KING 3.0 coilovers

Fitting and retaining full functionality is one thing. Fitting and using it only on the street is another thing.

 

@n2deep my fox set up was great. I can’t really give an accurate opinion on it cuz I had stock shocks in back. But they were good for the set up I had. I had the opportunity to get the 3.0s at a good price so I did it. I love them, they are pretty a good all round but sometimes a little rough in small repetTive bumps. Maybe that’s tire pressure maybe it’s shocks but the set up as a whole is amazing! I was turning tube is the rear for like a month straight. I feel like I’m at a good point now and don’t want to mess up what I have.

 

i rub slightly on full compression, there's rubber scuff marks on the metal of the inner front fender..seems to be right below the fuse box area and not as far forward as the battery. Its not hitting as hard as you and alex are experiencing so mine isnt cracking, its just a very light scuff and thats only when i bottom it on big stuff by accident.

other than that...turning right left, rolling over rocks i dont hit anywhere..and in the rear i only touch on the back side of the inner plastic fender

are your stock bumps bent from taking big hits? sounds like you have ALLLLLLL the up travel

 

Bumps are not bent. But my UCA and tires hit the inner upper fender and have self clearanced to the point the fender is cracking so I took a BFH to it. That's why I can't imagine being able to run 37's. I do run a true 35 and most 37's are 36.5 other than BFG's. So only need another 3/4 of an inch.

 

I have better pics in my build thread I think. You gotta chop the piss out of it. And not run camburg uppers. They induce too much caster. We have adjustable uppers that let us get the alignment right while the lower is thrust all the way forward.

True story. Ask me how I know. Oh, you know how I know.

 

dont you want maximum caster kev?

 

Saw these today, stock length upper and lower control arms by LSK. They will fit 07- current Tundra’s.

 

Yes but no.

The amount of caster built into Camburg arms has been known to cause issues.....I still run them.

They are 7+ cams nuetral. If you remove caster the wheel actually moves back to the cab mount. With that as well, may run into some contact issues with running 3.0s

 

My Kinetik arms are +7ish.

 

nice but I like the new offerings from TC better. LSK late to the game with Toyotas..

 

Not necessarily true. I am not personally paying 2400 for lowers....let's see where LSKs come in price point.

 

I hear you but LSK not gonna be cheap imo.

 

$3088

http://www.chaosfab.com/2007-2017-Tundra-Stock-Length-Lower-Control-Arms-87555-R

 

We shall wait and see.

 

So maybe it was TC non race for a Taco that ran 2400, couldn't remember exactly....but I recall it being coin

 

I dont remember the Tundra ones being over 3k!

 

I like the TC options with adding bypasses or not. race vs street. give you options but yeah $$$$

 

Factory OE lower are easy as hell to fit for secondaries

 

$3100 for LCA’s is crazy expensive! Add UCA’s to that and your at around $3900 for stock length arms. The TC LT kit with UCA’s & LCA’s is $3500. I realize you need axles if you have 4wd and glass but damn they are proud of those LCA’s.

 

I’d rather have LT for that price!

 

I had to take a bottle jack and push my inner fenders up almost 1.5" all around and trim the forward fender mount. I also completely folded my rear pinch weld.

But my body mount is untouched. I pushed my wheels forward all the way with the lower control arm (you have to make sure they are square to the frame so you don't have uneven wheelbase) and then had the alignment done using the upper control arms. I have about 7 degrees caster

37's arent that difficult to fit whether you're LT or MT. You just have to make sure you have the correct wheels and alignment. Its not enough to say "I have 7 degrees caster". You can get 7 degrees in a lot of different ways. The key is to move the wheel forward and then achieve sufficient caster

You need a lot of caster for good handling. But its not enough to say "I have 7 degrees caster". You can get 7 degrees in a lot of different ways. The key is to move the wheel forward and then achieve sufficient caster. If you use a UCA that creates "7 degrees caster" its not going to move your wheel forward. The only way to do that is with your LCA

 

One more thing. I can't for the life of me understand why anyone would pay that much money for stock length arms. Just get LT

 

Pretty much all of this. Everyone says ‘get as much caster as you can’, but they’re only thinking of one aspect of handling, and that’s return-to-center (and by association, stability feel, or a lack of twitchiness). I would assume that most people who say get as much caster as you can, are just repeating what they heard someplace else.

We have a tendency in the off road community (and every car community actually) to listen to someone who was successful doing something, and then turning that into the rule book for everyone to follow. Yes, high caster makes the truck feel stable and it returns to center nicely. But it’s not great in rocky situations where you may have the truck static and cross axled with a tire face into a wall. When you try to turn the wheel in some of those situations, your also using the steering rack to lift the truck.
You’ll notice what I mean if you sit in the truck on flat ground and just run the steering wheel from lock to lock. The hood will lift and change angles just sitting there (this happens with any amount of caster, it’s just exaggerated at high degrees).
I’m someone with actually rock crawling experience like @ColoradoTJ can talk about caster in the rocks better than I.

The other thing is responsiveness on tight trails at high speed. We keep our caster low, slightly negative camber and a slightly negative toe in order to have responsiveness in the dirt. Our truck doesn’t wallow or roll much before changing direction. I talked to Keith @dirtydeeds about this the first time I went for a ride with him in his truck. It was still super stable, but changed direction quickly. Anyone with dirt track or offroad racing experience can expand on the point.

Alex made me hip to the concept of squaring the lower to the frame in order to ensure the wheelbase stays even. I didn’t do that on our alignment and just ran both lowers as far forward as possible. I need to check for equality on each side because I think we’re dog tracking a little. I may need to trim the front bumper a little more so I can even out the lowers.

Long story short, alignment should be as much a personal preference ‘aligned’ to your goals and style of driving, as much as a tool for clearing whatever size tires you want. Not just an attempt to reach specific numbers.

 

i have nothing to contribute.... just want to keep up with the drama

#FOMO

 

reading on LSK page last night i think it was the gram that they said their shooting to keep prices around what the tacoma arms cost which on the website only list the uppers ar 700ish i think

 

Your offset is killing your fitment, need to be more inside +20 at max to +30mm

 

Well this is an interesting thread ... I’ll try to not shit all over it. Still catching up on 15 pages of good info and convo...

So far only thing I’ll say about LSK doing stock length uppers and lowers... if they beat out TC on price that makes them super competitive even being “late to the game” they will find a market for Mt guys wanting to add the bypasses w out the complication of welding in a mount or 3000$ + TC stock length lower arms.

I have seen their work it’s good stuff. I’d say give them a chance and opportunity to prove us all wrong but I don’t think they will. Someone needs to get them on here so they can speak for them selves

That all being said good convo on the alignment stuff @KevinK @osidepunker

Ok back to shitting up a drop bracket thread!

 

Anyone having to trim their sway bar to fit the 3.0 lower cups? I think I might have some rubbing issues, but it’s also not on the ground nor aligned yet.

 

@the_midwesterner king made some spacers for the LCA that move the lover part of the shock back. But I also do not run a sway bar so I couldn’t tell u for sure.

 

im sorry did someone ask about running 3.0's and running a sway bar? i dont think you understand how all this works...