Tundras live: Agree to disagree (a lesson in civility)

Went to the gun range today. Saw this cool land cruiser with little lift and some TRD wheels and some A/Ts

 

Ok. So here's the next question (forgive my ignorance, as i'm just getting acquainted with this world of builds)...
I get the ratings of tires and what they perform best in, but what do the size numbers refer to? From the info i've read it would seem the 295(or whatever number) refers to the width of the tire. The higher the number the fatter the sidewall to sidewall it is (more "bubbled" look). And, obviously, the 18 refers to wheel size. What does the middle number (ie. 70) refer to?

The reason i ask is because i'm lifting Thursday and am in no position to go with new wheels and tires at the same time. I really want some of the SCS wheels but sizes are limited. I don't want 20s and am good with 18s but the only 18 they make are the SR8, from what i understand, which i love though inventory is limited. Can i go down to a 17 and go bigger on the tire? I really like the F5s and the Stealth 6s but can't get them in 18s.

Like i said, inventory is limited and i can wait. That being said...if i keep the stock 18s on and purchase a good tire will i be able to transfer them later to the Stealth wheel if it's an 18? I've looked at a ton of wheels and am really partial to the SCS's but have a backup plan if they never become available in what i want.

Bottom line, if i purchase a tire that fills the well after i lift in this week will i be able to switch any tire that fits the stock wheel to another wheel that i purchase? I'm assuming that because most of the 18's come in an 18x9 then my stock wheel is an 18x9 and the tires will be transferrable.

These are lots of questions but that's where i am. If any of you guys could point me in the right direction on some of this i would appreciate it...even if you say "here's the link....AGAIN."

 

That's a great explanation graphic. THANKS! So...am i correct to assume that all wheels that are "18" are universal to any 18 tire? And that the determining factor to whether it's going to fit my truck depends on the lift, the mods underneath, the body dimensions in the wheel well, and the width and height sizes?

 

Yes you can transfer and 18" tire from your current wheels to new wheels as long as they are 18". And also correct that the size of the tire depends on all those factors such as lift height, wheel well, etc. Also, don't forget to take into account the wheel offset. Are you staying with OEM +60 or going to a different offset? That also has a huge impact on whether or not it will fit as well.

 

So, if i'm hearing you correctly... if i change the offset to extend out at all then a larger tire has a tougher time fitting due to the wheel well and body (which can be chopped unless too dramatic). If the offset is too dramatic then it limits the size of the tire. Would that be width or height that would need to be addressed? Both?

I'll tell you my set up: 3 in BOSS and i'm loving the SCS Sr8s that have a bs of 6 and +25 offset. Is that going to push me out too far if i run 35s?
What if i was to go down to a 17 in wheel (I love the F5's and will do it if not too odd)? Is a 17 wheel even doable or looked down upon, and how would that affect the size tire i'm contemplating? What about 33's? I almost don't want too much extended out past the fender.

 

I have the boss kit and I'm running 35s on 18s with a +18 offset. Had to cut the cab mount and remove the liner on the front of the fenders for the tires to fit. 17s are not looked down upon, it will give you more room for sidewall and probably give a better ride off-road. If you don't do much off roading, 18s are a great size. +25 will stick out pretty far from the fenders, might work if you are putting fender flares. Search around and I'm sure you'll find someone with the wheel size and offset you're thinking of.

 

Adding a couple of guys here who can give more/better info @ColoradoTJ , @Sean266 , @Law323 @csuviper , @joonbug

 

I believe Vins wheels don't work on our trucks in 17's. They are set for tacomas, fjs, and 4runners which have a different hub size and bolt pattern.

 

HMMMMM. Well then the only ones he has are the SR8s without going to 20s. I shot him a message earlier today asking that exact question. Haven't heard back but if that's the case then I'm either going with the SR8s or my backup plan.

Thanks for that info.

 

Does a 17 clear the caliper?

 

??? Do elaborate good sir

 

35's on 18s or 17s is exactly the same, assuming they're the same width and offset. But keep in mind, they round up on 35's so a lot of 35's are actually like 34.5". Check out the manufacturer to see actual size. The higher the offset (more tucked in) the less rubbing you'll have in the wheel wells. If it's too high like our stock wheels (+60), it'll be very tucked in and you can hit your upper control arm. And it's also not aggressive enough looking for most folks. A good middle ground seems to be between +25 and +35 on a 9" wide wheel. If you absolutely don't want to do any cutting, I'd suggest going with 34" or smaller and that still isn't guaranteed because of factors like which UCA you have and how your alignment is done. Or you can do what many of us do. Just get something around 34.5" (which includes most 35's and also 295/70/18) and cut and chop whatever's necessary after you figure out where it's rubbing. Removing the mudflap, and trimming and moving forward the liner is pretty much a must. Doing a cab mount chop seems to be around 50/50. And the CMC isn't as bad as it sounds. It's just grinding a bit where it sticks out the most and welding a piece back on. All this sounds a little overwhelming but it's not that bad and you won't regret getting too small of a tire. Here's mine. 18x9 (+25) on 295/70/18.

 

Great info. Thanks man. I'm starting to catch on and getting an idea on what i'm gonna go with. I checked out your build thread the other day and was really impressed. I've seen so many on here and specifically remember that view of your passenger rear tire exposure being just right for me. I'm gonna go with relatively the same dimensions you did. I'll be doing a different wheel and tire due to where i live but expecting something similar to yours in the end. I'll start snapping photos this week when the snow stops long enough to clean it. Again, thanks for the details. IT HELPS A TON!!

 

I think the only 17" wheels that will work are the TRD rock warrior (like @csuviper has) and Method wheels

 

@Almaboy , you saw @joonbug truck w/ +25 wheels mounted on 295s. Here's my +18 mounted on 295s just as a comparison and for reference. Remember, 25.4mm is equal to 1 inch. So, the difference between a +25 and a +18 is a tad more than a quarter of an inch (7mm pushed out more)

 

Thanks for the reference! IT HELPS a newbie make decisions. Still on the fence though. I think I like the tighter fit for me. Did you have to chop to fit? I'm looking to get away with no body chop due to not wanting fenders. I don't mind minor adjustments but I'm a fan of no fenders.

 

no, I did not have to chop the mount

 

What tires do you have on there?

 

So you know, when most people talk about cutting for tire clearance they are talking about cutting the cab mount. Not the actual body

 

Cooper Discovery STT Pro

 

Oh. That's good to know. I thought cutting away at the body where it exposes the cut areas and you had to cover with fenders or quality body shaping, which I have no skills.

 

Hey Mark you might also consider a 285/75R-18. Limited tires available but a 35" height and a little narrower. No body mount mods, but skid plate bend etc. I ran that size in a Nitto G2 before jumping to 37's.

 

My plan is to get into an aggressive A/T because of my needs and conditions I drive in. I need something that can handle hundreds of inches of snow, starting in October and lasting through May most years. @matluth suggested the Duratracs and I had already made my mind up on them before he even said it. I am looking for other suggestions if anyone has them in regards to my needs.