Suspension 5100s w/????

I'm putting in Bilstein 5100s to level it out (second notch up is what I've read to set it at) on the front/rear, but my bushings are pretty worn out. Do I just replace them with OEM plus put in new lower control arms or go with something else? I hope the 5100s get rid of the chirping/slight squeak when going over bumps. No hauling, towing, etc. for me. Any ideas would be great. Thanks!

 

I did the 5100’s front and rear, but couldn’t reuse the coils as it turned out the truck had some quick strut package and the spring wasn’t compatible with the front 5100’s.

I ended up using OME 885’s on the lowest setting on the 5100’s. Ride is pretty good, but the 5100’s always have seemed valved stiff. I’ve also run them on my Tacoma and 4Runner.

Truck is nice and level with rear Icon add a leafs. Also clears 285’s pretty well.

As far as the squeaks, I had the worst sounding front end imaginable. If your truck has high mileage expect to replace upper and lower Ball Joints, inner and outer Tierods and sway bar links. I also had a shot steering rack. Along with new lower control arms and CV Boot rebuild kits, I was close to 4K at the dealer and I did all the work myself.

 

Like Diablo says above^^^

Same happened with my truck with tired squeaky front end. She was worn out. Had 4wd Place rebuild and she was better that new again! Paid $3400 parts and labor about 3 years ago.

Toyota LCA’s come with built in bushings which is most of the key solution to your job.

 

Toyota makes oem cv boot kits?

 

Yes. A few members here have rebuilt theirs. @FrenchToasty and @CodyP iirc. They should have the part numbers.

 

Yep. The toyota P/N is 044380C020. $53.10/side I paid through my dealer online. I still have the inner boots though as I went with CVJ on the red silicone extended boot since I have a bit of a lift.

 

Nice. How much did your Pretty Red Silicone Boot cost?

Did you use that Secret Mojo Synthetic Grease that Toasty used?

 

I just used the oem toyota grease that both the oem kit and CVJ kit included. After shipping the two boots costed $153 $60/boot and then $23 shipping. Pretty outrageous

 

Yeah but its worth it with your lift. Nothing wrong with OEM Grease. Toastys Synthetic looks pretty shweet but can’t remember cost.

 

Right, initially I hmmd and hawd but it will keep the joints sealed for a lot longer and figured it would be worth it in the end. I was going to get some but I figured I was already like $250 in reboot material so I bagged the fancy grease.

 

I think that Grease is @FrenchToasty secret to soft plumber Hands. Helps shtuff skid down the pipes easier, too.

 

It’s nice shtuff.

$29 Red Line CV-2 Synthetic High-Performance Extreme Pressure Grease with Red Moly, 14 Ounce Jar

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-80401-Grease-Ounce/dp/B0053O9FQS

I think the older tripod joints are easier to pack since they come apart easier. I watched some Timothy videos and specifically didn’t follow some of his instructions, he crammed most of the grease into the boot......not the joint.
The 6ball bearing design of the newer cvs makes it hard to cram the grease deep into the joints and passages, but I did my best and then made a tower cake of remaining grease on top of the joint, then slid boot down and messaged the grease deeper, then spun in a circle with my arms out for centrifugal force packing. I used 2.5 tubs for all 4 joints using my coffee scale to watch the grams go in.

 

Is rebooting pretty straight forward? New grease, boots and clamps.. done deal?
I'll do some research so don't don't feel like you have to over explain.

 

yes it really was. Like Frechy was saying it's hard to get grease into these joints if they aren't the tripod style but still doable just takes more time. There are a few youtube videos I watched.
The hardest part is keeping clean while getting it regreased and the snap ring back onto the joint for me.

 

So are you guys replacing original joints in there or strictly re-greasing when boots fail?

 

There wasn't much if any play in any of my joints. I had no ripped boots so I just rebooted and re greased as the grease was still 'clean' inside. So I think it's just dependent on the condition of yours.

 

Gotcha, thanks for the details. I just noticed some minor cracks on the outer boot, no leaks yet.

Sorry for the derail OP.

 

Well hopefully he gains some insight on CVs through all this
Yeah I would just reboot/regrease yours then as your typical PHM preventative maintenance program

 

Yeah that's true.
Oh yeah, I'm getting all geared up for a PHM front end refresh this summer.

Still trying to decide to try and throw new bushings in the LCA's or just get new like Sir Model said up above^^ I don't plan on ever getting rid of the Sequoia, so I think I already know my answer.

 

yeah I think for the effort and time spent, that just replacing the arms is what I am going to do. Plus I'm told you don't have to go OEM on them so at $70-90/arm for MOOG ones that's pretty reasonable.

 

OEM for the cam adjusters is probably ideal yeah?

 

That’s what I would do and actually I think @Tundra2 is selling a set maybe?

 

Ice cold Dos Equis and a long awkward hug for a cam bolt kit? @Tundra2 OBO.

 

The guy at the 4wd Place said the SPC are the better of the two and they cost less. He said they have better adjustability vs OEM when asked before putting them on my truck. Win win.

 

Sweet! I love a good win/win.

 

Thank you everyone! Looks like it stirred up great conversations. Nice! I was hoping I could avoid spending the $$$, but it's cheaper than buying a new truck, so I may just have to do it.

 

That's one of the main things to think about. Unless you constantly are spending $600+ a month on your truck it still comes out way cheaper to own than a new one.

 

Jumping back in a little late. CV boot replacement was pretty easy just messy. Toyota want $1,000 Parts and Labor to swap and grease CV boots. My stock boots went 260k and only one inner failed. I purchased 2 CV clamp tools off Amazon for about $40, made installing the clamps easier. Joints were still tight no reason to replace at this time.

I only run Toyota bushings and TRE’s etc. the only thing I didn’t replace with Toyota was the Sway Bar links, mainly because they are really easy to swap out, and Toyota wanted over $400 for all the individual pieces.

 

Really wish I had done this with my OEM CV's. The aftermarkets have already failed once and been replaced under warranty (Lifetime).

 

Yeah, factory CV’s are like $600 each once you piece them together.