2019 5.7 trans cooler location

I will ask mine and see what they have to say about it . Any external oil cooler should do as long as they are willing to install the part

 

When a dealer changes trans fluid how much of the old stuff is left in the system?

 

Here is one of my reports from my FJ that uses WS. They addressed my concern about forgetting about this sample, I had been worried that plastics would leach into it and skew the results.

 

And here is my 08 tundra after swapping to Max. The trans has 100k on it and the Max has 25k. I cant find my FJ with MAX or Tundra with WS right now. If i find them I will post them.

 

Thank you for the great info

 

No problem. The 08 Tundra hauls my big ass rockcrawler everywhere. I ran WS in it for 100k and it has high copper. Either WS was marginal, Tundra trans shed copper normally, or my atf cooler(stock) is still leaching copper after 125k.

 

WS comes out of the bottle much darker than normal ATF. I almost crapped my pants the first time I drained my Taco. But then when I was filling it I realized that the new WS was just as dark. I have both out in the shop I will see if I can get a pic.

 

Here is new WS next to new Maxlife. I dont have any clear containers handy, but the WS is much darker.

 

Based on your uoa, which one do you recommend?

 

On my 19 I will run WS till warranty is done, then switch to Max. I like the availability, the color(easier to visually tell if burnt), and the higher flashpoint. But really they are very similar, similar enough to make me wonder if Toyota has Valvoline mix their WS, just like how ExxonMobile makes their oil. I think you could run either and just do a sample analysis every 20k and be fine.

I will do the pan drain and fill with WS every 10k with an analysis. Just to watch its health.

I currently own a FJ and a 08 Tundra both with Maxlife in them, for the last 100k in the FJ and 30k in the Tundra. Both came with WS.

 

Looks like at least back in 08, WS was ExxonMobile.

http://www.kd5byb.net/Tundra/ATF WS MSDS1.pdf

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1165056

 

I recall reading somewhere that WS was listed as a life time fluid for some models of Toyota ... or life time if not towing! Do you know anything about that?

Last time I changed atf in our suv (not a Toyota) I used valvoline.

 

Huh. It appears the hard lines are connected to the thermostat with clamped hose connections. No flared tubing connections. Another decision for reliability, with the pros outweighing the cons I guess.

For awhile, I couldn't figure out how the thermostat could be installed between the can and the transmission and have the fluid passages line up on opposite sides of the thermostat. I assumed the cooler mounted directly to the transmission.

For those that didn't see earlier parts listing, the answer is that Tundras WITHOUT the tow package cooler have a spacer component that replaces the thermostat. It is clamped between the can and the transmission, and has passages that match fluid passage holes from transmission to cooler same as the thermostat. Bosses with o-ring grooves are visible on the transmission side of the thermostat. Flat machined surfaces are seen on cooler side of the thermostat, which provide the sealing surface for o-rings on the cooler.

 

Oops forgot to say I was referring to the '10. My '16 has exactly the same cooler so it'll benefit from the lessons learned. It'll keep on WS as long as the warranty goes, then it'll be changed to V. Same with coolant > Zerex asian (doesn't seep at the pump like YotaMix)

He just calls me to change it because he knows I know how to change it. And I get free food. And can join camping sometimes.

It was that thread on Tacomaworld that got him to try the valvoline. The price of three gallons of WS every year or two vs the other, plus how it wasn't holding up anyways, he decided to give it a go. It claims WS compatible right on the bottle

 

From what I've read, about 3 quarts will drain from the pan. The full transmission fill after internal repairs is like 12+ quarts. You can figure about 9 quarts of contaminated fluid is diluting about 3 quarts of fresh fluid.

Analysis of Tundra transmission fluid samples is much more important than engine oil analysis imo. If you have the change interval right, and are using good quality oil and filters, there are few surprises with engine oil analysis...benefit not worth the cost imo, but that's just me.

 

For those of you who are worried and don’t care about warranty, there is a larger trans pan option. They claim more ATF keeps the transmission cooler.

B&M 70393 Cast Alum Trans Pan

https://www.amazon.com/70393-Cast-Alum-Trans-Pan/dp/B01N9UF025

 

I didn’t know there was another option. I was surprised that there was one, much less 2. I wouldn’t think it’s a big seller.

 

LAST thing I'm gonna do is analyze ATF!

Even if negative results what could you do? You can't service the transmission!

I can just imagine the Toyota tech looking at your report and the grimace on your face crying: "There's too much copper in my ATF!!!"

Engine oil makes more sense but even then nowadays with a warranty and trickier engines.... We can still do some preventive measure but what are you going to do if your ATF report has "red flags".... besides stay up all night worrying...

 

I'm not a run-to-the-dealer-for-service kind of guy, and I'm not into hand wringing either. Do what you have to do. I would monitor the actual fluid temperatures, have the fluid analyzed for condition and properties, and take the action necessary, whether it's shorter change interval, fluid type, or retrofitting an auxiliary cooler.

If you request a Toyota dealer drain and fill your fluid at 20K miles, they'll likely refuse to do it, because we all know that WS transmission fluid is for the life of the transmission...however long that may be. Doing at least a drain and fill at 20K, followed by sample analysis, is something I would do myself if I owned a 2019 and I towed. It's a simple procedure.

If high copper, or any metallic element, is combined with deteriorated fluid condition and properties, there is likely a problem and the report would say that. If the change interval had been extended, say 60K miles, and copper was high, I would change it again in 20K, or as recommended, and continue testing samples to estimate the maximum change interval that I believed safe for my service.

One thing I have learned from this thread is that Toyota WS, which may or may not be synthetic, has only a slightly lower flash point than Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF. I'm not sure if that means anything regarding degradation of the fluids. @pickeledpigsfeet did confirm that MaxLife will degrade above 280 degrees, and will degrade faster as the temperature increases, but slower than conventional fluid.

 

That would be interesting to try.

I also used my IR gun today and the outside of my pan was within 3 degrees of what my Scanguage was reporting.

I had a 6 hour flat freeway trip with no trailer or winds. In either D or S6 with cruise on my rig got to 230 for the last 3 hours of my trip. I could get it down to 220 by shifting down to get revs to 2200. Anything below 2k and it would go back to 230. After getting home I let it idle for 30 min and it steadied at 215. So keeping it in S4 while towing is keeping the revs up, converter locked up and ATF flowing, there is no way I will ever tow in a higher gear like I can in my 08.

 

I might do this pan this spring. It will literally take an hour to swap it back to stock, only issue is if my trans was to fail on a trip and have to get towed directly to a dealer with the aftermarket pan still on.

 

Thank you for posting all these temps. Really disappointing from toyota. At least adding the cooler should be easy enough but still sad

 

Here's another check:

Transmission don't suffer problems lightly. Slight problems manifest in discernible fashion.

If 220° fries ATF and these truck essentially live at these temps we should be seeing issues already. I only have 7000 miles so far but much of that towing.... My transmission is the BEST smoothest shifting no weirdness auto trans I've EVER driven


So....

Who has had any issues with Tundra transmissions so far?

 

I have 2019 Platinum with 24k mikes and tow a good bit, but nothing crazy. Going to buy a 20ft. Travel trailer this month also and will tow a couple times a year. No problems so far.

I researched for 6 months before buying last year and this did not come up. I still trust the Toyota trans compared to the newer 8 and 10 speeds of the competitions.

 

OK

I did a quick ATF level check. Took the easy way and added 1/2 qt, got to temp and opened check valve. ~1/2 qt drained and it was about as clear as fresh! NO burnt smell!

Tundra is at 7000 miles, 4000+ of which were my full load Airstream and truck bed combined weight ~6000 lbs. Southwest AZ and CA, long desert runs, a couple gnarly grades....

You could push them harder to be sure but I was far from grocery getter status.

 

You should have sent the overflow sample off for oil analysis! It's $28, fer cryin' out loud!

Knowledgeable car guys will tell you that you determine JACK about an oil sample by LOOKING at it. Unless you have a trained nose, you won't be able to tell much from smelling it, either. By the time a novice can "smell" burned fluid, the transmission likely already has some damage. A guy that does nothing but conduct oil analysis all day may have better insight.

You need to know the viscosity, flash point, INSOLUBLES, and any metallic elements present compared to a standard reference sample. Blackstone has a specific analysis tailored to automatic transmissions: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/engine-types/transmission/

There probably won't be any metals in your overflow sample, but insolubles will likely be present depending on specific gravity. Insolubles represent the oxidation process...read Blackstone link below: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/what-are-insolubles/

"Excessive insolubles can form if the oil or engine is running hot, is receiving more than a normal amount of contamination or blow- by, is suffering more (or more severe) heat cycles than is normal, is being run longer than a typical use cycle..."

 

That’s good the hear! Do you tow in 4th?

 

I consider this BUT...

What if a negative report comes back? What could be done besides ATF changes every 5000 miles?

 

I did exclusively! I enabled Tow/Haul but was told it only works in D...

No one from Toyota could give me a definitive answer and I know towing in OD is a recipe for disaster.

I'm still not sure if tow/haul eliminates OD.....