What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Hmmn. My 02 came with a cheap ass spacer lift over cheap ass mud tires 285/75/16. I don't notice any trouble with responsiveness, shift points, or curbs. I suppose it may have been re-geared, but I've seen no indications I'll need to re-gear.

I hope I'm not missing anything, because I plan to put the same size on after we install the LT suspension.

 

With my 35s, stock gears on my 04, my truck still feels pretty fast. I'm still able to punch it and get where I need to be quickly. These aren't race cars, but I still have plenty of power. Towing isn't bad either. I will regear eventually and probably throw a locker in as well, but right now the truck daily drives just fine. I do get about 11-12 mpg though

 

Curious to know how many miles you have and are you the org owner? Wondering if I should do a purge mine. Guessing it would only benefit me and interested to see if any chunks come out of mine. 120k for me

 

Check your steering shaft boot. Get underneath your vehicle, driver side. Where the steering rack meets the steering column. Follow that shaft all the way up into the cabin, located right next to the exhaust manifold shield. Shine a light and see if that rubber boot is torn. A lot of times guys will hear a tick, think its an exhaust manifold leak (4.7 well known for that issue), and replace it with headers, only to continuously hear the same tick. Myself included.

Changed the boot out and it sounds brand new. Quiet as can be inside the cabin. Its surprising how much noise that rubber boot prevents from leaking into the cabin.

https://youtu.be/9zf3NMW5L3w

 

156K miles. I'm the 2nd owner and purchased it at 138K. Honestly, the purge is probably a good thing but I think there is definitely a level of risk involved. After reading more on the subject you are taking the chance in an old engine that you create problems. Having all that gunk break loose could be a problem. How much risk is hard to say.

 

I hop curbs all the time with my 295/75r16s, no problem. The extra HP helps.

 

You try wd40 yet?

 

Ran the VIN on Toyota's site and found out my truck has an LSD.

 

Gave the ride a good wash yesterday, paying special attention to the frame and suspension. This winter mud in CO sticks like glue! Got another storm rolling in this weekend so it probably won't last long.

 

What are you guys using for diff fluid? I'm going to do the F&R diffs and transfer case, and saw that the manual specifies

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 for the front diff and transfer case, but 75w-140 for the rear diff.

Mobil 1 75w-140 is $21/qt and I need 5 qts

 

My 2002 must have different specs than your 06. The manual for the 02 calls for 80W 90 in the rear diff.

I used Royal Purple

$39 75W 90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75W 90 for all 3(Front/rear diff and T case). I signed up for emails from Advance Auto. They constantly send me 20-25% off coupons. I was able to get the Royal Purple for a decent price.

 

That has to be a typo for the transmission fluid. There is no way it only holds 2.1 quarts. Anyone know how much they got out when they did their last drain and refill?

 

I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure it said 4.2 qts of 75w-140.

The transmission holds much more than that, but most is stored in the torque converter and doesn't come out when you pull the drain plug. Technically to get all of it out, you need to do the drain & refill multiple times.

 

What I did was pour out 2 quarts of amsoil atf and marked the exact amount in another container. I would drain the old atf and once it hit that mark, refill it with new atf (2 QTS ) and button everything back up.

 

Do you have the LSD in the rear?

If you do, it’s

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 and you need to add a LSD additive. I use Mobil 1 LS in the T-case, front and rear diffs.

 

I've got the "Auto LSD" button, but as far as I can tell I still have an open diff.

 

I assume you don’t have this sticker on the rear pumpkin?

 

Sorry and this of course double checking to make sure you have the correct amount to begin with .

 

Since we have a heat wave today (it's above 0°), I'll go out and check in a bit, but from what I've read you either have an open diff, open diff with the 'Auto LSD' function (basically just uses the brakes to give you a similar effect), or an actual LSD.

 

Copy. I’m not familiar at all with the auto LSD but I think Luis is. @Darkness

0*? It’s a toasty 65 and blue bird out west. Damn, I even had to switch from a beanie to a ball cap when the sun came out.

 

I have the LSD sticker on mine.
I'd like to change my Rear diff fluid before my King of hammers trip next week.

 

That is correct info. Cross checked with paper manual in glove box. The transmission holds more but that amount is what drains out unless you do a pan drop and/or purge. The plug is higher than the filter/pan. So not all drains out. Also, some is trapped in other parts of transmission. I believe the total amount is near 5-6 quarts.

Kinda like the turkey baster method for brakes/steering fluid... you refresh and drain and refresh to get it all out unless you have that vacuum pump tool that sucks and fills which a transmission service center would have (05/06 models need this as they have no dip stick).

This is why I am going to start doing my transmission changes every 10k miles (every 3rd oil change) instead of waiting 50k miles like everyone does. Easy to do the drain and refresh (2.1 qts) as its right there next to the oil plug. All your catch buckets are all there ready to go.

 

65° sounds fantastic right now; we won't see that for another 3 months.

In the middle of a cold spell right now, when I woke up this morning it was -18°, with windchills near -40°. To be fair, it NEVER gets this cold here. Typical temperatures for this time of year run around 30°.

 

I have the LSD.

I just changed all diffs (front, back, and tranfer case) to Mobil1 (Synthetic)

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 per specs***. Even called the stealer***. Stealer says they only put 75w-90 in all 3 cases.

***Denotes 75w-90 is spec’d for front diff and transfer.
***REAR DIFF IS SPEC’d at straight 90W.

Nobody sells straight 90w. Not even dealer. Online search is fruitless. Why does the dealer not put in or sell what is spec’d?


Mobil1 Syn 75w-90 gave me a grumble in the rear diff.

Ended up changing it out after a weeks drive time to Lucas (Dino oil) for Limited Slip 80w-90. It works fine and costs less BTW. Did not need to add LS Additive.

 

I believe our earlier models have the true LSD inside the rear diff (00-03?)

04-06 are the ‘fake’ LSD that uses the brakes to achieve the same effect.

 

Another member recently said they got out a full gallon during a drain and fill. Am I supposed to change gears during the drain to help more fluid out? I thought I read that.

My Turkey Baster I bought already stopped working. Not happy about that. Tried to suck out brake fluid and failed miserably.

 

The 05-06 5 speed drains about a gallon out (I believe the exact figure was 3.7 or 3.8 qts). Must be different on the 4 speeds.

 

I’m basing my assumption on the specs for 02’ year. Also, basing my assumption on reading others with 02’ year. I’ve gone as far as looking at 02’ year transmission exploded view drawings because I’m weird like that.

 

That ‘sucks’.

 

A lot of variables in our 1st Gens.