Starting suspension work...

Would like your opinions on this. This side was actually really clean but the threads on the axel have fine rust particles on them. Nothing else front or back had any rust. Why would this portion be rusted and should I replace the axel/ any other parts cause of this?

I got a “new” axel for the damaged passenger side axel from a junk yard for $100. Another $100 for the driver side won’t break the bank.

Was thinking just clean it up but I find it odd this is the only section with any kind of rust.

 

I had already taken the pin out. Missed your input b4. Appreciated bud

 

I’d suspect some sort of moisture got in there somehow....as long as there is no noticeable damage, I’d just clean it up and keep on going.

 

That’s what I figured too but maybe a gasket or something might be messed up?... rust location is specific to that area and, it’s an area I wouldn’t think is exposed to the elements. Just strange

 

Bearings have rustiness? Maybe from them?

 

Funny indeed! I just did the same thing while removing the spindle to replace the bearing. Snapped the abs sensor right off, even after reading your post first and being VERY careful!

Q: Did you use the OEM sensor (very pricey!) or did you use an aftermarket part? And if so, which one? Did it work?

 

Sorry it happened to you too! Heck yeah they’re pricey!
I just grabbed a cheap $9 one off of Amazon because I didn’t want to wait very long:
AUTEX 1pc ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Left ALS664 89543-0C010 5S6827 SU8327

GRQV-1007282248

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DNHYDB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WKCJFbR696CNN

couple hundred miles on it and it still works. It’s nice that it was complete (minus the bolts which I had to buy some anyway after snapping a few).

We’ll see down the road though

 

Awesome...thanks!

 

You’re welcome and Good luck! Reminded me that I need to get new push clips and dust shield(s) that need to be removed in order to access the rest of the cable! Who knew 16 year old plastic/rubber would tear so easily

 

Cleaning those splines and applying some grease on it would be fine. But as PHM mentioned, check that bearing, it's likely the source of that rust.

 

That's a beautiful work of art!

 

water intrusion from wheel speed sensor or there is a gap between the oil seal and the knuckle where it mates to the cv. Either way that would warrant a thorough inspection of the bearing

 

Hey all, appreciate the feed back. I checked all the seals and they seemed fine.

@10 blue trucks, I’m not really sure where the speed sensor is but I’ll find out and look into it.

I was planning on just cleaning it up and reinstalling since I couldn’t find a gasket that could’ve caused a leak but once I put the high angle CV boot on and did a hand test, I think maybe my driver side axel might be messed up. It kept locking up in different locations when I was testing it by hand/working the new grease into it. The passenger side didn’t stick like this.

I’m ready to bolt everything back up but really considering getting another axel from a junk yard. At some point the inner CV boot had been worked on in the past because the clamp wasn’t the original Toyota clamp. Have some hesitation of just reinstalling as is now...

 

Everything else is clean, no rust anywhere else.

 

Post 15 in this thread, pic 1 is the sensor installed. Pic2 shows the hole in the knuckle where that sensor fits in. Direct access to the knuckle innards/bearing/splines.

 

Oh, that’s the speed sensor. It was in there tight. Tighter than passenger side even.

I’ll put everything back together for now and buy an axel from a junk yard for back up. At least now I know how to replace it if need be.

Appreciate the guidance! I’ll keep y’all posted on progress.

 

Have everything torqued and I find this in my oil pan... think it might’ve fallen off when I removed the axel? Anyone know what this part is?

 

Ohhh mannn. Gotta take everything apart again. Checked the axel I replaced...

 

Damn dude, you working in dirt? At least throw some cardboard down

 

No, just where the old axel is

 

I hate it when that happens.

 

It hurts but time to take it apart again

 

All done. Driver side is exactly 1” lower than passenger side.

correction, 3/4” lower. It’ll get adjusted

 

Just hit me/just noticed, there’s kind of a lean on my driver side coilover Vs spindle but passenger was pretty straight. Is this normal???

 

you have more preload on the driver side coil. likely comes that way to avoid the typical toyota left lean

 

Think he's referring to the angle of the coilover itself. Looks to be almost straight up and down on the passenger side, but has more tilt on the drivers.

 

LOOKS GOOD FROM MY HOUSE!

 

The uniball allows a lot of movement and it looks like the driver's side uniball is at more of an angle, I wonder if it will straighten out once the weight of the truck is on it

 

Why not just get a new axel? Pricing seems to be in the 75.00 range for aftermarket ones... new, not remanned... comes with boots and clamps installed with grease packs to add...

 

Hi all, been sick for a while but finally feeling better! Not covid

@empty_lord the driver side does have more preload but still sitting almost 1” lower. Called king and they said the alignment might help... we’ll see soon enough.

@KNABORES yup that’s what I was referring to. Seems a bit off but I think it might just be the angle of the pic. Or maybe the alignment like King mentioned.

@rock climber I put tires back on and weight on it to measure.

After talking to king, realized there’s actually a 2” difference front and back on my truck. I always thought it was 1” but failed to realize its 1” because of the TRD Springs. Now I need to lower my springs to get a somewhat level truck cause leafs are 1.5” lift and thanks to @Darkness, got total Chaos shackles which lower 3/4”. You mentioned this a while back in another thread, man am I glad I remembered you talking about it. I was bummed my rear was going to be so much higher than front.

Planning on replacing springs this weekend. Once they’re in, the front end should sit differently than now and I’ll have a much better idea of exactly how much lower the driver side is vs passenger. Read things change once the entire suspension is complete.