2017 Tundra Audio Project

I started by putting the Infinity reference speakers in on the stock amp but since they were 4 ohm it's not loud enough. I took out the stock 8" sub and put in a Rockford 12" and Rockford R250X; it sounds OK but but doesn't really hit so I'm taking it up a level. I'm bypassing the stock amp and adding a signal processor before the 3 JL amps. I went with class A amps for the component speaker because they sound a lot better but they use a lot of power and creates a lot of heat (notice the cooling fins). The 1000 watt amp will power the 800W 10's in the JL Stealth box. I still have to run the 1/0 power wire, install the distribution blocks, upgrade the chassis ground to 1/0, replace the battery terminals, and splice in the signal wires.

• • JL Audio XD1000/1v2 600W x 1 Subwoofer Amplifier
  • (2) JL Audio 300/4v3 75W x 4 Car Amplifier
  • JL Audio Stealthbox Dual 10" 14-Up Toyota Tundra CrewMax
  • JL Audio TwK 88 System Tuning DSP
  • T-SPEC Capacitor 3 Farad Dist. Digital Cap
  • (2) Infinity Reference REF-5020cx 5-1/4" Component System
    
  • (3) Infinity Reference REF-3022cfx 3-1/2" 2-way Speakers
  • (2) Universal Battery Terminal with removable charging post

 

Looking good!
did you replace the head unit?
just wondering where the signal is coming from that feeds into the TwK88.

 

No, I'm keeping the stock head unit; I'm just going to splice into the stock amp input. Not really sure why but I'm trying to keep the stock dash look and the functionality of the head unit for all of the non-audio stuff.

 

since you have a 1794, I assume you have the JBL Entune radio, as I do in my 1794. It is my understanding that in the JBL system that the signal from the head unit to the factory amp is encrypted and the factory amp decodes the signal. You will run into issues if you are just splicing into the cables before the factory amp.
I originally had a JL Fix86 after the factory amp to clean up and level the factory amp output signal to my JL amps. I have since changed to the

$299 Rockford DSR1 8-Channel Interactive Signal Processor w/Integrated iDatalink Maestro Module

Rockford DSR1 with a iDatalink Maestro cable. The DSR1 can de-crypt the the headunit signal and allow removal of the factory amp all together.

@TundraTex has researched the tundra stereos and wire diagrams, he can correct me if I am wrong

 

Why 2-300/4 amps?

 

There's 8 channels and and the 300/4's will be handling 7 of them.

 

I think you're correct, actually I know your correct, because the factory head unit sends data for volume control to the amp. I think I can use can use the amp output to the Twk88 since it can handle high level output. Why did you chose to switch from the Fix86 to the DSR1? I almost went that route.

 

My factory amp added a LOT of noise to the signal. With the fix volume knob at 50%, i could not turn the stereo up past 40 without getting a noticable hiss. I even set the amp gains much lower than the clipping light on the JL RD amp.
Once i switched to the dsr1, all the hiss went away and i could bring the amp gains up to just below the clipping light. I can now turn the volume up as much as i want

 

I used the ampro 4, into my audition Bit One, super clean signal and no noise!

I’m about to get a new head unit and ditch the stock jbl one/amp.

 

I finished the install this weekend.

Really the only issue I had was sorting out the harness to the factory amp. The wiring diagrams I found didn't match my truck so I had to start from scratch using a spare speaker and the balance/fade on the head unit to label all the inputs.

My signal path is:

Head unit -> Stock amp -> JL Audio Fix 86 -> JL Audio Twk 88 -> amps

There's absolutely no white noise at zero volume and the sound is crisp and clear with the class A amps. I don't have my stealth box yet so I'm using my 12" Rockford Wedge Box for now. The sound through that one 12" is awesome so I can't imagine what it's going to sound like with two 10's. This system definitely needs the 3f capacitor; when it's turned up and the bass hits it's pulling power from the cap with the truck at idle. I kinda figured it would since the class A amps draw more power than a class D. The amount of adjustment with this arrangement is daunting since the Fix and the Twk can both be adjusted with a laptop and each channel can have it's own EQ. I know there are easier ways to put in a system but I don't mind the extra work with a soldering iron and I couldn't be happier with the results.

 

Update - Added the JL Stealth Box and sound mats. The box is rated at 800w but it handles better than 90% of the XD1000 at 13.4V before it starts clipping. The bass all the way to max is clear and way more powerful than my taste. The adjustment of the system with the JL Audio Fix 86 and JL Audio Twk 88 is infinite. I wanted to to keep the stock head unit unless it became a clear handicap but it's a non-issue. I actually keep it turned up to max. and adjust the volume and the bass with the DRV-205 remote mounted on my center console. If I had it to do over again the only thing I would do different is to go with the JL component speakers instead of the Infinity.

 

Where did you put the ground?

 

To the chassis where the stock sub was with 1/0 from the chassis to the distribution block. I upgraded the ground wire under the hood to 1/0 from the battery to the chassis.

 

Is the factory location under the passenger seat?

 

Sounds like a great setup. If you are still rocking the factory battery, upgrade to a Northstar!

 

The ground I used for the amps is on the driver side behind the back seat.

 

Any chance you have your time alignment dialed into the TWK-88 and would like to share them? I spent a good bit of time messing with the time alignment earlier today and was getting a bit frustrated. Might help starting (or ending) with someone else's measurements and adjustment and go from there.

I just put the TWK in, and I have a stealthbox as well - am I imagining the affect, or is the TWK actually able to mute each sub independently? The stealthbox only has one speaker connection so I can't imagine how it would work, but it sure sounded like I was able to turn off left and right subs independently of each other from the Tun software.

 

I don't mind sharing it. I just used a tape measure and measure each channel to my ear. The way the stealth box is wired to get the correct ohm load we can't completely mute an individual speaker but you will notice an effect with the balance if you have it wired mono.

 

Here's my latest twk file.

 

Awesome - many thanks!

 

Made some changes

Replaced the stock head unit with an Alpine iLX-F309TND. Took out the JL Fix 86 and Twk 88 since the head unit can do all of the processing.

 

Wow!!! 7 tweeters. I bet your sound stage is pretty crisp and bright. Do you have your eq on flat to compensate? I have only 4 tweeters, all on the dash and i have to fade it to the rear about 1/3 to level out with the mids in the door. Very nice, quality system you have.

 

Hey, just a heads up - alpine released a new 11" version of the halo headunit. Isn't going to ship until June, price is $1199, but maybe worth going back to old setup for a few months? If nothing else, might want to keep an eye out for a price drop on your current one and see if you can't get a refund for the difference.

https://www.alpine-usa.com/company/...-bigger-than-ever-with-a-large-11-inch-screen

 

I adjusted the amp output so I didn't need to fade but I do flatten the front channels a little. I was shocked at the difference between this setup and what I had with the stock unit with the sound processors. The detail and sharpness of the sound is much better.

 

You can't adjust the speaker volumes separately thru the head unit?

Really nice setup and install.

 

Yes you can especially head unit with Time alignment like my DDX9905S. Not too familiar with the Alpine used above but this Kenwood also has gain setting in the built in crossover on the deck unit. I just use the fade to easily control both sides at the same time depending on the music and it's much faster than individually setting the levels. I set my amps with a DMM and turn off all crossovers at the amps. "Set it and forget it" lol. Plus no one drives my truck but me and the Kenwood has save setting feature to prevent reset after disconnecting battery. I think it's best to control the balance and crossover at the head unit since there's more features as well as preventing wasted energy going to the amps. I think time alignment is a gimmick especially in a car but thats my opinion. For home audio it's definitely worth it but you want an even/centered sound stage in a car/truck rather than focusing it all to one specific hearing position. Might be good if you're just using deck power to run the speakers and they're not enough power to center everything.

 

I’m not sure what everyone’s set up is but in mine (JBL) there are 3 speakers on the dash and a component set in each door. The Alpine, and most units, have a front, rear, and sub pre-amp output. The front signal on mine is configured for signal to the dash and two front doors. The center channel on the dash is bridged. So, in the front I can’t control the volume to each individual speaker from the head unit so I do it from the amps to balance the system. I could, one rainy day, put the Twk88 back in and that gives me another set of channels to split up the front some more. They way I bought mine from Crutchfield it was pre-wired and programmed for the steering controls but it doesn’t come with the add on to control lights and other accessories.