Washboard Frontend Vibration 60km/hr + Fox 2.5

Will do, thanks!

 

That sound is normal. Every truck will do it if the washboard surface produces the right frequency of vibration. I just slow down or speed up until it stops or I just ignore it.

Its something in the dash or steering column that makes that noise, but has to be the perfect vibration

 

I appreciate the response, definitely helps put my safety concern to rest. Now how to relax my OCD.

 

Mine does the same. Not as loud as yours but same thing. Just go faster

 

The general consensus seems to be “me too” and go faster.

 

I agree that going faster will smooth the front vibration. Until the back bucks you like a bull . 4 inches is so high on the coil-overs that you have very little down travel from ride height. This can make it jerky off road

Is your traction control off in these situations? Maybe you are feeling a little of the abs kicking in?

 

Ya, as much as “go faster” is funny and somewhat true, it doesn’t solve my search in this case. . I’ve pushed it to 120+ km/hr and it only gets worse. Yes I agree, 4.5” is too high, sorting it out and alignment tomorrow night. Traction control is always off for me, good call though.
Hoping the extra 1” or so lower will help smooth things out.
Thanks for your 2 cents.

 

Personally i feel like my truck handled and rode like crap higher than 2.5 inches of lift. The angle on the arms when you go higher causes the poor feel.

If you need an alignment too that will contribute to the vibration at speed too

 

Yep, 2.5” is the sweet spot for MT. Too bad Fox don’t give a crap and sell 0 - 3” coilovers that can barely be dialed down to 3”.

 

Sadly most coilover buyers want bro height

 

I’m definitely excited for this tuning session tomorrow. It’s aligned now, but will need alignment again after preload adjust.

 

Performance please.

 

Ya, an interesting measurement they have indeed. Glad I’m not missing something.

 

That just means the springs are too heavy. Fox specs them for trucks with bumpers winches and skids. They came with 700# coils when I was MT back in 2013. I was able to dial them in to 2.5" lift because of the gear I had on my truck.

If someone can't get them dialed down, then they just need to switch to 600# coils.

Kings come with 600# but then you can't take big hits...

Bottom line is guys need to be smarter with their trucks and not just throw sht on and call it a day.

 

you do need to make sure you're at 2.5" lift. More than that and your CVs are running at bad angles. Plus you don't have enough droop to make them ride well. If you run out of adjustment, switch coils

 

Ah yes, 700# spring rate explains the high ride height with minimal preload. Thanks for the info. I’m searching for the best ride results as I transition through my build. 700# will hopefully be perfect once a bumper and winch finds its way onto the front end. In the mean time I’m hopeful the 8 threads I have left will reduce the preload and front end height enough to be within the sweet spot as I save for round 2 of the build.

 

yeah I wouldn't worry about changing springs until you get the final gear weight on your truck

 

Again, thank you. I appreciate the information.
I’m dialling the 700# down today and getting re-aligned tonight. Shake down ride 2.0 coming up shortly.
Then for the 600# or 700# decision.

 

wait until you get the bumpers and stuff on before you spend money on coils.

and don't forget that you have shocks that are easy to revalve. The default valve stacks are usually not the best for every situation. Get your ride height as best you can, get your gear installed, figure out your final springs, then have them revalved. A flutter or double flutter will smooth out the small bumps

But don't think you're going to get rid of that rattle. every tundra will do that at the right frequency

 

Ok sweet, thank you for the piece of mind and info. I’ll post preload results tomorrow.

 

Solid! Thanks for the timeline map to saving money!
I just got my Mavcoat in the mail yesterday, hoping to keep these 2.5’s alive and well long enough to enjoy the ability to tune as you’ve mentioned. For now, the clickers are my friend.

 

Update:

Dropped the preload down to 1 thread showing. Sitting about 25.5” hub to fender.
(Approx 3.5” lift) I’m going to keep the diff drop in until I get bumper and winch this winter. Did an alignment and went for a shake down drive.
VIBRATION GONE!
60-110km/hr, same road, full air pressure in tires and still no vibration. Thank you everyone for feedback and advise, I appreciate it. Rides so much better!

 

I will add that the split collar preload ring on the Fox 2.5 is a delicate flower. Very easy to jump a thread if the collar locking screw is undone much more than 1 full turn.
Ask me how I know.
I’m sure many of you are already aware of this, I was not. But fear not, crisis averted with a little time spent on the spring compressor.

 

A bit off thread topic, but here we go.

After reducing preload, reinstalling driver side coil over and doing an alignment I’m getting a dull “clunk, clunk” when I turn the wheel 1/4 turn either direction. No sound during compression or extension in straight line. No clearance issues or rubbing I can see.

Where to look first? Any ideas?

 

Need to torque everything that was loosened during coilover adjustment, and alignment. I have never had an alignment where the lower cams and tie rod ends were torqued proper. Also look at the lower coilover mount, is it twisted all the way to one side in the mount as opposed to neutral? That will make noise as well.

 

Thank you sir. I’ll look into it tonight.

 

I think the torque spec on the cam tabs is around 176? I torque mine to 200.
Also, check your sway bar/ coil perch for contact. Tie rod/ coil contact too.

 

207

 

Is that stock spec?

 

Yep.