What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Stop rust before it can even get a foot hold

 

Darkness is spreading!!!

 

What'd you buy? Just curious because I'm looking for a new one. The deck on the cheap one I bought 5 years ago is done for. Can't complain too much since I've put quite a few miles on it.

 

2003-2004 the trd s/c had a 9th & 10th injector.
I am planning to put my k&n back in and see if that changes anything then I might get an intake to see what that does as well. I really wish I bought new injectors instead of cleaning. Would have only been an extra 40ish but for the time being, I'll use these cleaned injectors. I do plan to add a wideband to see what my fuel is actually looking like and trying to get my mechanic to take on tuning this unichip.

My mechanic builds big shit so I know he's capable but Unichip isn't used in big hp cars so never used it before.

 

Did you use brake lube?

I’m preparing for doing some rear brake service. My studies have shown that ‘shutter’ is from lack of lube sometimes.

Lube, such as Sil-Glyde, is recommended in certain areas. Maybe someone can post up a FSM spec picture of the front discs areas to lube. I believe you are to lube the backs of the new front disc pads pretty well and one other area iirc.

Here is the FSM for the rears. I’ve not seen where any lube was use on my drums in the past. I am hoping to eliminate the reverse squeal when backing up that started the first day my original rear shoes were replaced 6 years ago.

 

Put LEDs in the CHMSL and cargo lamps. Four screws to remove the lens cover, plug and play, super easy.

 

So this adds some fuel to the fire for the 05/06 headers. Jba lists them as fitting all years of 4.7 tundra a Sequoia. They just mention there is no provision for the air system. I might drop them a line and see what they say, but if I had to bypass the air system to get headers it wouldn't break my heart.
http://www.jbaheaders.com/feature_pages/05Tundranew.asp

 

Replaced my spark plugs today. A few observations and a question at the end.

• All of the new
  $4 Denso K20R-U Denso 3122 Spark Plug
  Denso K20R-U plugs had the wrong gap even though they were supposed to be pre-gapped. Most shipped with different gaps. Always check this!
• All of the old Denso plugs were too loose. Some were scary loose.
• The old plugs were installed 4 years ago by a shop that specializes in Japanese vehicles and the owner even has a 1st gen Tundra. I would bet they didn't use a torque wrench.
• If the pros can't get it right then I doubt most people doing it by "feel" are getting it right. This firms up my belief that this job is a good candidate for a torque wrench which I used.
• The coil pack that looks the worst is the one I replaced just 6 months ago. That spark plug was also the least tight. Is the coil pack getting burnt because the plug was loose or because that seal on the valve cover is bad?

This is the plug in question. You can see the porcelain was "burned" also. The coil pack was also orange even though it's new.

 

Ahh... So you are saying that the loose plug and the coil in worse shape might be connected. Resistance does tend to create heat and kill electronics. Sounds like a decent way to burn up something to me.

 

Yes. I find it very suspicious that my new Denso coil pack happens to be in the worst shape and it happened to be sitting on the spark plug that was the least tight.

The reason I replaced that coil pack is becsuse the original was burnt orange. 6 months later it's burnt again. So it must be the coil or the tube seal on the valve cover is leaking. I'm open to opinions on which is more likely.

 

Burnt orange? Sounds like oil varnish

 

Right. Would that be from a faulty plug seal on the valve cover?

 

Yes. It could also be the tube at the bottom. But that’s usually only a issue on heads that have been rebuilt

 

Can someone tell me on a 2004 DC, which wire to the corner light is the turn signal? I have no way of testing. Thanks!

 

green black wire is the turn according to the wiring diagram
blackc white is ground/shared with corner light

 

We figured it out. Thank you! Green black for driver and green yellow for passenger.

 

green black on the left, green yellow on the right

 

You're too quick man haha

 

the beauty of have TIS at my disposal! lol

 

Looks like the staple and construction adhesive method will hold up on the armrest pretty well.

Just a heads up for anyone who pulls their door panels for anything. Take a look at the backside of the holes formed for the speaker grille. Over 3/4 of mine were not fully punched through. Now I’ve never been upset with my audio but I’m sure that fixing this won’t hurt my sound quality at all. I started using a pick and realized I don’t have the patience for that. Fired up a torch and went back and forth ever so lightly and it opened up almost all of them.

Forgot to get a before pic but here you can see some that are still closed.

 

This is a "Blade Z" AV / TV.
But I didn't buy it. We had a corporate gym at work they got rid of. I got the treadmill.

 

Wanted to share a trick I learned today - truck skills.

I needed to get the treadmill out of the truck bed & didn't want to wait for help to show up.
Gravity was on my side to offload.
I took two H.F. straps, put the S-hook at the base of the uprights (x2), wrapped around 1x to lock in the S-hook. Then I criss-crossed the straps & ran them thru the two tie downs in the rear bed corners. I pushed/dragged/wheeled the treadmill (front first) to the tailgate so it was just balanced at the tipping point. I tightened the straps, lifted & pushed from the rear 'over the edge' & then let gravity pull it down my ramps - using the two straps through the tie-downs to control direction & speed.

The tie-downs were the key. without them all the weight would have been on me & my back. It worked incredibly well. So simple, so effective.

I may have to mount some tiedowns at the top of my basement stairs...

Another Tundra success!

 

TRUCK GANG!

 

From what I have read, the orange coming up on the porcelain body is a normal occurrence with miles on the plug.

You had 4 years on these plugs. IIRC, I remember you commenting on re-tightening all your plugs at the time you installed your coil pack. Commenting on them being a little loose.

I still stand by my theory that these engines make for loose plugs. Steel spark plug threads and Aluminum engine heads make for differing contraction and expansion rates. You should ask your Japanese Specialist if he uses torque wrench. I bet he does or will at least say he does because even Blowing Bubbles uses one.

I’d rather have to lightly snug plugs down every other oil change (8k miles) than have a stripped plug thread on soft aluminum from over cranking. This also lets you check the health of your engine.

Not sure about whats going on with your new coil pack/brand/etc.

Maybe buy a torque wrench and tell us what it feels like by hand when you go to loosen it in a real world trial test. Then do one plug by hand model instructions without torque wrench and see how they match up.

 

Chinese New Year was today. Just got back from dancing with Dragons. Spent the earlier part of day finalizing the interior paint trim. Added some natural fiber insulation for wurrlld peas and prosperity. Stoked its over and I can move on to other things.

My cylinder honer came in today. Still waiting on flexible brake hoses and power bleeders.

 

I have a brand new torque wrench that I used today at 13 ft lbs. I'll check them in the future and see if they have naturally loosened.

 

The love you're showing this truck is pretty awesome. Wish I had the time to invest in mine as you have.
Looks great!

 

Thank you. This truck is therapy for me. Keeps me from going crazy!

 

I completely agree. It's relaxing working on it...usually. Yours is looking so sparkly clean.

 

I know those feels. My 99 taco was exactly that for me. I must've removed and reinstalled damn near every piece of that truck. Or at least I would have by now had it not been totalled a year after I bought it.