1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Sold!

 

Well. Someone I know rolled their 2014 tundra last night.. this ones not savable. But I may grab the steering wheel and seats out of it if the airbags didn’t go off in the seats.

 

Well I finally bought a matching wheel so I can get a proper matching spare tire.

While I was picking it up, I noticed the new 4runner has gloss metallic gunmetal wheels which I really like. Wonder how much they cost?

 

Man, I'd love to have a matching wheel for my spare. Stupid pricey though. I had to get my set of 4 from out of the US to get the price vaguely reasonable.

 

I got a really good deal when I bought the first 4. I just got tired of searching for a good single. I have my original wheels to sell to help offset the new spare. Yes stupid expensive for a spare wheel.

 

I'm looking at about $450 CAD for a single wheel from the local dealer.

 

$180 U.S. for mine.

 

$240 CAD. Sounds right. I paid around that per wheel when I ordered my set out of the US. Pretty sad that shit is almost twice as expensive up here.

 

The set of 4 I found for about $160 US ea. But they only had 4 of them in a set. No singles, but free shipping.

 

Here’s the new gloss gunmetal on Amazon

$280 Genuine Toyota 17" TRD Gloss Gunmetal Gray (TRD PRO 4Runner) PTR20-35110-G4 (1)

https://www.amazon.com/TOYOTA-Genuine-Gunmetal-4Runner-PTR20-35110-G4/dp/B07X7K4FHF

 

So buy the set of 4 & sell the 3 singles?

 

Sorry, I just realized I didn't really answer your question. No, I don't think it will fit under there. I'm kinda worried about how close they are to even cut em off. I might be pressing the backing plate off too.

 

Cutting off the tone ring and inner seal race might be your best option.

Here's another idea: I have no idea if it will work but it's easy, cheap and non-distructive... so you may want to give it a try.

It involves heating the tone ring and seal race, and flash-cooling the axle to change the fit among the parts. Do you have a propane torch? If so, buy a bottle of MAPP gas for it. MAPP burns much hotter than propane.
Get yourself a can of CRC freeze spray.

This will be best done with two people.

Have your helper use two pry bars/crow bars to apply pressure to the back/under side of the tone ring *as close to the axle as possible* at the 6 & 12 positions. (have two more pry bars/crow bars ready for you to use later)
While he/she is doing that, heat the tone ring and race evenly with the torch. If you have two torches, that would be better.
Get it good and hot -- to the point that it's almost glowing.
With your helper still applying pressure, quickly spray the axle with freeze spray above (and below if you can reach the behind the tone ring).
If they still don't move, grab the second set of pry bars mentioned above, and you apply pressure at the 3 & 9 positions.

As I said, I don't know if it will work, but the theory is solid based on physics. This approach is used all the time by professional mechanics to install bearings. If you put a bearing in a freezer, then when you're ready to install, heat the case it needs to be pressed into, and the frozen bearing will simply slide into place -- no press needed. Once the temp differential equalizes, and the bearing will require a puller or press to remove it.

The question in this case is: will the temperature differential change the fit enough given the limited amount of force you and your helper are going to be able to apply. May be worth a try.

 

That's pretty normal for one wheel honestly. Doesn't seem that high to me. I love those wheels too. One of the best OEM designs.

 

That's pretty dope.

It's because Neutral is between D and R. you can pop between R and N and N and D at any point. Same thing with D, 2 and 1/L.

so yes, you can shift our trucks like a manual. It's clumsy, but you can do it. You can't force it to not downshift though.

 

It seems like a lot for use as spare. I could've used one of my originals, but then I'd have have a 3 pack to try to sell. I just had a used tire put on for now. When I replace my tires I'm moving up a size and I'll just buy 5 & put the spare in the rotation.

 

Pretty wheel but what I was wondering earlier and thinking of my 2004 spare holder contraption, it requires the portion of wheel to be 5 inches empty diameter wise to put the thingamajig in place to crank it up. 2005 different ? I also just lowered mine for first time in about 8 years to remove the cranking contraption for maintenance and painting. Hate to put that much in a spare that I won't possibly see for years

 

When I get new tires, I'll put it in a 5 tire rotation. I'll find out tonight if it fits, but when I had my Ivan Stewart wheels on mt first 1st gen, I didn't have ant fitment issues for the spare.

 

Worked just fine.

 

What size self tappers would you guys recommend for mounting a few quick fists to the bed?

 

I'd love to make a 2nd gen leather wheel and airbag work for my truck...this is possible?

 

It’s not 100% advised because the bag wasn’t designed for the truck. But it should be plug and play airbag wise and a repin on the wheel controls

 

I wrote a review for the redesigned Freedom Off-Road UCAs they provided for me to test...TLDR version...they allowed me to get the truck aligned to the point that it drives very well now, so I'm quite happy;

Longer version:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-tundra-freedom-off-road-upper-control-arms.61757/

'

 

Your appear to be an up to date competent/experienced refrigeration mechanic, and would like to ask you about a reliable package unit for the house.

Looking for a lasting mid range quality A/C heat pump package unit that won't break an average retired person's bank. The old 13seer Amana A/C heat pump called it quits after 17 yrs of no problem/reliable service. Prior to that a Carrier unit lasted 25 yrs with same no problem/reliable service. Today's A/C market isn't the same as it was 20 yrs and earlier ago. Some now have reliability issues such as York or Rheem which have been read about recently on the internet. Today there's too many, not equal to or lessor quality, offspring renamed units under mainline A/C manufacturer's umbrella that sales people say are just as good.

The A/C contractors down here promote their product with appx 2 to 3 grand change-out install fee. They make your head spin with their sales pitch of renamed/branded A/C unit reliability. After doing an online check of their A/C mfg units, it's not what they say.

Too bad quality A/C mfg units aren't sold from online dealers & shipped to consumers. I don't remember all of 45 yrs back A/C knowledge learned in H.S., but can still read a schematic and figure the power and thermostat wiring out. So I think

I'm at a loss with choosing a reliable 14 or preferably 16 seer 3.5 or more so 4 ton A/C heat pump package unit for the small house.

Honestly, any recommended help is appreciated.

 

as in because it's a dual stage airbag or something? I get that it's not designed for the truck but I never knew it would actually work. That may be an option if I can find one with a good airbag as well.

 

I’m actually buying a new split system next week. I’m buying American Standard(Trane unit with a different label, literally out of the same plant, same assembly lines, just differnt sticker) 80% furnace dual stage heating 18 seer dual compressor condensing unit. Labor: free. Unit cost: 5k-ish. Knowing it’s done right: priceless!!
Most units only last 10-15 years here in the heat. My mom has a trane 19seer that’s 20 years old(maintained by yours truly! With very little issues)
Problem now a days is the epa and stupid DuPont in kahoots. 410a sucks to no end! Higher pressure, higher heat, higher failure rate. And 410a will be phased out really soon because the patent is expired, so now they will come up with another scammy ozone friendly freon untill that patent runs out and they make up a new one.
The main thing with a 410a system is keeping the coils clean since the run hotter. Keep them clean so they can dissipate the heat better. If you have natural gas, get it piped to the package unit, heat pumps are the worst, that reversing valve is constantly moving and a pain to replace correctly.

 

How thick is the quick fist surface?

 

Maybe a quarter inch. Was more concerned with diameter. Want to make sure they won't rip out of the bed.

 

Not sure of the size of the mating area, but I’d use more smaller fasteners than less bigger.

I’d also make sure the fasteners have deep threads and add a little Fuze on the thread for extra mojo. Don’t over tighten the screw or you’ll strip the thread bite, as the steel metal on our beds is thin.