shimmy in toyota tundra

Hi is there a problem with toyota tundra with shimy and vibrations in steering wheel

 

No
Maybe you have a wheel out of balance. Hit any potholes?

 

If it happens during braking, probably a warped rotor. If during normal driving and speed- you may have a wheel/tire than needs to be balanced. Check for those things first....if neither one of them move on to potential worn suspension/steering components.

Most often is a wheel balance or warped rotor. Not sure why, but based on reading here and my experience, Tundras seem to be sensitive to both wheel balance and rotor issues.

 

Hey guys, I had this start on mine about a month ago 2017 SR5 ... took it in to my local dealer ( Larry H. Miller Lemon Grove CA. and the tech verified that the caliper pins were dry. This he explained caused the pads to "lightly rest" on the rotor heating them and warping. I had mine still under warranty... they pulled and cleaned/greased the caliper pins resurfaced the rotors and slapped a new set of pads. I'll see how long this lasts.... warped rotors sure are frustrating for sure.

 

Guys in the rust belt?...They just worry about being able to remove the pins when the time comes.

Did the tech also have a recommendation on how often you should come in to "get your pins greased"?

 

JohnLakeman nope, he didn’t. I’m figuring I’ll be greasing my own pins after the warranty runs out on a routine as needed break job anyway.

 

The story is blarney. You were going to need a brake job anyway, and he provided a story. I will need to be convinced that pads "lightly touching" the rotor will ever cause a rotor to warp. Disc brake pads are ALWAYS lightly touching the rotor; disc brake pads do not retract, they are just not being forced against the rotor. Now, I could believe improper torqueing of lug nuts with an impact wrench could get it done.

The Service Repair Manual does not call for any lubrication of the front pins (just the messenger here). It does call for lubricating the rear pins with a lithium soap based glycol grease and torqueing to 65 ft-lbf. The reason for that is the rear pins have rubber bushings. Lithium soap base glycol grease is special only in that it will not deteriorate rubber parts like mineral oil greases. Other available products, like silicone based grease, are equally "special" in not consuming the rubber parts.

Frankly, I wouldn't worry about lubing the pins, except as maybe a futile attempt to reduce corrosion. As I said, no lube is specified for the front pins.

 

I’m at 20,000 miles went in with a shake, The Blarney Stone said he greased the pins. Changed pads (old ones measured at 8mm) and resurfaced the rotors. Also did a Tire rotation. No more shimmy at speed 65-70 nor while breaking. I sure hope this pig doesn’t warp rotors every 20,000 miles.

 

The tech's best intentions may also have built in future trouble with tire rotation. Best advice after a shop tire rotation would be to jack up each wheel, loosen the wheel lugs, then use a good torque wrench to retorque the wheel nuts to specified torque in 2-3 steps using a "star" pattern.

Over-torqueing or uneven torqueing of the wheel lug nuts, which also clamp the rotor against the wheel hub, can distort the rotor disc surface. It is particularly important to match-mark rotors and reinstall them back in the original position when doing brake work. Steering wheel "shimmy" or "pulsing" is caused by mechanical "run-out" of the rotor face. Run-out of the disc surface can be measured with a dial indicator mounted on a magnetic base. Allowed "run-out" on Tundra front rotors is about 0.002" (thickness of copy paper). The effect of run-out is for the rotor disc surface to "wobble" as it rotates. Resurfacing the disc surface removes the wobble, but it also removes material thickness making the rotor more prone to distortion in the future.

At least they didn't charge you for the service.