Bed hop, has anyone found a solution?

I talked to dealer back when I purchased the truck used. I think the tsb you refer to is the one that replaced rear cab mounts, basically to dampen the feel of bed bounce. Didn't make sense to me at the time. Sounded more like a hide the problem fix rather than a fix the problem fix. I don't notice it anymore with changes I've made to my truck. Not sure if it's a combination or one specific thing. 5200s at 1.4 inch in front and steel bumpers installed at same time. Air lift airbags added later. Suspension otherwise is stock. Tires are OE recommended size.

As far as advertised mileage, all my buddies get similar mileage in their dodges, chevys, fords. The ford ecoboost does pretty good on gas. I drove a 2015 F150 crew cab for a month (yes a month, that's another story) while my truck was in body shop for deer damage. I think it had a 4.6 or something, a smaller v8 anyway. Was decent on fuel, higher teens most of the time with my short trip driving. It rode really stiff though. Rear end would hop if hitting bumps around corners or curves. If you read the ultra fine print on Tundra advertised mileage I'm pretty sure it says "down a hill with a stiff tailwind"

 

This thread is hilarious.
We have a 1 mile or so concrete section of I5 between two Ridgefield WA exits.
The section is very noticeable (like, annoys the shit out of my kids and wife) in the Tundra, not at all noticeable in the Lexus (car) or wife’s Pathfinder.
BUT - my old 1 Ton long bed GM Duramax, was 5X shittier than the Tundra!! It was so Fing bad in the Duramax you couldn’t even talk to each other because your inards were being shaken up like a banana in a blender.

 

Roadmaster active suspension really buttoned down my rear end..... Reduced axle hop, increased load capacity. Have been using for years in various trucks.

 

How would suspension increase load capacity? After all, something like bags only keeps your ass end from sagging and from riding your bump stops under load, it doesn’t increase payload or towing.

 

Check out the Roadmaster active suspension website. There are several videos that explain what the active helper springs do.

First put them on my father's truck about 20 years ago. He had a Silverado and used it to tow a horse trailer as well as a boat trailer. Because neither of us liked the air spring or adding leaf springs or air shocks solutions, we found these and they made a dramatic improvement not only in reducing sag but also improve the tracking and handling stability and almost eliminated axle hop. The other thing I like is you have the ability to adjust the helper spring rate in tune it to your load ccarrying needs.

First thing we did was add a set to his newest truck with the same improvements, and I added a set to my TRD Pro when I bought it last year.

On the stock setting, the RAS Springs give about a half inch lift to the rear and if I recall correctly increase capacity by 1500 lb. not suggesting this increases the GVW of the vehicle, just the standard suspensions ability to carry a load with a much reduced or eliminated squat. The half inch of lift reduced the basic nose up stance of the TRD Pro. as you know the TRD Pro has a 2 inch lift in the front which over levels the truck making the front a little higher than the rear. The RAs system on the standard setting brought the rear up so that it actually is equal to if not a little higher than the front.

But the biggest benefit of the RAS Springs is the stability it provides to the rear of the truck.

https://activesuspension.com/suspension-kits/

 

It's a truck and designed to carry a load in the bed. The light ass end is what causes the bed hop. You can add some wright to it which will help in snow, get some lighter springs and lower your weight capacity, or last buy a car.

 

Someone try this...
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...bounce-cure/&usg=AOvVaw2qBhhnUmlUOtNqGvihuOHi

 

Got the bushings in worked out well. Haven't tried on a concrete road yet but should tomorrow

Also, @Coachbuilder1 thanks for the extra fish in the package!

 

Put in Coachbuilder bushings today, added some foam under the back edge of the spare. Will report back tomorrow after driving on some of the local concrete stretches.

 

The spare tire trick has potential. In for interest in the outcome.

 

Here's a fun and interesting video showing the comparison between a Ford Chevy and the tundra on bed bounce. I've noticed that all the videos were the pre 2014 body style. Did Toyota make any changes? That bed shake is gnarly. I wonder how a cap or bed camper would fare? Looks to me like it would be twisted apart.

https://youtu.be/EWjTbiYo3x0

 

Pretty sure the only way to really eliminate this would be boxing the rear frame and or adding some sort of frame support. C channel frame is made to absorb and flex for comfort.

 

Found out that they did do a major upgrade to the frame in 2010, but is intentionally flexible for ride quality and comfort. Flex looks ugly, but is designed this way.

 

I dont think that's true my Truck is an 08 my uncle has 2011 or 2012 and they ride the same when they were stock but now mine rides better since he doesn't really do any upgrades

 

I'll have to find the article, they talked about some extra supports at the rear of the bed and frame, seems that it was the 07 year that was the worst.

 

The only changes they made were the bed bushings I'll find a pic

 

https://goo.gl/images/npuJ3W

 

I did this fix back in 2012 to mine helped but didn't go away

 

AND.......

 

Sorry, got busy yesterday. Went on a stretch of road that has bounced fairly well at 65-70mph yesterday, and, maybe a little better, but definitely not gone. After a quick check for police, took it up to 80 and was nearly gone, but, didn't need to chat with a LEO, so, was very short testing that. I drive to IA on Christmas and will see how it will do on I-76 and I-80. I also added another sandbag, so now have 4x70lbs bags. It's all I can do for a grand total of $70 (sandbags were ~$20, plus the bushings).

 

I was just having a thought. If we only had a way to add 300#s of weight that could be mounted into the hitch reciever, the bed would remain fully useable! My Tundra rides best with a trailer, so that was my inspiration for this idea.

 

Maybe an auxiliary gas tank. Would solve two problems with one mod. You can't see it, but my tongue is firmly planted in me cheek.

 

agreed...ive just accepted it at this point lol. Worst part is, after I read this damn thread....Now I REALLY notice it

 

turn up the music and go fast LOL

 

Wait.... that's how I fix everything

 

Lead bars take up less space then sandbags. Just start stuffing them in any location you can LOL

 

The c channel frame is designed to flex to provide a better ride. The only real solution to eliminating the tundra butt is to reinforce the frame to help prevent torsional rotation. Is it annoying? Yes. Is it detrimental to the vehicle with daily driving and mild offroading? No. If you are doing. Heavy offroading, you may consider getting some cross bracing for the frame and or making it completely boxed. With cross bracing.

 

Even then I think it will still bounce. I think it’s more about the wheel base. My friend has a 2005 SRT 10 ram. The frame is fully boxed and it does it on sections of the freeway as well. Boxing the frame would help with ass wobble but not bed bounce. Imo

 

I must be missing something then I was thinking bed bounce and ass wobble were the same thing.

 

No this is more of a front to back bucking. Almost the feeling of an unbalanced trailer that feels like it’s tugging at you and bouncing your truck. The assed wobble is just flex. Some have flexed it enough to create problems though. A couple guys tore some of the sheet metal under the bed along the cross bracing. But they use the shit out of their rigs and many have RTT’s with bed racks.