‘01 SR5 died while running and now crank no start

After it died the first time it read like 11.52v so I charged it. After dying the 2nd time, I just checked and it reads 12.01v.

I didn’t suspect the battery because it’s fairly new (October/Most expensive Duralast from AutoZone), none of my lights are dim, and it was able to start and run for a bit before dying.

I got the low readings on both occasions AFTER multiple starting attempts. I figured the low numbers are a result of cranking without starting. I’m going to run out there again, remove battery to charge it up again. If it starts up, I will use voltmeter to get reading while running to see if alternator is doing it’s job and giving me 14.7v.

 

Pull the fuse, or fuses, for the remote start. You have an electrical problem, it does not sound like the battery or alternator are culprits.

 

I think you might have a bad battery.

 

I don’t know, doesn’t sound like battery or the remote start to me, sounds more like a fuel issue.
I suspect something related to the pump, but you could also start with a new fuel filter, if it hasn’t been done it can’t hurt. Maybe it’s a bit plugged, enough fuel eventually get worked past to start and idle, but then when you try to go it run out.

 

Pop the fuel line and see if it comes out with force (not running, watch your eyes) chances are if you have a working fuel pump, you should get a decent amount of fuel just popping off the line.



I had an issue exactly like your describing and it was the aftermarket remote start all corroded. Fixed the offending wires and everything was back to normal.

 

Slippage on ice and then the engine cut off suggests a Connection/Wire Got Janked somewhere.

Second try down the driveway after New Plugs and rolling wheels and then the cut off at the same spot suggests there may be some Bad Mojo on that section of concrete. Recco new driveway or driving around that spot.

 

Battery is currently charging. I went to check it’s voltage this morning and it was at 11.54v, which is a drop from last night’s 12.01v. It pretty much dropped .53v just sitting there overnight.

I did go underneath the truck to check out the fuel filter. It def needs to be replaced, going to Toyota now.

Once battery is charged and I can get it started, I will listen to hear if fuel pump is priming.

As far as the fuses for remote start goes, I didn’t install them, but are these it? Sorry for bad pic, but “A” is a row of yellow fuses and B is an isolated blue fuse. This is behind the panel to the left of emergency brake.

 

I’m about to change the fuel filter, because I noticed it’s in bad shape. Can I just go off checking fuel at the filter, or should I check for fuel at the fuel supply line near the engine?

also, if the pic I posted in the above post, is that the harness you speak of? It’s located behind kick panel to the left of emergency brake. From what I can see, it still looks brand new

 

yea those fuses are for a remote start.



that fuel filter looks rough. but be warned theres a good chance the fuel lines not going to be happy
if you can get that line off and get good amount of fuel spray, you likely have an ok fuel pump

 

I just sprayed it with some pb blast. Any tips for removal so I don’t mess up the lines?

 

Go slow and make sure the lines not bending with the nut while you remove it.

 

What is stated here

 

This place is so helpful. Love everyone jumping in to solve this.

 

This is Hurtsville right here.

 

And use line wrenches.

 

Battery charged up to 12.61v and got it started and running. I can shut it off and turn it back on again using my remote start and my key, no prob. It’s been idling smooth at between 712 and 760rpm in my driveway for the past 20 minutes.

I haven’t tried backing out of the driveway yet, because I am scared if it dies I’m going to have to ask my neighbor for the 3rd time to help me push.

I have a repair manual and they said to test the fuel pump, to put my finger on this screw and if it’s pulsating up and down, it means it’s working. It is pulsating up and down, so I guess that rules out fuel pump.

I haven’t changed out the fuel filter yet, but I’ve been banging on it with my ratchet to see if any bumps would shake anything loose and stall the engine, but nothing happens.

I was able to hook up my scanner and I have zero codes and zero pending. Anything else I should check before I try to back up out of driveway?

 

Make sure you PB soak it a few times and slow wrench it back and forth until it loosens up and also make sure you use a 6 pt flare wrench (line wrench).

 

Have you tried reving it up while parked? Maybe hold a sustained rpm for a bit and see if it keeps running?

 

@Darkness
I think she needs an Italian tune up! (My voice to text first wrote that as Italian Tuna!)

 

There is a fuel cutoff built into the vehicle. If the vehicle thinks you were involved in a collision, it will kill the fuel pump. Turning the vehicle completely off and back on will normally reset this. The Viper remote start also is able to turn off the vehicle after remote starting. Maybe it's turning the vehicle off for some reason. Both of these pathways make more sense to me than a fuel filter or a spark plug being your issue. Check the Viper alarm pathway first, it is the most likely cause of any starting and running related issues when these arise. Find a location that you can check power to the fuel pump and if this happens again, check to see if the fuel pump is powered when you aren't able to start it. Not sure that the tire slipping on ice part of the story is more than just coincidence.

 

No updates on repairing fuel filter today because I am still waiting on line wrenches. In the meantime, I have been spraying fuel filter bolts with pb blast everyday.

If I have a tough time with rust, can I just cut and patch with rubber hose until I make it to a shop for new lines?

I was able to start the car today no problem. Still haven’t driven it down the road, but I have been able to drive up and down my driveway without it stalling. Battery and alternator voltage are good. They are no longer suspects

I also did a visual inspection of the remote start and alarm system (Viper 5606V). All but 1 wire looked clean and good. The 1 wire (white/blue) didn’t have a broken connection but had exposed copper. I went ahead and tightly wound it in electric tape.

The yellow fuses and blue fuses were still good. I checked them for continuity.

Tomorrow I will check crank position sensor, fuel pump relay, and ignition system ground.

As far as fuel pump priming sound, it’s going to come from the gas tank area, right? The only noise I hear is an electrical hum from the engine when the key is in “on” position.

 

Pic of the exposed wire mentioned in above post.

 

Hit those exposed filter threads with a wire brush to get the scale off. Then do the previously mentioned loosen couple turns, then tighten back a couple. This will loosen some scale in the grooves, brush this scale away as you go or it will build up in the threads and jam it up. Patience is key.

 

If you have a double flaring tool you can, but clamping on to straight lines could be a problem. Fuel pressure could force the hose off the steel line. Flaring the line give the clamps some grip. This video gives some good advice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fmF9mm3hsM

 

I’m guessing bad fuel pump. I’m reading reviews how our Same Model # Pumps on the other Toy Vehicles are going bad around 180-220k miles.

Considering changing mine this Summer.

 

Are the pumps causing intermittent stalling? While the car was running the other day, I pulled the fuel pump relay and let it die. I tried to simulate pump failure and it didn’t stall like how it has in the past. After I pulled the relay, it choked and died. When it stalled, it was instant like how manual transmission stalls.

I checked my battery voltage today, it was at 12.1v @ 30F. It was able to start, but it was 12.5 yesterday when I checked.

tomorrow I will be checking the crank and cam position sensors. If the battery voltage drops over night again, I will also take that in for a warranty replacement. Maybe the cold cranking amps is low and that’s why the battery dies so quickly after a couple cranking attempts??

pb blast sprayed again today. Order 14mm and 19mm 6pt snap on flare wrenches for oem fuel filter replacement.

 

I have no idea. I am guessing.

Do a search on signs of bad fuel pumps.

 

I am starting to think if your fuel pump was bad that would be it, there would be no idling in the driveway. The only time I’ve ever experienced what you are is when my old 93 Toyota pickup was doing this and eventually I found a wiring harness that fell onto the top of my catalytic converter and melted wires shorting my truck out.

 

My money says it’s something funky with the remote starter causing it to cut out. I would try to rule that out first myself.

 

Take it to a good mechanic see if they can figure it out. Chances are its something totally random