What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I have the nfab bars. The finish on them sucks, they're super slippery in the rain, and the hoops are more stylish than functional if you have larger feet.

 

Where are you guys getting those trd battery straps? My current battery tie down is getting crusty again and I don't feel like repainting it again lol.

I have a pair of trac-grabbers in my truck at all times. They helped me out a lot in the sand, snow, and mud back in my 2wd days. They were like $60 when I originally bought them. The price seems to have gone up.

$72 TRACGRABBER Tire Traction Device for Trucks & Large SUVs, Set of 2 -Made in The USA, Anti Skid Emergency Tire Straps to Get Unstuck from Snow, Mud, & Sand -Snow Traction Mat or Tire Chain Alternative

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O5BVMJ...abc_FS4NGPSV5FV6K91XGVFE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

There available in the buy/sell/trade 1st gen marketplace

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/custom-battery-hold-down-brackets-for-1st-gen.67066/

 

I was thinking about just taking cheaper route of soaking my battery bracket in muriatic acid for the weekend and repainting it after I rinse it off and let it dry.

 

hmm. Superbowl today.. dont give a shit about it. BUT you might finally see a commercial for a new tundra....

just speculation. we shall see

 

Yeah. Same here. Been taking a knee for a couple years. I wonder how big the new Turd will be?

 

Likely same size as 2nd gen.

 

Going to ve a few weeks before I can build a box. I decided while I'm at it I might replace my carpet with vinyl.

The sub looks pretty nice, haven't heard it yet and I'm used to subs with giant magnets. This one is totally different to me.

 

I've been dragging my feet the last couple years. I've been going to replace my open diff with the detroit truetrac. Now I can't find one for the first gen. Did they quit production for the first gen?

 

Tundra uses the same rear-end as T100....call ECGS to confirm though....

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-14297317-toyota-tacoma-t100-rear-detroit-truetrac-913a541.html

 

Feel kind of silly now, not sure what I was doing when I was looking for it the other day. Thanks for getting my head screwed on right. Have you bought from ECGS?

 

For what its worth I have an Aussie Locker in my Tacoma as I found it to be way less harsh and engages/disengages more responsively than the Detroit did. Its been a decade since I did all the comparison driving othe people's rigs in Socal to make my choice but ive had zero regrets and zero issue

 

Intake manifold is all restored and assembled (please excuse the clutter, working area is very small in the garage I share and gets messy every 5 minutes). Got all the bolts in the right places and torqued down in a cross-pattern. I lubed anything rubber with silicone lubricant to prevent splitting any seals. I still need to apply dielectric grease to the new 12-hole injector plugs, otherwise everything else that needs to be connected is under the hood.


Also, major victory: got the cylinder heads off!!!


Originally I was hung up on the cam pulley bolts, then my friend's fancy Dewalt impact got them off in .5 seconds. I was so mad. Time to upgrade to a 1/2 impact. After that the heads came off pretty quickly and easily. The FSM tells you the order of removing the bolts for minimum warpage.

I will not be doing a head gasket replacement tutorial thread because 1) I am not a mechanic and this truck is my first major auto project, 2) I am sending the heads off to a machine shop to have them professionally checked, cleaned, and resurfaced while the valves get cleaned, lapped, new seals, etc. The shop recommends this "rebuilding the heads" when mileage is as high as mine, and I did notice some oil all over one side of the gasket, and the insides of the heads are filthy. Although it will cost about $700, I'll have peace of mind it has been done right, and plus the shop route will be quicker. If I wasn't borrowing someone's car and this space, I'd take my time with a comprehensive rebuild and do much of the head work myself. Alas, I'll keep you guys updated. I think I need to order new head bolts; just for laughs I measured mine with the calipers (@Professional Hand Model would be proud) and got 9.6mm. The FSM says replace them if they are not between 9.7-9.9mm. That's $160 lol.

Two questions.

•While the engine is on the stand, would you guys recommend pulling off the oil pan (an otherwise 16 hour job) to clean out the "Sump Windage Tray" aka strainer? I'd have to clean off the old gasket material and apply new Permatex RTV as our rigs do not have an oil pan gasket. I could then easily repaint the pan too. To complete the job I have a new drain plug coming (old one is beaten up) and the plug gasket some lazy previous owner must have lost. Let me know if there's anything else I should tackle. I've got almost all new seals coming and will be restoring the block over the next few days.

•The gas has been sitting in the truck for almost 4 months now. Anyone feel free to chime in on whether I should siphon it out and replace, or pour in some kind of stabilizer like I should have done early on. I don't remember how much is in there and I can't check for awhile. Just thinking ahead to potential problems before the grand day I start up the newly-restored engine.

Also please someone else do major work on your truck so I don't feel like the boldest one. Haha kidding. Someday I'll be back to the little detail projects.

 

Nice work @theblurry1

Might as well go all in and do the Oil Pump and Pan Gaskets. You’ll be happy you did once everything is put back.

 

https://youtu.be/6MwEbolf278

 

Soul said it needed some nature. Went to the usual spots to commune with Gaia.

 

Same. We hiked part of the Appalachian Trail yesterday in order to play in the snow.

 

Looks sweetness. I miss snow.

Found my board so I'm back in business with rear weight. Need to price out some railroad ties, and gravel. Need to clean that shit hole up.

 

No worries. I have not bought from them, but I've only ever heard good things about them from those who have...

 

Do me a favor and throw a couple ratchet straps around those guys and anchor them to the bed. Last thing you want is those blocks flying around if you have an accident.

 

This^^^

 

Chief Rising with Mists approves of this message.

 

Great job, blurry! You're half-way to a complete rebuild...
How many miles??
$700 for a pair of fresh heads doesn't sound too bad.
My recommendation is to pull the pan and have a look-see, at minimum.
(I'm assuming you're not going to touch the bearings and rings, right?)
If you can afford to replace the oil pump, do it.
Looking at the tops of the pistons, I'd clean them and the cylinder walls, too.
Paint the block while you're at it.

Gas is nearing borderline. I'd toss in a little Sta-bil first with a little bit of fresh gas and wait to fire it up to see if you need to drain it.

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

Thank you PHM!!! Replace the oil pump, or just its gasket? I've never heard of an oil pump going out on the 4.7. I am definitely going to remove the pan just to pay attention to detail and while it's accessible.

Hey I appreciate your reply! You're so right, it's almost going to be a full rebuild. It has 263K miles. I'm glad the shop quote isn't too bad; I wasn't sure since I've never gotten machine work done. And good call, I am going to pull the pan today then.
•Also, yes, I will not be touching the bearings and rings---my work stops there during this time crunch and I don't think they need to be done. The piston tops will definitely be cleaned of their crud, though. Any tips on how to do that? I have the timing at TDC and I'm afraid to turn the crank shaft to bring each piston to the top if it will bring everything out of timing.
•Cylinder walls have some surface rust I will absolutely remove, I was thinking about buying one of those flex-hone drill attachments for the job and carefully remove the thin layer (I know clearances for cylinders are precise). I'll oil the pistons with assembly lube afterwards to make sure they don't get hydro-locked from when I got a little water in there after cleaning (hence the rust).
•I can't find evidence that an oil pump has gone out on the 4.7, ever. Although the Aisin one is only about $90, I just don't know if replacement's worthwhile.
•Block will for sure be restored. I am gonna get some oven cleaner as I heard that cuts through this kind of grease even better than degreaser.
•Sta-bil and fresh gas for the tank, it is!

Again, I value that reply. Will definitely keep y'all posted.

 

I'm curious about this too. I asked in the past but no one seemed to have an opinion. I've only seen guys on Tacomaworld talk about oil pump failures ruining their engines on the 3.5L but it doesn't seem that common. @empty_lord might have some advice.

 

Never seen one personally. But it can happen. The 3.5 ones are failing from people running the trucks at too steep of an angle.

 

The catback I was running was way too loud to comfortably daily drive. I ended up buying a flowmaster chambered muffler to slap in right before the primary muffler. It's much more tolerable to drive.

The electronic exhaust cutout I have is still horrendously loud when I open it. Especially now since there aren't any cats before it. I'll take a pic of the spaghetti of an exhaust system I have if anyone would get a kick out of it.

The weather was nice enough I decided to finally clean off the mud and crud. I really want to wax it, but I need to wait until like April for the shell's paint to be cured enough.

I also ordered new UBJs and Siberian polyurethane bushings for the lower control arms since what I have currently is cooked.

 

Hey PHM,
I'm sorry to break the news, but Yeti man moved recently.

Now I don't have any window admirers.

 

Added the FM antenna adapter, usb adapter and an external USB port to my 86 radio conversion.

Found a port that dropped in place of a stock power outlet, after putting 3 layers of heat shrink around it. I used the side that had a broken cover, if the cover wasn't broken it would close over it.




Started converting some interior lights to LED. These ones don't work great (too dim). I have others on the way.