What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

The 2.0s are a good start. When I put on this setup ICON didn’t have any 2.5s available. But the 2.5s w CDCV are on my future list but the 2.0s have held up so far to the abuse.

I don’t have piggybacks or reservoirs so they get hot! But still keeping up. I’m excited to see how they hold up with the new leafs. I’m sure my overdue leafs were making them work harder than they should have to...

 

But I guess I should say I run with a good amount of weight in the rear on multi day trips. I think last time I weighed my truck fully loaded I was around 6200lbs

 

I'm still on the fence about rear shocks. I have 5100s but my Alcans drop around 3" further than the shocks can extend.

Considered the 2.5 Icons with the clicker things, I don't care about the clicker things but those might be the right length. Also considering the 2.5" fox smooth bodies but would prefer something with a reservoir.

 

Yeah the ICONs have the length which is nice. The 2.5s w/o the clicker are like 2-300 cheaper which is a good thing if you have no desire to adjust the ride setting. But reservoirs are always a good idea.

 

2.5’s all around are in the future for my 06. Made the mistake on my 4runner with buying 2.0’s then 2.0 RR then 2.5 RR.

 

Yeah 2.5s are worth it. Especially if you wheel your rig.

I do love seeing newer gen Tundra owners putting on 2.0s.... lol!

 

2.0’s and 5100’s shouldn’t be an option for the 2nd and 3rd gens. 2.5’s or bigger.

 

Is the gain of these shocks actually worth the cost? On a street truck the only time I could see needing bypass shocks is if you were going to the dunes every weekend. I’m curious what everyone does to need shocks like this. Please don’t think I’m criticizing I’m just interested because almost no one around southwest MO is running bypass shocks.

 

Guys running LT are the ones generally running bypasses. It allows the user to fine then their suspension set up to their likings.

I’m not running any bypasses. But The ICON 2.5s with CDCV arent quite full-on bypasses but still allow a little bit of adjustment.

I hang out with a crowd that goes fast. That’s one benefit of living out in the Southwest. Miles and miles of open trails. Speed is fun when the terrain allows it.

I moved out here (KC from AZ) in July. I miss all the open areas for exploring...

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/sgu-the-speed-glampers-uberfahrt.22323/

@ethan1911

 

When I see their 3.0s I pretend they just measured wrong

 

I bought everything to do my rear axle seals this past weekend. But I forgot to buy the bearings. And the axle seals.

 

@ethan1911 no bypass here either but It might be different climate thing. I don't go offroad nearly as much as I used to, but when I do it's a hot climate and fairly fast driving. It's good to have extra oil capacity when my shocks are working fast.

 

Can someone explain what this issue entails? I’ve noticed that occasionally when either applying or releasing the brakes there is a “shudder” I’m not sure how best to explain it. Is this what I’m experiencing? I thought it might have something to do with my lift, but this sounds like it would make sense.

 

@Tay2610 what year is it?

 

2006

 

Usually if that occurs when applying the brake, rotors are warped.

Sticky caliper includes uneven brake wheels pad wearing. My inner pad on my passenger side is about done while the outer pad still has plenty of life left...

 

Maybe next year I really wan to go Lake Of The Ozarks Boat Shootout

 

Like @Rheywood456 said, warped rotors from overheating.

 

I knew shudder wasn’t the right word. I know what warped rotors feel like. This is different. It’s a odd sensation right when disengagement happens. I think it might be axle wrap? I have 2” blocks in the back. What happens is say I’m at a complete stop and when I take my foot off the brake the truck will kinda shudder or jerk forward. The severity often coincides with how quickly I release the brake and it seems to have become less noticeable after putting on larger tires. The reason I thought “sticky” calipers sounded right is because it seems as if the brake at disengagement is rough almost as though it’s freeing itself from being stuck. I know now that’s not the case. Could this be due to my lift?

 

Oh heck yeah. My wife and I went to it this year. Does not disappoint!

We have done the Lake Powell Challenge a few times. My dad has a 30ft Sleek out there

 

Have you ever greased the slip joint on the driveshaft?

 

No, I’ve only owned the truck for two months. It was at the dealership a month ago and they didn’t say anything about it. Can I self diagnose by crawling under the truck?

 

Did this today

 

Yup easy enough, put a few pumps of grease into this fitting and see if it gets better. If you really want to get after it unbolt the flange at the rear axle and see if the shaft will slide.

 

Thanks! I’m assuming you want the shaft to slide?

 

Yup it allows it to move with the rear axle.

 

If you pump those zerks on the rear joints the grease should flow out of that shaft slide. I know mine does. Thats when I stop pumping the grease in.

 

Another road trip today. Highway mpg avg 17. Or another way to look at it, she got 230 miles out of a half tank. Best mileage in a long time.

Side note: The Billy 5100’s got a test today on some speed runs on hard pack bumpy sand. These shocks are awful in this area of testing. I love them on the road and towing, but don’t think they are made for off-roading. Overall very pleased with these shocks. I’d go a different route for serious offroad stuff.

 

Negative. Two aluminum side boxes with some light items. Maybe 100 lbs. max.

Towing semi-regular with a 3000lb. trailer.