What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Do it. Works great if you take your time. A heat gun also really helps when applying this stuff.

 

You had my dreaming of new tech and I almost pulled the trigger on a 2019 86 factory deck last weekend. Almost.

 

if you can wait the 2020s should be plug and play too. and they'll have car play.

 

Oh I can wait. I have thousands of dollars in other things to upgrade or fix before I'm desperately in need of a new head unit. That is unless I go all impulsive frustration like the projectors.

 

impulse buys are a bad thing.... the damn tundra itself was an impulse buy.


now im trying to find an MR2 just because i've got a spare 2gr-fe v6 waiting for a home... (and a performance rebuild)

 

Hey it's all context. Let's just say the owner of the co I work for gave me a little something for the effort and a week off for Christmas all paid... Long story short I'm feeling good about only impulse buying hid stuff. Oh the things I had running through my head and electronic shopping carts.

 

i've been loaded up with extra work since i got back from vacation.. ive got play money right now, hence the tundra suspension all the sudden. once thats done i'll dabble with the interior till spring.

 

Hmmm....better pick that bezel up when I go back to pick-a-part since it's laying on the floor bed while I await the writeup

 

This is very helpful. Thank you. I had no idea a new bezel was required for the 2002 model to complete the modification. Looks like that one is around $100. The HU cost is TBD yet.

Might just scrap my original idea to copy your work (due to it being a low cost to free job) and just go through a store like Crutchfield for simplicity sake and not have a piece meal job. That $100 bezel breaks the paradigm for me.

 

What is the trick for removing this kick plate? I pulled all 4 screws and it didn't budge. I didn't want to break anything so I backed off.

Is there a particular place I should pry? It almost feels like it's glued down.

 

Pry it up with a wider type bar or screw driver. There are wedges built in connected on back of the plastic that tension fit into the truck body metal.

 

Many know (or don’t care depending) that I used SeaFoam Engine Fogger (via throttle body) a few months back and more recently a few weeks/tanks ago put the SeaFoam Fuel additive in the gas tank. These are separate products.

The fogger stuff cinched the sphincter when first used as the engine gasped and smoked and made weird noises, but it really cleaned the inside of the manifold on my truck which was gnarly and black. Just imagine a dirty throttle body valve cleaning, but all up inside the hard to reach manifold. I could see it with my eyes. I did this mainly to clean the backside of the intake valves as nothing else can do this except an engine dismantle. Can’t see those, but can assume they were cleaned like the observable manifold interior?

The gas additive (I added 12 oz. to a 1/4 tank of gas) benefits are supposed wonderful, but unlike the engine fogging I can’t see with the eye what its done.

I say all this because my engine starts a bit quicker in the mornings. Ever so slightly quicker. The real observation noticed is its a more powerful start. Like its on full trigger mode every time. Hope this makes sense. The truck started and ran fine before of which nobody would know any better, but because I notice little things I thought I’d point it out.

 

Wouldn't think my 2004 is different from ya'lls but while at pick-a-part right now, this is how mine is also. The red circles are the screw holes AND the clip mechanism, lack of better word.
Before you go back in, squeeze the plastic ears inwards a bit to fit in rectangle body hole circled in red. Screws will then spread them back apart some.

 

Thanks. I've learned not to get in a hurry and force things. Broken a few clips over the years doing that. I've got a pry bar that I'll use tomorrow.

 

Also, don’t German tight them, chance of wallering plastic channel....don’t ask how I know

 

A lot of mine were broken on my sills. I used some nylon nut inserts and now the screws have something to bite into again. Worked like a charm

 

I used a wire brush to remove all the loose rust, and then Permatex Rust Converter. I used my grinding wheel to cut through the bolts for the hoist and grind the surface flat. A couple coats of Eastman Rust Encapsulator spray, and finally a new hoist (~$50 eBay). Now I'm ready for another 15 years (actually longer, because I'll remember to lower the hoist and lubricate the cable every year).

 

so this morning I was having the same problem again; the display blinking on and off continuously.

read the volts and the power wire for the mirror is constant 12V until I put the car in reverse then it jumps from 8-11.

Anyone know a good ACC 12V wire I can tap into in the drivers side kick panel to test it out?

I didn’t see this bring a 2 day project...

thanks guys

 

Diff breather mod completed.

 

You must have a camper/topper? My driver tail light had the same wires tapped into it

 

Just to be sure I'm understanding, initially measures 12v and when you go to reverse it decreases to 8-11 ?
Also, are these with veh running or not?
If running, you should see ~ 14 vdc whether in neutral or reverse

 

I do have a topper now but that's for the backup camera (reverse light). I do need to tap into it further for the topper. Currently, the 3rd brake light is not connected.

 

Let me back up a bit now that I’m in the house.

The camera is hooked up with a hot going to the reverse light hot wire and a ground going to the reverse light negative wire. This is how the camera gets its power and is the trigger for the camera to turn on. The audio cable has the red pigtails on each end. I connected one of the pigtails to the camera hot (in the tailgate) and the other end to the mirror as the trigger to turn on the display (in the kick panel). The mirror also has a hot (ran to ACC power)and ground (connected to a bolt). And both ends of the audio cable are connected.

The mirror powers up and works as it should concerning the auto dim and the green power light. The trigger wire and the mirror power wire both show 12+ volts when in park. When I put the truck in reverse the trigger wire still shows 12+ volts. The backup display blinks and when doing so the volts on the power wire for the mirror fluctuates between 8-11.

This mirror does require a separate feed for a trigger where most are triggered off the audio cable (and is why the pigtails are connected).

I can’t figure out why the volts are good but when in reverse the volts for the camera are sporadic which I think is causing the blinking display...

Do I need to skip the pigtail and run a separate trigger for the mirror? I think I read where there is a wire behind the radio to tap into but haven’t verified.

Sorry for the drama guys but would really appreciate anyone’s help.

 

Really interested in your outcome. My RV came w/ a backup camera that does the same thing. I was blaming it on the distance from the wireless transmitter at the camera to the dash screen some 20' away. ….but maybe not. Curious to see what you come up with.

 

So it's the reverse circuit that is misbehaving. If you had a dirty ground I would guess it could behave like this? How about checking at the reverse lights to see if the issue is back there too. Not like you would ever have noticed flickering reverse lights.

 

Have not verified since I am not at that stage yet but this has been shared here in the past as far as reverse wire supposedly behind center cluster.

 

I always think it’s a waste of time, but I always run a independent ground for everything I wire.

 

Did major tune up on another vehicle today. Yesterday discovered Freon Line Caps up in the cowl bay that should have been on the Valves. Today discovered an engine, that is spec’d at 4.4 quarts for engine oil, with 5.2 quarts in it after draining.

Drove the Tundra to buy a 7/16”? spark plug deep socket to add to the others in the tool box. Autozoned was busy with year end hurried customer goons.

Still deciding if I’ll be doing the axle seal/bearing leak repair or letting stealer do it next week. Its getting bad out there when a Professional Hand Model does better work than the mechanics.

 

DIY so if you screw it up I won't be alone in the 1st gen corner of shame.