Better Braking Brakes! Easy!!!

Thanks! I'll do this as I want to keep this truck as long as I can so any preventative measures I can take are good. It was used pretty hard by the previous owner

Thanks! I have no idea about the frame.

 

Are you in a high salt area? I would definitely check the VIN to see if your frame is original. It's good info to know since you plan on keeping the truck a long time.

 

As far as I know the truck has spent most of it's life in western CO so I don't think a lot of salt except from snow plows and mag chloride.

 

Check your cross-member where the ends tie into the c-frame. Thats where the problem usually begins even in low salt areas. Load the crap out of the frame over lapping with a grease needle as much as possible there. Spray some penetrant in there too.

 

Yours looks to be where mine is sitting currently post adjustment. Mine originally was bottomed out at the lowest setting of the threads for 16 years. No way to know whats right but your feel by driving. My adjustment location has improved the braking hugely.

 

OK, I'll check it.

Wish I could get my truck to brake like my 06 4Runner. Every time I drive that thing I want to buy it back from my parents.

 

I need to do this as my front brakes are doing all the work. My ebrake cable is also drooping, not nice and taught like those are.....ah the joys. Blech.

 

I'm really afraid to look inside my rear drums. Im not positive, but I doubt the previous owner did anything with them. Once I do decide to open them I'm going to replace every part or pay someone to do it.

 

I just pulled the trigger on new pads, rotors, drums, shoes, and upgraded brakelines. So I feel ya.

 

I have a 2003 Tundra sr5 4.7, and they had a recall on the brakes as I'm sure you know, and I had rear drum probs and still have shaking when I'm braking. I'm a poet and didn't know it.

 

IF THAT IS YELLING AM I NOW SCREAMING? Hopefully you are only using that braided line at the ends to the front calipers, or the one flexible one in the back. dope Too late

 

You took the drums off? Speak to me master Yoda and tell me more of these things

 

Has anyone ever tried, or is it possible to adjust the anti lock braking system on a gen 1 Tundra? I have come to believe the braking bounce I am getting is from the abs system and not from the load proportional valve.

 

If one wanted to bypass the ABS temporarily to test your theory, then they could disconnect the sensors at the 4 wheels. Or, and easier option is to remove the fuse at the panel temporarily.

Only for theoretical test purposes and not recommended.

Never heard of this bed bounce (cue the Office jokes up).

 

What is this Anti lock brake system you speak of.

 

Well, I tried to adjust mine as all of you have, and my adjuster bracket dohicky snapped off. Anyone know the actual term for it? I can't seem to find it after scouring every parts diagram and auto parts site on the internet.

 

Rear brake propositioning bracket?

 

tried that and a million variations. turns out it's called a "Load Sensing Spring Shackle" Who knew?

for my 2000 4.7L 4x4 the part number is
47936-35050

 

Isaami. This is for the 2002 but probably works for your 2000.

 

The pop up is on it's way out in place of the teardrop

 

Should he see a doctor about that? Asking for a friend.

 

Depends on ones perspective.

 

And the pop up camper helps who.........Yoda?

 

I would like to do a rear disc conversion but don’t want to lose the parking brake function. No I don’t use it but I don’t like disabling factory stuff. What are the options others have found?

 

@Pinay sticky? I forgot about adjusting the rear propositioning valve.

 

Place thread in 1st gen Tundras Info thread?

 

I think so. It's a handy tidbit of info, and PHM deserves a sticky.

 

Thanks, but we’ll keep this info underground. A moderator here, by the name of Jerry, turned me on to this anyways. Its his info.

 

so you loosen both nuts so the bracket goes higher?

 

Yeah. Be careful because some members here have broken the assy in one form or another due to not being mechanically inclined.

You’ll need two wrenches (10mm?). Hold the bottom nut firm with one wrench and loosen the top nut with the other wrench. Twist the top nut loose about 1/4-1/2” higher on the post depending on your needs and then raise (turn) the bottom nut/bracket up to the higher relocated nut and tighten.

I raised mine approx 3/4”.