What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I think they had one or two more wrap around of coil. Id assume the 4x4 would be heavier because if the front diff and what not.

 

well. im going to try and piece together a write up. Honestly its all plug and play if you buy the harnesses and dont want the backup camera. but adding the camera is also not TOO hard. you do have to supply the headunit with a reverse signal though.

I have not added the speed signal because i see no reason to and the junction point to tap into it is buried in the kick panel. but i did wire the Radio side of the harness for it should i find a need later.

I DID have to use some scrap wire harnesses to make it all factory-like

Reverse signal you can easily grab. theres actually 2 open spots left for anything else that would need a reverse signal too.., It is right by the Airbag, green red wire is reverse the 3 slots below it are junctioned to the top green red

i just ran a simple wire to the radio connector at the bottom of the center stack. I would of tied it up nicer, but kind of hard with the dash still in


'

This is the radio harness. Pretty sure its the only Toyota the has the harness actually separate from the dash harness. Kinda nice

The PAC backup camera harness had the video wire i needed. i stripped the rest of the wires off it to minimize clutter (no picture. i'll get one when i button it all up) I did splice into the main accessory power for the radio to have the backup camera on with ignition (you have to, triggered from reverse will not work, the radio looks for a camera on boot up, it then switches with its own reverse signal)


Image quality is what you expect from an aftermarket backup camera. About on par with the 120 dollar ones ive messed with (no point in spending big bucks. The RCA can only handle standard definition. dont ever believe the 720p claims






OH tech tip:
if your radio wont turn on when your testing, The control panel for the a/c and clock has to be plugged in.. wasted an hour thinking i fucked up the wiring DOH

All in all about 300ISH into the whole project. for 300 you get HD radio, AM, USB, (you can add 3.5mm aux, but its ALOT of work), Bluetooth with handsfree calling, AHA radio (does some neat stuff) a backup camera, better sound (pioneer makes the headunit for toyota). and it'll read your texts to you. Not a bad deal for what you get
But no CD player, if you REALLY wanted one you could make it work off the 3.5mm jack wires. but like i said, nightmare to deal with. wires have to be shielded for the 3.5mm or you'll get horrible sound interference

radio controls work, you can add the hang up and pick up buttons from other toyotas onto the factory wheel (or upgrade to a newer wheel)

Not a bad dealio if your up for a little challenge. If i could find a supplier for the pins needed to make radio harnesses i'd be up to make a few to sell. but finding the micro pins seems to be impossible. the larger standard radio pins not so much.


After all this the 2020 radio should be plug and play for me. Will report how that radio works out when i have my hands on one

 

PT546-00142 is the harness kit, The USB adapter is useless to us. Amazon sells the one i used, but the other 2 harnesses work
PT546-74120-MC Microphone, plugs into the adapter harness and works pretty good where i have it on the instrument panel., may try to relocate to mirror eventually. but likely wont.
PAC CAMTY12 is the harness i used for the backup camera THE 6V OUT WILL NOT WORK UNLESS YOU BUY A 6V CAMERA. but the video connection is really all you need, the 12v can be taken from any source of ignition power

$40 NATIKA Backup/Front View Camera,IP69K Waterproof Great Night Vision HD and Super Wide Angle Metal OEM Style Reverse Rear View Backup Camera for Cars Pickup Trucks SUVs RVs Vans (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/NATIKA-Backu...tronics&sprefix=natika,electronics,159&sr=1-3 camera i used, needs 12v ignition power at the red wire by the video connector at the radio end. the ground and 2 other wires can be taped off. not used

$13 Goliton® USB Female Retention Adapter Compatible for Axxess AX-TOYUSB Select Toyota and Lexus

https://www.amazon.com/Goliton-Fema...+adapter&qid=1580548465&s=electronics&sr=1-20 USB adapter i used, no frills. just works. put a USB jack whereever you want.. this converts the toyota connector to a standard female USB connector (tape the connection you use so it doesnt come apart over time



i dont think im missing anything.

 

I think I was able to shim mine so no tailgate shows. I used washers and I couldn't have shimmed it anymore because the stud didn't have anymore thread.

 

Seems like a waste of grip area to have these chamfers. Wonder if it helps with sound/vibration/harshness?

 

Oooo the super rare red/yellow and red/blue sprangs!

 

Please make 2 and I'll buy one...seriously. I have the same camera and plan to mount it in the same place...

 

Bumper done. Going to powder on Monday. I was hoping to have it back by the end of the weekend but it looks like I'll get it back next Saturday. I'm going to be out of town a couple days this week so not a huge deal but really wanted to drive the truck when I went out of town.

 

Looks good! Did anything shift it flex/warp after final welding?

 

Just a quick 'suck & fill' repeated 5 times on the power steering pump.

I've had it flushed professionally twice in last 150K or so because it would whine for about 10 secs on those super duper cold Austin winter mornings, haha, resolved it each time and is still OK. I just thought I'd get ahead and do a few 'suck & fills' with a turkey baster, high tech tool.

Question. Why do we suppose the fluid gets so black? I mean the sun can't even shine thru it....

 

doing one more test fit today or tomorrow to make sure it didn't. Will report back!

 

Suck and fill with the engine on and watch the PS boogers shoot out!

Actually, do not do this. Not sure why it turns black. Maybe the heat?

 

It's supposed to help clean the rotors off if you get crap on them, and, just guessing, help with a smooth transition onto the rotor.

It does get pressurized in the rack so I'd say that's a good assumption.

 

You mean this little guy?

 

If I can find someone to supply the smaller pins I’d be up for it.



issue is I can’t find a supplier. They’re made by yazaki

 

I’m not exactly sure what your looking for, but I searched a headlight forum for Yazaki and not a lot came up, but here at the two sites that were reccomended
https://connectorexperts.com/c-1458515-terminals.html

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109_484?osCsid=4vm9l93p1fl89p60uga96lrcs6

 

I did the LPV bracket chop and drop mod today, my dad would be proud!


Anyone have a diagram or PN for that eye bolt?

 

Did you try Alibaba or Aliexpress? Sometimes cutting out the middleman helps.

 

Hey, anybody here installed all the Skid Row skids (Front, Oil Pan, Transmission, Transfer Case) on there AC Tundra? Im working on getting mine installed and ran into a huge snag. The transmission skid looks to be too long to attach to the cross member! Heres some pictures to see what im talking about. Im communicating with Skid Row now, and even they are confused as to why this isnt fitting. So hopefully someone here has done this with their AC Tundra before. Thanks for any info guys!

PS: Not sure why this message didnt send along with the above photos, but this is regarding the photos above.

 

That is odd. I didn't order the tranmission skid so I'm no help. You're positive you've got it lined up correctly?

I wonder if they shipped you a skid for a different truck.

 

Tracked down the high dolla Toy Shim WOW! brake pads shims. Wwwuuuweee! $34 for 8 shims. They have some really really neat slots for cooling the pads keeping them from getting really really hot. A slight rubber membrane backing.

Bought some self bleeders from NAPA. These are for the New Front 13WL Calipers (for sure) and the Rear Proportioning Valve (I hope as no info available but visual says yes). $18 a pair! Wuuuwee!

Breaking my budget for Brake Nirvana!

 

You already used/installed those self bleeders on the rear right?
ive never bled breaks, but can you just pull out each bleeder, and install the new ones without to much of a mess? I’m sure some will come out, but not sure what kinda flow it would have?

 

After measuring the Trans skid, it seems to be the right dimensions. Im pretty sure I got everything lined up right. Theres really no other way I could have mounted these. I havent drilled any holes and am just using the existing holes in the installation instructions.

Also, did you install the oil pan skid? Is the hole in the oil pan directly below your oil drain plug? Mine is off several inches which will make draining my oil for oil changes much more annoying. Not sure how I feel about getting this whole line up of skids for my truck now. And if the trans skid is off, im afraid the transfer case skid will be off as well. Hopefully SkidRow can help me figure this out or atleast make it right.

Im wondering if theres a difference between the AC and DC tundras. Thats about all I can think of. Oh and the fact that my Tundra is a V6 model. Maybe that has something to do with it as well?

 

I'd bet this is the issue. Makes sense the oil drain is off in the V6 vs the V8

 

Yea they seem to think this is the cause for the fitment issues as well.

From Skid Row: "I would think that has everything to do with it. The skid plate was designed on a V8, auto trans model, which is what most of them are. Our new website no longer specifies that and so there was no way for you to know that."

Im hoping I'll be able to just return them all and they reimburse the full payment amount plus shipping to and from me. We'll see what they decide to do next.

 

Nice. Pretty freakin jealous right now. So clean, looks like a great design

 

Yes they are installed on the rear and work nicely for one person bleeding. Once all the bleeders are installed it will make future work real easy. Its kinda been a pain tracking these part numbers down and running for them so you guys should save these part #’s for future reference.

You sure could install these easily. If your fluid is in need of a flush, then I would bleed each spot in order (rear pass, LSBP Valve, driver rear, pass front, and driver front). Bleed it using the old bleeders and then put your new bleeder in on the last pumps.

In other words, do the circuit in full bleeding one at a time and then come back on the swap and do the circuit one more time (without a full flush) so just be quick in the swap when you pull the old ones and install the new. This makes sure you have no little chunks in the fluid that might get stuck in the new valve set up.

I’ve flushed my system about twice now with the various brake line/cylinder stuff to ensure nothing is left to chance with debris mixing in the new brake components. Third flush will be after the front caliper install.

Next time I’ll be able to do the whole flush job without and help. Total cost about $45. No hoses or pumps needed! I just mount up a used plastic bottle with a hole the size of the bleeder tip at the top side of bottle. Needs to be a tall skinny flexible water bottle and it will form fit to the position and hang there on the bleeder on its own.

 

Put a couple of coats of High Temp Ceramic Flat (for BBQ) on the calipers this afternoon.

Will put some Black Gloss Enamel coats on tomorrow.