What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Do you recall how many boxes you used?

 

Thanks, I didn't realize there was no factory sway bar in the rear until after I asked the question.

 

I think the TRD models come with one. Got mine from a Toyota dealer off eBay


https://www.ebay.com/itm/401751254108

 

Finished up my with all new brakes, stainless lines, backing plates, rear bearings, and an oil change today!

 

Oof, rear bearings are a lot of work!

 

Did you get those calipers from Amazon? I got some aftermarket ones from Amazon and put them on because I thought the old ones were sticking a little bit. Ever since I put them on it seems like the brake pedal is a little squishy. I had les Schwab make sure they were bled and they said they didn’t get any air out of them and my mechanic says the pedal feels fine so I don’t know lol. Maybe there is still some air trapped in there... when I pump up the brake pedal it feels more firm. I like a hard brake pedal feels safer to me

 

Where did you get this at? My '10 rearview mirror has started peeling.

 

Mine are genuine Toyota calipers up front, but I’m getting some shaking when braking. Going to bleed them again tomorrow. Pads, rotors, and lines are stoptech.

 

I’m really happy with this mod I really enjoy it and my 3 year old son thought it was so cool

 

Excuse the dirtiness. The truck hasn't really been used or cleaned since a camping trip...last summer.

Tundra grade black cluster panel and Sequoia black console panel are in. The black cluster panel definitely is going to pick up and show dirt more purely based on the texture it has compared to the original silver. But eh, it's in.

 

Redline 75w-85 in the diffs
Redline 75w-90NS in the Tcase
Amazon crush washer kit


The Tcase oil looked new, but the oil in the diffs looked worn and had a shimmer to it. I guess the hypoid gear action really works the oil hard. I'm assuming it was the factory fill.

I opted for the NS in the Tcase because it doesn't have LS friction modifiers. I wasn't sure if the Tundra Tcase needs friction to shift like some of my previous vehicles. The additives in the diffs won't do anything but stink up my garage for a few days

I've been partial to Redline since my college days when I drove a 94 Toyota pickup. Redline MT90 did wonders for that transmission.

 

Installed my Bakflip F1

 

Now you gotta let us know if it leaks or not. Looks sharp!

 

Way back I had some shaking going on whilst braking. Turned out to be the rotors had a slight warp to them. In my case it was most likely due to overheating the rotors through heavy braking - the 1st gen front calibers were undersized. Don't wanna tell you stuff you probably already know, but new rotors need to be broken in - there is a procedure of light braking the first few hundred miles or so. I don't recall details, but google is your friend. Then there is the possibility that one or both rotors have a slight warp from the factory. Maybe oil on the pads? Maybe something not quite tight after the brake overhaul? Finally, check to see if there are any Gremlins living in the wheel wells...time for bed...

 

Local UPull. Came off a Nissan Maxima

 

Looks great. Pyrite?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/pyrite-mica-4t3-picture-thread.65790/

 

Did you embed the pads and rotors right after you installed them? There is a break in procedure where you go through a series of medium then higher speed stops to transfer some braking material to the rotors. You have to do it per each manufacturer recommendations. If you don’t, you can feel pulsating in the brake pedal and or steering wheel. The speeds at which to do it can vary per manf. There are a lot of articles and videos on how to do it. You just need a stretch of road where you can speed up and break hard ( during the second phase ) without causing an accident. This may not be your problem, but it is something that needs to be done anytime you do a break job. Shops that do breaks very rarely do it. Hope this helps

 

Yes, pyrite. It's my favorite of the colors available. Thanks for the link! I'll try to get some better pics and post in that thread.

 

New wheels and tires.. Had the old Method 301’s since 2010, 18x9 295/70/18. Updated with the MR315 17x8.5 0 offset, 35x12.5x17. A little more “flashy”..... Old setup with never mounted matching spare is for sale in DFW. PM if interested.

 

Rear bumper.

 

Looks great! Yours sits exactly how I want mine to. What rock sliders are you running? I like how they're tucked up there and don't hang down so low.

 

Nice. One of those Hooke Road bumpers? Are the BSM sensors real or plugs?

 

Thank you! It’s been a lot of fine tuning.
Sliders are All Pro Off Road Apex. Very happy with them.

 

The parking sensors are real. The outer two holes are the correct size for the outer two sensors. The inner two holes have to be enlarged properly to fit the sensors. This is par for the course for what Hooke offers.

 

Opened a thread a while back about different styles of sliders peeps are running. This is the first of the All Pro Apex I've seen. Really like the looks of them too and the way they are mounted to the frame. I have to say though, as a welder and a frugal f#@k, the price is sobering. Makes me think about dusting off my trusty Hobart Handler, putting on some long sleeves, donning my gloves, and .....wait, gotta run and get some metal....be right back.

 

And it’s $200 to ship them! Even with shipping and powder coating, they’re still not the most expensive out there.

 

very nice ! 4.6L or did you start de-badging it ?

 

5.7 sleeper lol.. took those badges off the first day I got it.