What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/custom-battery-hold-down-brackets-for-1st-gen.67066/

 

Finished up the rears and the new brake lines.
Maybe some of the pros can help out. I got everything the way it should be but the rear adjusters aren’t moving when I work the parking brake arm, I don’t see where I missed anything. Is this why a lot of people say the auto adjusters don’t usually work?

 

They are side specific. One side clockwise. The other counter. We have them proper?

 

Another member reinstalled his originals backwards and they didn’t self adjust.

 

I did them one side at a time, so I’m pretty sure I have them proper(I can still adjust them out and hear the clicks, and it won’t spin the other way due to the ratcheting system, so I believe they are proper)
It’s almost like it’s not getting enough down travel on the adjuster to clear the racket finger to get it to click, but I don’t see how/wear to correct that

 

Did you swoop under the bottom guide with the inner drum cable?

Goofy mechanic that did mine went straight across and the reason I could never get the adjustment proper until discovery when re-doing brakes.

 

Yeah I went under.
Are you able to get yours to click with the drums off?
My buddy said it might be because the shoes and everything is moving to much to get that Lil wheel to move enough to grab and turn. So I’ll try slapping drums on later and see

 

Never tried with the drums off using the pedal. Just did the hand click to make sure things were loose and moving. Put the drums on and everything worked. I could hear the drums click separately and set with the door open when setting pedal for first time.

 

So it appears we have some different parts on our rears for some reason, but I looked in my fsm and it basically matched yours.
After looking on your build page; So on yours the self adjuster is attached to the same shoe as the parking brake lever and the self adjuster is in front of the star wheel. And attached to the same pivot as the parking brake
On mine, and all the other videos I watched, I have no eclip, and my self adjuster is behind the star wheel, and pivots from the opposite side as the parking brake lever.



I got both sides adjusted out as far as I’d like to go for now, wheels torqued and on all 4 for the night
Would you mind refreshing my brain with the bleed out order again?

 

Pass rear, Load Prop Valve, Driver rear, Pass front, Driver front.

Avg. Pumps to fresh fluid at each location: 25, 20, 20, 15, 15.

 

Yeah that’s the exact picture I was looking at. It’s also interesting your rear shoe doesn’t have the pin for that auto adjuster lever. I wonder what year it changed(I even downloaded the 05-06 fsm)

 

Not sure, but the FSM pic I posted and used for my brake job was from 03. Wire that paper off the axle hub. Its killing me.

 

So excited to share my progress with you guys. Got stuff done on the engine rebuild the past few days, here's what.

•Painted the engine block. A missed opportunity to go with neon orange or green.



I took a day properly preparing the surfaces by wire-wheeling with different sized brushes, scuffing up the rest of the rust with Scotch Brite pads, vacuuming the dust, cleaning with alcohol, and finally taping off areas to prevent overspray. I swear by Duplicolor high heat engine paints, and I layed down some nice coats of their primer, enamel, and clear coat per their specific instructions. I thought the clear coat would be a waste, as there's no UV rays under the hood, but it actually makes paint last longer as an extra protectant. I really like how the black on the top turned out!



•Removed the upper oil pan for cleaning and resealing. It's that large piece the oil pan attaches to, not sure what it's actually called.



I noticed its gasket material was old and brittle with some pieces actually coming off inside the pan. Restoring it was probably overkill; still, I don't want any more problems down the road. Dumb Dumb Moment #1, I painted it separately instead of when it was on the block. Hurray for extra steps. The picture only shows post-cleaning, I'll take another when it's all put together.

•Removed rust from the cylinder walls. SB pads once again, doing the trick. No pics because it's not 100% yet. While we're not dealing with microchips here, I couldn't help thinking precision matters and screwups now would affect tens of millions of revolutions. (Someone can do the math.)

•Replaced a single expansion plug. Yep, just one. I bought the whole set because I thought I'd do them all as preventative maintenance. Seeing that just one was a PITA, I decided against that. Listen, these things are IN THERE. Really hammered the old one to get it out, I think I'll be fine leaving the rest of the original freeze plugs and they're not going to spontaneously fall out. They also do not rust. I applied RTV around the new one and placed a similar-sized socket over it to be easily pounded in. I'll sell the rest.

•Cleaned and prepared front of engine.

Before:


The water pump gasket surface had rust and that whole area just needed a restoration, I guess when my friend and I replaced the timing belt two years ago we weren't meticulous. Looks good now and is ready for all the parts.

After:


•Restored the rear main seal plate and replaced the seal.



These aluminum parts sure do clean up nicely, don't they? Still been doing the oven cleaner, dish brush, and spray bottle water technique.

Did have trouble getting the seal out when the plate was still on the engine, so if anyone ever tackles the ambitious rear main seal job, the seal will pop right out with the plate off. I removed about 90% of the carbon buildup and prepared the surfaces (the bottom mates to the upper oil pan piece). A little white lithium grease on the seal will help the crank move against it. Also, Dumb-Dumb #2 Moment. A piece of the plate had cracked off when I tried to pry it from the engine, while unbeknownst to me, two bolts hold it securely through the oil pan. Everything will operate fine without the piece as it's a non-mating surface. Oops though.

The machine shop will hopefully finish the heads tomorrow, I'll pick up the new head bolts on the way, and then everything is mostly reassembly from here minus preparing the head gasket surface! My biggest concerns are getting the timing perfect (with heads being off and me moving the crank around for cleaning), and also finding torque specs for all the front engine stuff.

Been really thankful for the support so far, especially from @Stuck in the '00s , @Professional Hand Model , and @empty_lord . Everyone on here rocks.

 

@theblurry1 Really nice job. My OCD appreciates the attention to detail. That block looks so much better. Have you found any good resources outside this forum that have helped you or have you just been figuring things out as you go? I remember reading another guy on ihatemud say that hardly anyone has ever rebuilt the 2UZ-FE because they almost never fail. He had a hard time finding any info about it online. His son destroyed his engine by sucking water into it. They rebuilt it though. I saw one other you guy do the same thing and he and his buddy rebuilt it, and documented some of the process on Youtube. You've probably seen that video.

How much longer do you think you'll have to work on it?

 

Where is the plug exactly? I have my back plastic off so now is the time I assume?

 

Thank you sir, thank you.

•Someone kind, I don't remember who, gave me a PDF of the Toyota Factory Service manual, all 2000-something pages, and that's been an integral resource for the more technical aspects like head disassembly/reassembly. I'd say it's the only fully authoritative resource.
•YouTube has some good videos on our truck's front engine stuff like timing belt kit and seals.
•For general topics, like getting rust out of cylinders or preparing a block for head gasket, the Internet and YT have been general resources.
•Everyday Outdoor, the guy who rebuilt his 2UZ-FE, his video was more of a montage than a tutorial; I did see it and realized snorkels may indeed have a purpose. I actually did reach out to him and got a few questions answered, really cool dude.
•This forum, especially older threads that can be dug up, has some excellent info (and people, obviously). It's useful for figuring out if, say, oil pumps, have failed on members.

As for completion time, this week is going to be a grind week for sure, I even took an extra day off for the project. I'm hoping by next weekend I'll at least have the engine in the truck, if not fully hooked back up.

 

@Tundra2 - 4000 post in a little over 2 years = 5.4 post a day. You're killing it dude

 

This is what happens when you have no friends, and there ain't shit to do in a small town.

Being a 3rd shifter helps.

 

I’m glad you enjoy your time here, we all enjoy your stories and videos

 

Wiped down the door seals with 303 aerospace so the doors won’t freeze to the seals in the freezing rain outside.

 

I'm glad that others enjoy my stories. I'm happy to share them when I have time. I know I can be overbearing, and post heavy. It's something I've been working on, and not really sure if I've made a difference there or not.

I'm glad to hear that my videos are enjoyed by at least one member.

Nothing here to do. Safely.

There's blow here, but it took me forever to quit smoking. I can't imagine being hooked on something hard core.

 

@theblurry1 That rebuild is looking so fresh and so clean clean.

 

LED Dome light finally came in (sat). Required slight bending of contacts but it works. Pulled it off the truck and fitted it while inside the house.


Pulled the cluster and wet sanded the majority of the color. Gently removed the odometer LCD and replaced the green backing with a clear piece cut from packaging.




Skipped the gear (PRND32) indicator area, but I will probably pull it and do it later. I also sharpied the backside of the kmh portion. Not 100% sure I'll keep it that way.

 

wow.. i genuinely didn't know that screen came off like that.. i figured it was soldered.. my tacomas they re screwed in and that's also the ODO circuit.. so swapping the screen also swapped mileage

 

Battery is dead on the tundra.. guess I’ll be buying the x2 battery sooner than I thought

probably do It once the weather breaks. I can jump it if I nerve to move it. It’s just sitting right now anyway

 

Are you planning on doing the alternator diode booster thingy, or just put on a charger every once in a while?
Supposedly our alternator doesn’t put out enough to top off the AGM type battery fully