Better Braking Brakes! Easy!!!

This is where mine is.

 

Yours is higher than mine was (which was bottomed out). Yours being an 06’ might be different than the 02’. Its an easy adjustment and you can always bring it back to the old location if not serving your purpose.

 

So I should take it up, as in closer to the end of the bolt?

 

In my case it (the nuts) were at the complete bottom of the rod. I raised mine higher up the shaft about 3/4” kinda like yours pictured are currently. Yours being a different year might require a different adjustment up. Or, it might be good where it is. Either way, its an easy adjust readjust back if needed.

 

I'll get out and check mine tomorrow. Oil change, VC gaskets, and check the rear breather. And check the carrier bushing play. And the seatbelts "mod".

 

On my '05 the nuts are already near the top. I would only be able to adjust up 1/4" or so.

 

Your rear brake cable is caught on the adjustment rod.

 

Better? I thought it was supposed to go there.

 

Good eye!

 

Much better! You should pull your right rear drum apart and see how the pads are looking. The brakes could have been partially engaged with that caught up there.

 

Was thinking this too althought it looks like there was/is enough play in that cable to not engage parking brake. My parking brake does not work even when adjusted and fully engaged!

 

I heard upgrading the brake lines helps too. Wheelers off-road has their stainless steel brake lines 50% off on black Friday. I ordered front and rear.

 

Promo code?

 

I just PMed them thursday when I was ready to order and told them all the parts I needed and they took a few bucks off each part and shipping as well as the half off the brake lines. Sent me a PayPal invoice and I paid it. Shipped the same day. Should be here Wednesday. Saved me about 90 bucks total

 

If your parking brake isn't engaging, I would bet that the cable came off one of the routing ramps inside one of the drums the last time the brakes were worked on. I know because it happened to me once, the cable slips off easily until the pads are secured.

 

Oh sweet. I should jump on that too!

 

Here is mine extended. Very necessary after installing the Deavers

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wheelers-black-friday-deals-2018.34855/

 

I tried adjusting the rod further out on the threads, boy is that a mistake, when I had to brake from a higher rate of speed the rear end started bouncing hard. I think what was happening was just to much brake bias to the rear, so as the rear wheels were just about to lock, the anti-lock system released some pressure. And until my speed was down to a well reduced speed, the brake bias and anti-lock systems were fighting each other, causing the bounce.

So now I am trying the other extreme and adjusting the proportional valve down lower on the threads to reduce the rear braking, and we will see how it goes.

Well I have adjusted the threads to lessen the rear braking and the major bounce I felt at high speed braking is gone, but now there is sometimes a little rear wheel brake chatter when stopping. I also bled the proportional valve to see if that changed things, it didn't.

I can live with the chatter for now, but in the near future I am going to replace the proportional valve to see if it is just worn out.

 

i have the sos performance rear disk brake conversion. real easy to install. hardest part was getting new brake lines fabricated.

 

I think mine might be right where it should be.
Thoughts?

 

You have asymmetrical nuts.

 

Do you polish your axle?

 

Thats how mine looked after Fluid Film. Made it look brand new. Same with the frame. Better than paint!

 

Every night! Oh, wait, we're talking about trucks?

 

Might have to look into that.

 

2 cans will do you for the frame/axles. Maybe an hours worth of time. Grab a third can just in case you want to load up the small holes areas via the straw up near the front axle.

 

How does it work? Pressure wash everything dry, then spray this stuff on?

 

Make sure its fairly clean from mud cack. In my case, I sprayed without having to wash anything underneath. The lanolin oils penetrate through and loose dirt film. Only power wash if cacked build up.

 

Fred is right. I applied Fluid Film after everyone here recommended it. My truck was already pretty clean underneath so I didn't pressure wash but if yours is dirty then I definitely would clean it first. Also, take a wire brush to any rust. This was my first time applying fluid film but people report it must be done every year. I also plan on greasing a few places that have more than surface rust.

If your truck is like mine, and didn't get the frame replaced, then I would definitely protect it with Fluid Film.