louscrw

IMG_0042

Toytec shackles installed

IMG_0042
louscrw, Oct 14, 2016
    • 757TUNDRA
      Your truck looks awesome! Right now mine is bone stock but I'm contemplating a few upgrades, but don't want to break the bank. I'm thinking of taking your route with the 5100s and rear shackle. My wife and I are very practical people and it's hard to talk her into letting me spend big bucks to replace the suspension and tires on my brand new truck ... lol. I'm getting closer but still not there.

      Anyway, just curious how much lift the 5100s gave you in the front? Which setting did you use? Is the ride similar to stock? Also, how much did the rear shackles lift the rear? I don't really want to raise the rear but I may need to in order to maintain a small amount of rake since I will be pulling my camper quite a bit. I like your side steps. What brand are they? Thanks in advance for the info.
    • louscrw
      @757TUNDRA thank you for the compliments. I was in the same boat as you. I didn't want to break the bank and spend crazy money on a brand new truck. Some people have it like that, not me. haha. There are cheaper ways to go in achieving this look. On the flip side, there are a million other ways to lift a truck and spend thousands more. I feel the 5100s are the best middle of the road option. I am very happy with this setup. Drives great, still have my rake for towing, and looks good too.

      My setup is 5100s middle setting (1.5" lift) in the front, plus 2 coachbuilder shims per side (1" of additional lift) for a total of about 2.5" of front lift. The Toytec shackles in the rear can be set for either 1" or 1.5" of lift; mine are set at 1", plus I have rear 5100s (provide no lift). With my front setup, I could have left the rear stock and it would've sat about level; however, I tow my boat a lot during the summer, so I wanted a little rake for that. Another option you could is to set the front 5100s on the top setting, and achieve the same amount of lift I have. I went my route bc people said the ride would be better, I can't say for sure which is better, but going on the top setting with no CB shims will save you about $60, as the CB shim are about $15 each.

      I think the ride is pretty similar to stock, it is hard to say bc I added larger tires about 2 days after lifting, so I have minimal driving time on the 5100s with stock tires (in this picture you commented on is stock 275/60/20). It may be a little stiffer if anything, but not jarring IMO. It rides like a truck, not like a Lexus for sure. I am very happy with it.

      The side steps are OEM that came as part of the XP package.
    • 757TUNDRA
      Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it. I'm likely going to go the same route that you did with the 5100s, CB shims and rear shackles. I just can't justify spending $1,500 on a new suspension for a new truck, then new UCAs, then tires, then wheels ... my wife would kill me ... lol.

      The new tires really set your truck off. Did you have any rubbing with the 295/60/20s? Did you have to trim or remove anything? Are you still running the stock UCAs, and did you do the front diff drop?

      Thanks again for the info.
    • louscrw
      @757TUNDRA Yes, there was rubbing with the 295/60/20s, but some of it was probably from the +18 offset wheels. I removed the mud flaps in the front, pushed the liner in and re-attached, and used a heat gun to push it in some more. Yes, I'm still running stock UCAs; they aren't really required until you hit about 3" lift, and I'm a 2wd, so no front diff. I did add the carrier bearing drop with the lift. It's only like $12 from Toytec, but needed since we have a split driveshaft to help keep it inline and prevent vibrations
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