Kinda fixed my power steering?

My 2000 tundra is a new acquisition. Its got over 200k miles and needed new power steering lines and rack and pinion, but for $1,100 I think it was a good deal for a light duty work truck.

I just replaced the power steering lines and rack. The 20 years of rust fought me every step of the way.

Im almost proud of the repair except for one piece, the power steering air control valve. When I placed the old valve on the new high pressure line it presented a steady leak from the threads at idle. I ordered a new valve, installed it, same thing. I tried to make it a little tighter without stripping the threads out... still leaks. Next I wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads of the old valve, it actually felt and looks like it threaded a bit deeper and the leak stopped.

I don't understand why it wouldn't re-seal without the Teflon, and as a result I don't feel confident about the repair. Am I overthinking this?



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I also managed to put the rack in out of center resulting in an upside down steering wheel. Another challenge for another day.

Thanks!

Jerry

 

Yes you are over thinking it.
I deleted mine on my Tacoma by putting a bolt in there with some teflon tape.
If it doesn't leak then send it!

 

I personally wouldn't worry about it as long as it stopped leaking, and would just keep an eye on it. Pipe threads have a tendency to leak without some sort of tape or pipe dope.

 

What is the air control valve for?

 

Easy enough to pull the wheel and turn it over.

 

It creates a vacuum leak to raise the RPM when you are steering the truck at idle. More RPM equals higher power steering pressure which makes maneuvering in parking lots easier.

The one on my Tacoma went out and started leaking all the power steering ATF into the intake manifold. Hence why I said screw it and just used a bolt to seal it off.
Actually took me quite a while to figure out where the PS ATF was going cause it wasn’t leaking anywhere under the truck or in the engine bay. Only became apparent after letting the truck idle for 20 or 30 mins (while airing tires back up) and seeing the plume of black/blue smoke out the back when I left.

 

Thanks. I had no idea.

Damn, vehicles have become complicated. Can't even imagine what the new ones are like.

 

That's actually one major benefit of the 1st Gen Tundras. They have efi and power stuff, but don't have anything too much more advanced than vvt or drive by wire. I think the biggest technology hurdle in these things is the fact that it doesn't just have one camshaft with pushrods. If they had that anybody could fix about anything on them. I like power, but gm found a way to make power the old school way with 1 can.

 

Ha, they still have two less cam shafts than my 99 subaru so I'm okay with that.

 

Well that's setting the bar pretty low haha. Kidding, my mom just bought a Subaru and the memes and jabs started on day 1. She let me borrow her old car while I was waiting for the ecgs bushing to come in so I can't say too much right now. When I return her car this week the Subaru jokes will resume!

 

No leaky is good! In China they say, ‘No reeky is goo’.

Just keep an eye, and more importantly an ear, on the pump. She starts wailing and you’ll know there is a problem.

Nice score for $1100!

 

This is what I was hoping. Thanks!

 

Thanks everyone! This made me feel a lot better about it. Great therapy haha. I can tell this is an awesome group.

 

It says use a steering wheel puller, but I just used a standard crows foot. It's a little awkward but it works.

 

If you deleted your power steering control valve isn't your truck very very hard to turn the wheel in parking lots? Im trying to diagnose my power steering, I replaced the pump and the old leaking power steering control valve and its still very hard to turn at idle

 

Mine was deleted for a few weeks while waiting on a replacement and I honestly could not tell any difference in the steering at idle.

 

I've seen folks on here with theirs bypassed/capped because the valve failed and they didn't want to buy a new one. No complaints. It's just a mechanism that adjusts the idle up/down via vacuum when engaged.

 

necromancing this a bit, to add some info for others.
teflon, the white one is the bane of all trades. it's cheap caca. it might get the job done, but it's extremly thin, and often very cheap
the orange/pink/yellow good stuff, very different. it's rated for, and i've used it upwards of 4500psi on compressed air/nitrogen and hydraulic systems.

as for the power steering air control valve, it's only going to raise the rpm a bit. if your steering at idle/stopped is really stiff, it's probably not that.

white smoke one startup, might be that. check the vac lines for oil