the Hellwig Bar with drive time on her?

 

Still using the truck to move. Almost done. It's been easier to back it right up to the front porch. Neighbors probably think we're strange.

 

A few weeks back I noticed my truck was sounding way more awesome than usual. Sure enough, the exhaust pipe cracked before the muffler. First priority was to drive the nearly open-pipe V8 like a hooligan for two weeks. Goodness it was fun to watch the 2nd and 3rd gens retreat in shame to the mall parking lots when I pulled up and revved the 4.7 monster.

Unfortunately, all things must end and the time to fix it arrived yesterday.

Pipe completely severed, the pipe is also separating from the muffler. While the hangers look solid, it appears it needed an additional hanger in this area for support.


Repair parts...


No exhaust repair is complete without a tin can. I sourced a 24 oz tomato can as the perfect solution for this application.


Temporary repair complete...


I'm anticipating that the internet experts will rake me over the coals for paying for the fancy pre-fab hanger and stainless band-aid when I could've used baling wire and a tin can but it's nothing but the best for my FGT.

 

@des2mtn, I've been tempted to experiment with cheaper door-check parts or even screwing bottom head screws into the bumps in the plastic arm to increase the resistance but would probably end up spending more time and money that way. Did you pay about $85 each for these?

 

Yeah, I put some thought into how much I use the door and also about the time-effort-cost of fixing, going mickey mouse, or going cheapo. Paid about $86.

I called multiple parts program dealers in the area and found one available for pickup same day. Told them I was going to order online and pick it up the same day and they said okay and fulfilled.

 

Thanks for the recco @bmf4069

Used this Dremel that was Awarded to me at a Hand Model Conference for Those Most Likely to Succeed at Automotive Things.

Got the Ports rounded off and the Edges knocked down as best as possible without going all @FrenchToasty on it. The Dremel came with a hard case and not a Purse. It even came with some cool accessories.

 

Shweet flow!

 

Yeah. I overlayed the Percy Gasket over the Header and then Sharpie’d the Round as a guide. Stoked.

 

That Dremel has made me $$$ when cutting out old failed between floor PVC Shower Pan Drains from the topside. Put a cutter wheel on it and drop it down the drain to cut from the inside.

Slip Joint Repair to new drain $$$.

 

Did my first ever timing belt job/water pump over the weekend. I'm only at 80k miles on my 06, but i have no records of the belt ever being changed by the previous owner. Decided to play it safe and replace since its 15 years old. Job wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, took me Friday evening and Saturday morning. Belt appeared to still be in decent condition, but the water pump had alot of crust under it, so I'm glad I got it all changed. also replaced all the drive belt components and thermostat while I was in there

Had some trans fluid drip out of the hose when I disconnected it from the radiator (maybe about 1/2 cup)....is that a big deal? do i need to top off the trans?

 

Probably fine. But it may be worth doing a trans drain and fill every oil change for the next couple of them.

I'm at about 168k and no trans fluid was ever changed on mine til a couple weeks ago when I did 12 qts (4x drain & fills). I'll probably do a few more next oil change.

 

Noticeable difference right off, though I need to put some miles on and maybe adjust it to the middle notch.

 

I need to get some info on this and change mine sometime soon.

 

Cut El Gaskéts this evening from the Remfelx DIY Sheet. Top are the JBA provided which I used to template for the cut Final Product Bottoms.

Shtuff is like a weird mix of Graphite, Aluminum, Mica, with a Fiber Mesh in the middle. Double Thickness over the JBA.

 

I installed a diff drop today, pretty simple.
The diff kit cost $38, came with good instructions, grade 8.8 hardware... and a bunch of swag. I like.
2021-05-09_06-26-20 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

2021-05-09_06-22-26 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

Also painted my grille badging (gotta stick with the Deadpool theme). I picked up some rattle-can color matching paint (Toyota 3K4)... which turns out, is pretty hard to find. Gave it a few coats of that and two of clear-coat to top em off. Taping the "V 8" was a bitch but worth my time. Happy.
They were previously bedlined black... by me.
2021-05-09_06-55-00 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

Now Deadpool red grille badging. Breaks up the grille a little better, the black-on-black was boring.
2021-05-09_06-19-36 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

 

That reminds me... do I need to get an alignment after the diff drop? Not sure if it effected the alignment. Felt good after a test drive.

 

Looks good. I was just talking to my pops about painting my roof flat black. I was thinking my hood should get painted too. Later I'll probably paint my fiberglass fenders and the sides of the hood phantom grey again. Glad to see the black hood doesn't look bad at all.

 

No suspension parts are changed. You should be good. It would be like changing a CV axle and needed an alignment. If you didn't move any suspension or steering then you are good.

 

Nope, unless you removed the control arms/tie rods or suspension.


Also fyi grade 8.8 is similar to grade 5 hardware.

Grade 10.9 is better and 12.9 is the best.

Don't you unbolt the steering knuckle when doing that? Toe set is possibly needed, unless the knuckle has dowels. Can't recall lol.

 

As long as you don't adjust anything it should go back together like you never touched it. Tapered tie rod and ball joint ends shouldn't move anything if they are removed from and put back on. If they do, something is wrong.

 

Oem optics are far superior too.

 

What fluid are you using?

 

I did 4 quarts of Toyota WS and then 8 of Valvoline Maxlife (WS rated). This was after reading about how OEM WS breaks down faster with heat (ie: towing). If I hadn't already bought 4 of the OEM I would have used only the Maxlife.

 

Been a busy month on the truck. All the exterior bulbs have been upgraded to LED. Which has caused a few goblins to figure out but nothing terrible. Replaced upper and lower ball joints, new shocks and struts, added a leveling kit and bump stop extensions. Installed new leaf springs and went with a heavy duty set with one extra leaf,will most likely tear the old ones apart and add one of them as well. Added a lot of weight to the truck and have plans for more. Replaced tie rods and sway bar links while i was at it cause everything was already torn apart. Yesterday was spent wiring up some rock lights. Plan on finishing that up tomorrow after work. Although I will most likely end up getting a couple more ‍♂️