Dan's Mid Travel Overlander Build

damn ! legit kit. are you planning on doing more Go fast pre-running type riding or still slower rock climbing ? looks to me that's the perfect setup for hauling ass in the desert

 

I want to do both for sure!

 

Also coming down hill on the trails having some whoops, I was hitting my front bumps. Of course I’m going a bit faster than I should, but this will soak those up for sure now.

 

did you have to do any cutting or welding or bolt on only ?

 

Support brackets for bottom LCA had to be welded on and small amount of trimming was needed on the fender liner above where the bypass shock mounts (about an inch). The bypass shock hoop is completely bolt on.

 

looks awesome, i did the same front set up with kings instead

 

I saw. You have a sick build!

Did you make any adjustments to your front bypasses or running them as they came out of the box from King?

 

i have not revalved them yet, if thats what you mean but i have messed with the bypass tubes a bunch. this is the set up i have found works best

short tube(bump zone) all the way turned in, stiff as possible

Long tube(ride zone) all the way out for comfort 75% of the time, if i know i am going to an area with big whoops, i turn it in 5 clicks adding more compression dampening, but at this point the small wash board/choppy stuff or small square edge hits feel noticeably rougher/more prounounced, but once you get moving 45+mph everything smooths out

Rebound tube- all the way out for the least amount of rebound dampening, AKA it rebounds back and puts the wheels to the ground as quickly as possible(since we have limited travel to work with you want the wheel back to the starting point asap)..with the weight over the front end i have never experienced a pogo or bouncing effect from running it like this.

disclaimer**
i have hydrobumps on my set up which im sure helps with bottoming, so you may have to run a little more compression in the long tube in order to delay getting to your bump zone as quick(just a theory)
Also i cut the stock bumps off the frame, which get you 2inches of more uptravel...my front end is strapped at 12.8inches..dont believe me crawl under your wheel well and measure from the bottom of that mushroom cap looking bumpstop to the weld on the frame lol, theres more inches to be had


That said i do want to revalve my front mostly for comfort, i have never bottomed my front end but have bottomed my rear so in theory my front is fine, as im already over driving the rear of the truck without bottoming the front. I want to do a flutter stack in the coilover to make it smoother over the teeth rattling chop/washboard type dirt. and go up one level on the compression valving in the bypass, just for peace of mind and a little more adjustability

 

Great info! I ended up making the first compression tube a bit softer on mine today. The front seemed a bit harsh. I need to double check to make sure that's not the bump zone on ADS bypasses. If so I need to switch the adjustment around.

 

its hard to tell from your pic, but there should be a shorter tube and longer tube..the longer one is generally your ride zone, and the short one is the bump zone...all though that term is used incorrectly..technically the 1-2inches of travel after that short tube(until shock is fully bottomed) is your "bump zone" since theres no option for oil to bypass, it goes through 100% of the valving...

by turning the compression in on the short tube, you effectively "lengthen" your bump zone, as you allow less and less oil to bypass, and force it through the valving.

Essentially your triple bypass is the stiffest it will ever be based off the valve stacks internally, but you can make it softer by allowing oil to bypass the valves..i had this wrong in my head for a long time..i thought turning in the allen key made the shock stiffer..while technically it does, its actually just tuning it to its baseline valving, As the bypass allows it to be softer depending on your adjustment

 

Id assume the first tube is the long one, which you are correct in softening that will make the street/daily driving ride more pleasurable...generally for street driving you wont compress the front enough to hit the short tube..so leaving it all the way in(most compression) goes unnoticed and doesnt effect the ride..which is why i leave mine full stiff and adjust the one you did based off the terrain im on

 

Thanks!

 

No more sway bars




@831Tun No more rock rake

 

Been contemplating this....

 

Do it! Sway bars are for wussies who want their wussy trucks to drive like wussy cars.

 

Where the skids at though!!?!!

 

Waiting for RCI skids to be shipped. Bought them labor day weekend

 

There might be hope for you yet....

 

You can always put 'em back on but I bet you won't.

 

have you taken it offroad since ditching the skids

 

Not yet. Saturday will be the big test!

Edit: do you mean sway bars?

 

Side question here. Did you have to modify the space for the spare to fit that 5th wheel in there?

 

Yes sir. Removed one bracket with a grinder and drilling out 2 rivets.

edit: and spray painted the bare metal black.

 

Always hope for the person who brings the bacon to our trips and makes the eggs for breakfast

 

When do you wanna go pismo? I wanna see those secondaries do work.

 

A weekend we don't do a wheeling trip

 

Time for onboard air instead of portable air. Waiting for my mount to come in and then I will be wiring it up. Mount should be here tomorrow.

 

@dcsleeper408 You should get JP going on his front bypasses and we can both go to pismo.