Replace cam bolts before issues arise?

Hey All
My 2018 DC long bed with 13 K on it is getting the Toytec Aluma 2.0 kit and SPC UCA's this weekend.
I've been reading about the stock LCA cam bolts freezing up and leading to bigger problems ultimately.
I have SPC cam bolt kits for both sides in my pile of goodies.

Would you go to the effort to replace the stockers with these now, or wait to see if they have problems during alignment?
Also, the kit says to adjust for maximum camber prior to alignment, but the washers have no markings - not sure how to do this (maybe it will be obvious once I replace them...).

any opinions or advice is much appreciated.
Cheers
Bob

 

I wouldn’t think you or the alignment shop would have any problems with them right now or any time soon unless you have a rust issue. With that being said I have heard if you are installing the lift just pull one side out at a time and apply some anti-seize. I just lifted my wife’s 19 4Runner and left them alone.
Maybe somebody will have a more definite answer for you.


Welcome by the way.

 

I'd be very interested if anyone has had bad experiences with these SPC cam bolts...
Thanks for the welcome Juanjoolio007.
Looking forward to posting pics of my rig and the new lift!

 

Any updates on said TT 2.0 Lift? Good luck.

 

I had mine replaced on my 2018 within the first 10k miles. The little notch wore off and broke from adjustments after my lift was installed. The SPC’s are made better in my mind.

 

Install is going good. The SPC UCA s are installed (using the SPC washers), Aluma 2.0 coilovers installed.
Need to figure out a good way to re-attached the wheel sensor wire, might have t ditch the bracket and zip tie or something.
The four lower cam bolts are loosened and I'm about to slide under and replace them with the SPC bolts now
The put on the wheels, drive up on ramps and torque away.

 

I did replace the stock bolt setup with the SPC kit and glad I did. The stock bolts were tough to remove, even on a 2 year old truck with just 13K.
The stock design looks easy to overcome (destroy) at 200 fl/lbs of torque when rusted in. Look at the little slot in pic 2, this design is supposed to hold up when they align your truck and its all rusted in.
Sorry no pics of the SPC bolts, they installed now (check out the net).
The SPC design looks more robust in terms of overcoming frozen bolts when adjusting the LCA camber bolts.
If you're OCD then mark your stock setup and pull stock stuff out and clean it up and coat with anti-seize.
Another job I don't look forward to doing again.

 

Hey Bob,
I’m thinking of doing the same. Mine’s a 2015 from the Midwest, so I have to assume the bolts are rusted in for sure. Have you had any issues? I’m new to all this and don’t like surprises. Am I right that there’s a bolt for toe adjustment? Did you replace that as well?
Thanks.

 

Hey B-50 (wish I had one)
My bolts and sleeves came out pretty easy. This was strictly preventive for me as I was doing a lift tear down at the same time. You may have to rent a C-frame press from parts store push out the sleeves...
These bolts are for caster and camber adjustments. Toe is adjusted at the outer / inner tie rod interface, you can see the threads, spray with something before attempting to adjust.
I think most folks have problems with the metal sleeve on the bigger bolt getting seized to the rubber bushing? Or maybe the bolt gets seized to the sleeve - but I would think you could pound that out??? The SPC kit has a plastic sleeve so it will never rust.
I coated the SPC bolts, washers, and sleeves with anti-seize on install as instructed (not the threads though - instructions say not to coat the threads). The SPC kit is every bit as stout as the stock parts - same or very similar torque specs too.
After shop alignment I checked the torque and it was way low, I'm guessing 100 ft lbs, should be ~200, glad I did that.
With a new truck you could just mark the cam washer orientation, remove the bolt assemblies one at a time and coat them with anti-seize and put them back in, and I think they would be just fine. I coated my stock pieces with fluid film and bagged them for future needs.
Be sure you loosen the proper nut / bolt (front and back are different) take a good look at it before you start wrenching. Don't attempt to break-free anything that is molded to a cam-washer - this is the quickest way to strip out the pieces. Do put a back up wrench on the cam-washer piece when breaking free the other side. Check out the pics. As stated, just take a good look before hanging on the breaker bar.
Take some pics of your hardware after removal!
Cheers
Bob

 

Bob,
Wow, thanks for the quick and detailed response. Really appreciate it.

 

Hi Bob,
Total noob question here but when you mentioned about marking the orientation of the cam washer on new trucks, where or how do you mark it at? I’m assuming that the cam washer shouldn’t be move so if I make a mark on the washer and frame before loosening the bolt, is that enough? Afterwards, I just have to make sure the marking on the cam washer and frame are align before tightening the bolt right?

 

If you are just removing the stock parts for a lube and re-install, then a simple witness mark on the cam washer and frame is good (paint marker, or what ever). Might be a good idea to put a mark across the LCA and frame too. Definitely do the bolts one at a time too, if not planning an alignment.
Use a wrench or socket on both sides of the bolt / nut, and you should be able to get the bolts out without ever moving the LCA. Spray those suckers with penetrating lube a couple days before jumping on it!

 

Thanks Bob.

The reason why I ask how to mark the cam washer is not only to lube the stock cam bolts but also to loosen the LCA to install new suspension. I know this isn’t the thread for what I’m doing but just wanted to know how to mark those cam washers. I will get an alignment after driving on the new suspension for a couple hundred miles to let it settle in. I just don’t want to make the alignment way off after installing the new suspension and drive on it for a couple hundred miles.

Thanks again. Have a great weekend.