6112 Setting and Tire/Wheel Combo Thread.

So what your saying is that the tire isn't true what the spec's say. Is this normal for most tires or just the Cooper AT3 XLT.

 

I assume it varies by company / model, weight of the vehicle, and possibly the width of the wheel it is mounted on (?). My BFG K02's are also this way. Barely over 33" for a tire that is claimed to be 33.9" in the manufacturer spec. Tire is 285/75/17.

 

I've measured KO2's, Michelin's and Open Country M/T's that my friends have and it's been pretty consistent. Roughly 1" less in diameter and sometimes more depending on the manufacturer. You can search and find other threads related to tires on this site if you're interest but this thread is dedicated to 6112's. I would just recommend doing the research if you're looking to get larger tires. The manufacturer specs, especially for diameter, are deceiving. That's why I didn't hesitate to go with the 295/70/18's. They fit great on my stock 18x8" wheels!

 

My 275/65/20 Cooper AT3 XLT is suppose to be 34.1". I just measured now @ 45 psi and it was at 33".

 

I'm sorry if I offended you by going off topic.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/bronze-wheels-assemble.44109/page-5#post-1400281

 

I’m currently running my 6112/5160 at the 1.9 setting with +20 offset wheels and 275/70/18 BFG. I’d like to run 295/70/18 on this setup but I’m concerned with the amount of rub. Should I be concerned or will these fit without issue?

 

I’m running that size with a 2.0 leveling kit. Currently measuring 23 inches from center of hub to fender, if you’re close that size should fit.

 

Are you talking center of wheel measuring up? I have 23 1/2 inches on that measurement.

 

Yeah center of wheel to the fender.

 

I should mention I’m running a 35 offset on my wheels. Would halve to fine the thread but pretty sure a 20 will work as well.

 

To those that have gone from 2.5 to 1.9 (or vice versa), is there really a big or noticeable difference in ride quality? Besides the ability to fit larger tires, anything else that separates the two? Thanks in advance.

 

Can you tell me what brand of side step you have installed? I'm looking for a really low profile step like what you have that doesn't hang down to far. Thanks!

 

These are the Go Rhino RB20 (mounted backwards so that the step is wider by the rear door where the kiddos are in and out). I have mixed feelings about them. As a step they are great. Solid feeling and it is a wide step so its very functional even when it is snowy or slick out. However, the powder coat has NOT held up well at all. I opted for the Powder Coat finish vs the Bedliner as i had heard that it held up better. I will likely be testing out their warranty soon as they allegedly have a 5 year finish coverage, but if i could do it over again i would have more seriously considered sliders (with the top fill plate / step)instead of running boards. I think I paid $400 or so (can't remember exactly what i paid) and now i'm looking at sliders like RCI Offroad sliders (which are currently 15% off they are something that interest you).

To make this post relevant to the thread:
I trimmed my mud flaps this weekend (basically removed the portion covering the cab mount) and i no longer have ANY rubbing anywhere in the full range of motion in forward or reverse on flat road. I can't say yet what will happen at close to full lock while articulating, but i can turn around or back out of a parking spot without rubbing my flaps now!

 

Also, I have noticed that at full droop my Upper Control Arm appears to be contacting my springs. This is with the 6112 at 1.9" + a single .25" shim. I'm concerned this suggests that an aftermarket UCA is potentially necessary even at this height to provide proper suspension travel. This is with the (anti) sway bar still hooked up. It sounds like others have also experienced this. Should this be of concern and why doesn't anyone seem to care? I always hear the limit at 3" is in regards to the ability to get alignment numbers in the green, but if we actually offroad our trucks should we not be concerned about limiting down travel with UCA - Coil collisions?

 

Ultimately decided to stagger "preload" on 6112's to correct lean; 1.9 Driver/ 1.3 passenger. This was somewhat of an experiment as we were not sure if 1.9 would over correct the lean- it did not. Aligned great, 23.5" leveled front, 24" rear (center hub to wheel well). Drive is very good with no handling issues. The primary reason I went this route instead of shims was: Installing a spacer or a shim between the shock and chassis will make the shock longer on compression and extension. On compression the shock can bottom out before bump stops and cause failure. With that, the shims seem to be proven with addition of bumpstop extensions. Something to consider- the stops hit even during daily driving. I am in need of tires and plan to get new wheels as well- currently thinking 295/70r17. Be safe out there and thanks for the guidance on the forum.

 

Thanks for the info and for the thorough review. Since the truck sits higher now, I'm considering some type of step or maybe adding the "oh shit" handle to the driver side to pull myself up and in.

 

Great looking setup. Were you able to fit the 285/75 at the 1.9" setting or did you bump up to 2.5"? Also - what part of CO? I am in Denver, south by Englewood!

 

Thanks! I put a single shim on both sides when I first installed, so I can’t honestly say if that extra 1/2 inch is required or not.
I am up in Arvada / Westminster not too far from you!

 

Finally got these on. Specs:

Front Suspension:
6112 1.9
2 CB shims driver
1 CB shim passenger

Rear Suspension:
Stock height in these pics.
Icon 2.0 going on tomorrow.
Pro Form 1.5” shackles MAYBE

Tires:
305/70/17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

Wheels:
TRD Forged Rock Warrior
17x8 Et55 (I believe- somebody correct me if I’m wrong)

Other :
No rubbing other than a little on the skid plate. I took a pair of crappy vice grips and bent both sides up in under 5 mins in a parking lot. No big deal, at all.

Coming Soon:
CB bumper shim kit
1.25” spidertrax spacers
Hoping no BMC on this
Icon 2.0 rear, tomorrow
Pro Form 1.5” shackles??

Conclusion:
Ride is night and day on the bumps. It floats compared to my stock black struts. Less body roll. Less brake dive. The rears are obviously lacking now, even on the street. I had the chance to go down a mild trail and the difference from stock really shows there. But, you can absolutely tell on the street. Again, rears are lacking in comparison and it’s obvious.

To me, truck looks level. I need to confirm I’m on 1.9” because I was expecting it to be a lot higher in the front than this. That’s why I bought the 1.5” shackles. Driver side still looks lower than passenger and is lower than I’d like.

More pics and measurements incoming.

 

Driver’s side is .5” lower with a full tank. Loving the ride. Still thought it would sit higher lol. Had some fun today.

 

I am running 6112's up front top setting, JBA upper control arms, 5160s in the back with 2" coachbuilder shackles. Sitting on 33 x 12.50 x20 Toyo open country MTs

 

Nice truck. Any chance you’d measure from center of hub to front fender, driver’s side? I just put on 6112 at 1.9” with 2 .25” shims... yielding 2.4”. Looks way lower than yours kind of bummed.

 

Here are a couple pics. Right at 24"

 

Joey,

What lug nuts are you using for your Fuel wheels? Can you take a photo with your cap off so I can see them and the thread engagement? I just got mine put on over the weekend and it just doesn't seem right to me. Thanks!!

 

Also, did you add any shims to your 6112's on either side? Do you happen to have your alignment specs? I also did the JBA UCA's with my install and need to get my alignment done. How does it ride compared to before?

Your truck looks great!!

 

I am not sure what type of lug nuts they are. They came with the wheels when I ordered them.. They need the lug key on all of them.
I did forget to add that I am running 1 shim on both sides.. And it is all level well within 1/4".

Here is the alignemt sheet I have to the shop, they said they were able to get the same numbers. I felt a different, it doesn't pull and no more ware in the tires.

 

I just got all of this installed over the weekend and it was fun getting to work on the rig, except for trying to get the bushings out of the shackle. Everything went pretty smooth for the most part but I have some questions/concerns on a few things and hoping some of you can chime in and help me out. Still need to change out the mirror caps and door handles, also received my interior AJT items and will be doing those at the same time. Also, I barely rub on the cab/body mount, so I will be doing the CMC (purchased the relentless plates), unless the alignment or changing the tire pressure will help this?? I am adding some photos of the install, let me know if everything looks right or if something is off.

1. My main concern is the thread engagement on my lug nuts (Gorilla lug nuts M14x1.5 ET3), it doesn't look right to me but in researching this a little bit seems like it may be okay. The lug nuts were provided with my wheels and appears there is at least half, if not slightly more than half, of the threads engaged on the studs. Does anyone know if this is "normal" or is there something else I need to do or get instead? Is this normal with Fuel wheels on a Tundra? (see photo)

2. I drove it around the block and it felt like I had less control, almost like it was wandering or "floating". I do need to get an alignment so hopefully that is the issue and it will fix this, unfortunately, my local 4x4 shop is closed for 30 days due to the COVID-19 situation. I'll start there and see if that was the issue, otherwise, not sure what it could be or what to check.

3. When I was installing and torquing the CB shackles, it seemed like the passenger side shackle took longer to tighten/torque and is bending at the top. Additionally, they both seem like they are twisted a little bit so not sure if either of those issues are "normal" or not. (see photos)

4. How do you torque the rear upper shock bolt with the limited amount of space to get the torque wrench and socket in there? Crowsfoot wrench? Any tips would be appreciated!

5. Does the thread engagement look okay for the driver's side upper coilover bolts?

Thanks!

 

Just received my Fuel Vector 20x9 +20 and these were the lugs that were sent by @BOSS4x4s for comparison. Haven't installed my kit yet but will update once completed.