***UPDATE***Tech12volts door and/or dash speaker group buy.-valid through 2/28/19

James are the factory jbl speakers 2 ohm? with the Uno's being 4 ohm doesn't that reduce output of the factory amp? Is it noticable? Can you run the Uno's 6.5 woofer and keep the factory tweeter?

 

Correct. if you get all those speakers, it really sounds like a lot when you put it like that lol. if you dont have tweeters in your sail panels now, you'd have to either cut a hole in the ones you have or buy new ones.

 

@james@tech12volts will know. But obviously if he recommends these particular speakers for this application out of hundreds of other choices, they must be the best fit for this application.

 

I'm in if that ends up being a group buy too!!!

 

I would be happy to put together another group buy with James. He's a pleasure to deal with, at the end of the day its totally up to him and if he approaches me for another I will gladly do whatever I can to get it off the ground.

 

Thanks for the info!

@james@tech12volts
So is the 5 ch amp needed for this GB set up to work? Unless I missed them somewhere, do you have 5 ch amps on your site?
If amp is needed for the speaker set up, what other wiring, harnesses, etc. will be needed?

I prefer/need things as much plug/play as they can be...

Thanks @Pudge for getting this together!!!

 

What is a sail panel and how much are they? Are these speakers just replacing existing ones? Do wires have to be ran to the head unit?

 

This is a sail panel. Trucks with the JBL system have them with tweeters installed. Idk if non JBL have these, they may just be solid panels. James sells sail panels that tweeters can be installed into on his website. https://www.shop.tech12volts.com/product.sc?productId=566
Yea this group buy is for speakers that replace the existing speakers in your truck. Included will be brackets and harnesses to make them all easy to install / plug and play. There is no need to run any wires to the head unit at all. This package is a great option for keeping the factory head unit, but will also work with an aftermarket head unit, and/or if you add an amp into the mix.

 

I don’t have the tweeters in the sail panel...is it still plug and play?

This damn site is why I can’t keep my credit card bill paid.

 

@tightywhitey You'd either need to cut your sails or buy his pre-cut sails for $60. I'm going to have to make that decision when I jump on this in a couple of weeks, if it's still available.

 

Just ordered doors and dash!
Thanks Pudge! Thanks James!

 

It would pretty much be plug and play. You can spend the extra 60 for new sail panels or you can mount the tweeters to your current panels, this would require cutting a hole. My guess is that the speakers come with a template and a few options / brackets for mounting the tweeters
Edit: the tweeters do come with mounting options. So you can definitely use your current sail panels....
"Features
Tweeter Mounting: Brackets are included for flush mounting and angled surface mounting (60° or 30°) the tweeters. If surface mounting, holes for the mounting screws and wire will need to be drilled."

Here are some Pics of flush vs surface mount into / onto sail panels that dont have preexisting tweeters

 

Where does the tweeter go for the rear door speakers?

 

On my platinum they go here

 

Same place on my 2018 SR5 CM.

 

Any ideas where in rear doors of a dbl cab?

 

Hmm that's a good question. My guess is that the rear speakers in the double cab are 2 way and not components. You'd have to find a place to surface mount these tweeters if that is indeed the case. Your best bet will be to email James for further info on this because he's the expert here.

 

Thx I may need to change to Coaxials. Ill email J.

 

Pudge, when you get yours installed you'll have to do areview, without James answering my questions Im not going to spend another 300.

Cdt makes a 2 ohm woofer that I'm also considering

https://www.cdtaudio.com/2ohm/cl-2ohm/cl6ebe2.php

I honestly want to know how noticable the reduce output from the factory amp is going to be with the Uno's. The factory system has a harsh cut over from subs to mids so that much less power might be extremely noticable or not at all.

As it stands, I love the 12volt sub but I now am definitely adding a small amp to give it a little more punch.

 

Did you email him with questions?

 

The dude was literally on the forum last night answering other questions on the thread, why are you possibly pushing this hard on this particular group buy?

But I will go ahead and send a email as well.

 

He's not. He's a valued and long time member that's simply getting a good deal for the community here and answering questions that he can. The ones that he can't, he's directing folks to email the vendor rep that isn't on the forum 24/7.
If that's something that you're having problems with, you can go it alone and find other ways to purchase items for your truck.

 

I said sir I said sir, that's not how this has gone down, first OP direct my reasonable question to James @ 12volt then I was told to trust that this particular speaker is best, and lastly to ask directly off the forum my question. (I submitted on his website)

I don't know about you, but loosing half power for a already weak amplifier is a valid question. As soon as I get the answer from the email I will post it.

The uno's could be a higher impedance but be reactive with less current to recreate the same sound, I don't know, I think it's important

 

$300 is actually a great deal for everything included. Comes w two sets of components, dash speakers, custom mount brackets and pnp harness.

The speakers you linked is $100 for a pair of mids. No crossover. No tweets, no mounts.

I also put in an order and will defiantly put my opinion once installed.

Thanks @Pudge for helping put this together. Myself and a lot of folks are grateful. Also thanks to @james@tech12volts for working with us. This is a great stuff!

 

Blue bottle that wasn't my point I think 200 hundred for the door is a fine price. BUT .. your buying speakers that are a different Impedance than factory, less power output? Less mid bass? The door speakers only have mid bass, how do you get the highs to the tweeter? Or do you replace the factory tweeter then the uno cross over isn't being used?

I Thought this was supposed to be a upgade for the JBL system. I just want to know this stuff before buying.

I sent a email to 12volt, hopefully I get the answers and post them up. I'm not knocking the group buy OP or vendor I just want to know a few details.

The speakers I linked are just 2 ohm mid woofers, not easy to find, I would have to take the chance and purchase to see if they sound good. James at 12 volt does a ton of tundra's so I would think my few questions are not a big deal.

 

I piecemealed install the dash speakers from James' store and now they overpower the door speakers in audio output...and i mean that in the best complimentary way possible...if i had the time and knowledge to do the doors and amp along with the sub i got from the group buy along with the dsp i won thru james' raffle on a tundra fb page i would do it...looked into one local installer and got up with james again about it and he clearly pointed out to me how it would be against my best interest to steer clear of this installer so ended up getting an appointment to just drive to his shop and have them install the system...I trust his knowledge and experience in setting up Tundras with no hesitation whatsoever. I just wanted to give the credit where it is due. I would gladly post some pics or a vid post install.

 

I can answer here. The impedance on door and dash to the factory seem to be better matched at 4 ohms. and is here my theory on why . Now this is just my theory after 26 years in the industry but I can tell you the aftermarket speakers we choose sound better at higher volumes than the factory do. My theory is I think the factory amplifier is non regulated and suffering greatly at 2ohms . I think that's why it distorts so badly with the factory speakers . Especially in the 14 to 19 tundra. To me the only 2 channels that do not seem so distort badly at 2 ohms are the mono channels and i would guess that is because its set up differently for the mono channels than the stereo channels . Just like an aftermarket 5 channel . The mono channel does great at 2 ohms but the stereo channel when you drop them to 2 ohms seem to distort quicker due to damping factor drop from to the 2 ohm load . so any power gain you are getting from the lower impedance you are not able to use because you lost control of movement of the speaker. So when you raise the impedance to 4 ohms you get the control back and are able to turn the amplifier up higher with less distortion than before . That is why our package has the sub and center channel run at 2 ohms as those are the mono channels of the amplifier and all other channels are 4 ohms . Hope that makes sense to everyone. If you do not understand what the damping factor on an amp does or how impedance effects its . here is the definition.
Amplifier damping factor (DF)is defined as “the ratio of the load impedance (loudspeaker plus wire resistance) to the amplifier internal output impedance.” This basically indicates the amplifier's ability to control overshoot of the loudspeaker, i.e., to stop the cone from moving . Basically it is the amplifiers ability to control the movement of said speaker . And the impedance cut down on that control greatly . less control means more distortion .

Unlike some companies we like to test and understand the factory system before suggesting what needs to be changed. We spend weeks with JBL Tundras and a scope and rta to see where all the speakers are crossed and where the signal and output starts to clip. And every single output in the JBL system is crossed over . This why you can not get full range signal with just four inputs to any processor .

 

Fantastic, thanks for the reply, I noticed that the mids on the factory system seemed to distorts like crazy.

One more question

How do you install the uno's ? Do you just plug them in the factory wiring? Or do you rerun the tweeter wire from the uno's cross over?

Thanks again