What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I've only seen them in red from Off Road Solutions...
https://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/high-angle-inner-cv-boot/

 

Well, I ordered CVJ 9550R CV axles. $565 later and no core refund because I don't have OEM Cvs.


Also, but some JB weld on my cracked exhaust pipe. If this holds, one of these days I may try splooge some on my leaking header as well.

 

Sold my 2004 last year. Been missing it since the buyer drove it out of my driveway. But I just got another one! 2005 double cab 4x4 limited and it just turned 100. Good to be back.

 

Finally wiring up my caddy horns I’ve had for 7 months... the relay is temporary. I’ll be installing an Eaton svec fuse box for all accessories later. Will likely run off a second smaller battery too.

 

I think I’m too new for DM’s. .

 

https://youtu.be/wB2yJ3FpNkY

 

I thought the same, had to look for a bit to notice it's a tub.

 

welcome back.

 

Did a quicky shampoo of the Tundra interior today. There was definitely a 'coffee incident' of substance at some point in it's life.
Better, but nothing good enough to post pictures of. Saw I was running out of solution for the extractor so cleaning wasn't profound. Still, it's a start.

 

I'd like to talk about that parenthetical for a second. I have rattling that I can't figure out, and this ("end links too short") has been in the back of my head for while. Anyone I've asked, though, has said "nah, that's not an issue".

I bought my truck with, I assume, the stock sway bar and end links. Replaced the bushings with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings and lifted the truck with Bilstein 5100s on the, um...<whispers> forth notch, which gave about 1.6 inches if I recall correctly. Not sure in which order I did those changes.

At some point on a particularly rough Utah trail I noticed one of the sway bar end links (and my fancy poly bushings) snapped off into the desert. (At least I was luckier than whoever nailed a rock and left the trail of oil down the middle of the "road".)

I replaced them both with MOOG end links and the bushings that came with them. I torqued the nuts down to spec, which felt way too tight, and sure enough the large washers dug into the bushings pretty fast.

I replaced the bushings, again, with polyurethane bushings, and did not torque to spec, just what I thought was tight enough, and marked with a paint pen to make sure the nut doesn't back off.

I still have a rattle that makes me feel like something big is going to fall off, but I've spent a lot of time under there staring at everything, and I don't see any problems. I'm chasing various things - loose bumper bits (that dumb resin stabilizer piece that clips into the fog light housing for one) - but I'd still like to understand with more certainty how the sway bar end link length relates to the truck lift geometry. I've seen adjustable length links out there - for 3x-5x more money, iirc, so I'm curious. Or paranoid?

 

I pulled off the panel under my steering wheel to take a look at my wiring for my light bar. Out of curiosity, I took a closer look at the ignition light and it was super hot. I happened to have extra LEDs from when I changed the floor lamp and glove box bulbs. It's really white and I like it.

After doing that, I decided I needed to pull my instrument cluster and finally sand down that green tint. I left some green because I can't change the ODO color. Still debating on how I feel, but I really like the white.

I don't think I have any bulbs left in the truck that aren't white LEDs and I'm proud of it.

 

need to get some loom. but the caddy horns are wired.. all 4 of them. decently loud. but i believe i need to use larger gauge wiring when i do the finaly harness whenever i do the eaton SVEC fuse box. I'll get a video tomorrow. dont want to piss off my neighbors at 10:30 pm

 

In the process of doing this, I also learned the stealership stripped literally every possible screw when they did the airbag recall a few months ago. The metal screws were overtightened and removed all the plastic threads in the panels. Both driver and passenger sides were absolutely hammered!

On the bright side, I have the parts on the way to begin fabbing up some quick disconnect sway bar links. I'm going to copy Brown Bear's design.

 

I need to do this... what grit did you use and was it wet sanding?

 

Uh... the dash doesn’t come apart for the airbag.. just the glove box comes out and the trim inside

 

Well I hate to break it to ya, I discovered today that I still have the parts-gonna-fall-off rattle even without my sway bar.

 

Two words FLUID FILM

 

Just a heads up for those considering CVJ axles. I was under the impression they cover return shipping on the core. They do not. It's around $25 to ship my axle back from TN. You have to request a return label.

Additionally, they only put this note one one of my two axles and I didn't see it until I opened the 2nd box. I'll have to go back and pull this tube out of the one I installed. Not a big deal but surprised me they didn't put it on both.

Also, I asked about the orange rubber band on here. They said it stays there to keep the boot from touching.

 

Sorry to hear that, but interesting. Keep me posted? And I'll do the same if I ever figure it out.

 

I read that in the fine print back a few months ago. It reduces the core from $85 to $60 each. Cool heads up on the rubber band as a possible friction reducer.

Also, on CVJ Reman Site they state that a brand new OEM Toy Axle is the best.

 

WASHES OFF.

 

Rented a little TT and took her on a camping trip this weekend. Also she turned 205,000K! Had the torque app for a monitor. I don’t know what ‘normal’ is but my coolant saw 202F, torque converter saw about 201F and trans pan saw about 189F.
Also, don’t worry cause my wife leaned over to take the pictures as I was driving.




oh! On a side note. After almost colliding head on with oncoming traffic since Toyota decided it knew better and made my VSC kick in I unplugged a sensor to kill the trac and vsc on the way home. No suddenly death high speed corners and all went well except having 4 dash light annoy me.

 

I clearly did NOT read the fine print Are you leaning towards just getting a new OEM axle? Since you're not lifted very much in the front I bet they will last a long time. I only went with these because I thought the moderate angle boot would last longer for me.

 

Took her in bright and early for round 3 of Part II bearing repair oil seal leak.

Spoke with the tech personally and he already knew about the grease/marker test on the oil seal. He admitted to his prior mistakes:

1) He put the new NAPA oil seal on like the Botched Garage installed it during the first install.

2) He re-used the NAPA seal and ‘finessed’ it on the second warranty repair.

3) He reused the retainer ring and reinstalled it on the second warranty repair.


The problem could have been rectified on the second visit when:

1) Service Rep was told to reinstall a new Toy Seal by me.

2) Service Rep was told to reinstall new OEM Spec Japanese Brake shoes.

Manager states the problem ended up being that the new NAPA Seal opening is slightly larger than the Toy OEM Seal. It is. It was also crooked from reuse.


Conclusion: Use Toy OEM Oil Seals and retainer rings when doing these axles. I also saved a ton on money by not buying a new Toy axle in lieu of the NAPA axle and bearing, as the dealer wanted me to do. A simple checking of the seals differences by the tech was his mistake on round 1&2. Cost him dearly, probably.

We’ll see how this seal holds up. If it leaks again, I’ll have my CC company refund and end up doing this job myself.

Post Mortem Pic

 

Yeah. Will go with the Brand New Toy Axle. My old ones were still good. No noises. They just had ripped boots and slung some grease. I bet I could have just cleaned them up and greased them real good with new boots and been good to go. The OEM axles turn better (even though you are suppose to limit turning).

Found an online stealer that sells both the new ones for right at $840 with shipping! No cores.

My aftermarkets are chirping/scrubbing and driving me nuts! Where are my Crazy Pills?!?

 

What doesnt? Mine is still all over my frame rails after 4 months. Itll wash off your cv joints, control arms, diff and all that stuff. But it tends to stay on the frame pretty well. Does motor oil not wash off? Cause if it doesnt ill just use that. Plus oil is cheaper

 

Grease is what is working for me. Moly-B Lithium. Once it ages it turns into a tar shell. Cheap! It does grab dirt when the grease is fresh, but that turns black and adds to the protective shell. The PB Blast penetrates and fills the micro pores of the frame and rejuvenates the greasing layer.

An old mechanic told me Jeep Wagoners frames used to come from the factory with a grease coating. He said they never had a rust problem!

 

Not trying to start another fluid film debate. I'm sure they may be better products and grease will last longer.

I just went outside to wash the copious amount of bird shit off my truck. I sprayed my frame and it beads up like paint that's been waxed. This is from fluid film I sprayed in November. We've had over 30 inches of rain just since 1/1. For comparison, Seattle has had only 20".

What I've noticed is that FF doesn't look like it's there, but it's working, at least on my truck. Given this, I'll likely keep applying it every November before the first chance of salt.

 

My frame is the same way, u can rub your finger on it and feel it too, but im not sure if its actually still doing anything, but maybe your right! Hopefully you are. Shits expensive

 

The internet was recommending 400ish grit, but all I had was some really worn out 220. I sprayed it with water to clear the dust, but I wiped the water off before I continued.

Make sure you take a picture of where the dials are bottomed out or you will be taking it off and putting it on a lot. Also, make sure the dials aren't pressed on too tight or it will keep them from spinning freely.