LCA Ball Joint Replacement on 2007+ 2nd and 3rd Gen Tundra

I read alot of the same posts about Moog failures at low miles. Same with Mevotech, decent arms and bushings but the ball joints are trash.

 

This is interesting. http://www.suspension.com/blog/where-are-moog-parts-made/ Some good info in the comments.

I guess you could always play the moog lottery. Or, if you have a local vendor maybe go and check all the boxes.

Really wish there was a set of aftermarket LCA's with easily replaceable and greaseable ball joints for non long travel trucks. I want to say one of the fabricators around here was thinking of making some, but felt the market was too small. I think he did say the OEM lowers were already pretty good.

 

That is interesting! Definitely a crap shoot when buying Moog. I'm going with OEM. Fortunately, because my shop does alot of work for the local Toyota dealer, I get a pretty good discount on parts. I also don't want to have to do this PITA job again in 10,000 miles.

 

From the above link, it sounds like the current Moog LCA's with the RK model number have a higher likelihood of having lower quality parts. Based on comments, it sounds like Moog is aware of the issues the ball joints in their lower end line, and were planning on putting their higher quality "Problem Solver" ball joints into the RK product line. The problem solver joints are supposed to have grease fittings and lifetime warranty. That info was posted a year ago. Might have to give Moog a call and see what's up.

 

Replaced my front rotors and pads today and no more popping or clicking. The ones I took off looked fine, so not really sure what the issue was.

 

And that's why I picked up a cheap set of lower control arms off Craigslist. Going to replace the lower ball joints on those and have a fresh set ready to install so I can take off the original ones swap them out and replace that ball joint and have him sitting there ready to go for the next replacement.

 

So for those that have done this procedure, how did you get the lower control arm bracket (item 17 in the picture below) off of the ball joint? There isn't enough of a lip on both sides for me to get my puller on it. I have a pickle fork, but it isn't quite big enough (plus, I really hate using pickle forks) - I can go rent a bigger one, but was just wondering if others who have done this have some tricks. I have tried a few different things, but I can't get it to budge so far. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

I stuck it on top of the jaws of my vice and beat the shaft of the ball joint with a 2lb hammer until it popped out.

 

You removed your whole LCA correct? I was really hoping to not have to do that. Grumble.

 

Yes sir, it sucks but just mark your alignment cams first so you can get it back to close when you put it back together

 

Yea, it was a pain in the ass. Used all kinds of pickle forks, pitman arm pullers, hammer, etc. I couldn't get it. Eventually just took it in to a shop.

The toyota repair manual mentions a special tool. I looked it up and I think it was $1k+, haha.

 

I was getting ready to change out lower ball joints on my 2010. Seems like most failures are on first gens, but I also see a lot of moogs failing and would prefer to go original regardless of cost.

I’ve been trying to track down the OEM part #, but all I can find is the lower ball joint support bracket. Anyone else have any luck finding the OE joint???

 

new arms come with joint installed.

 

Not the entire LCA, literally just the lower ball joint bracket that bolts to the bottom of the spindle. The listing says lower ball joint, but it says #16 on the diagram. Which doesn’t seem to be a ball joint. I even searched that part number online and I get the same results.

 

Yes that is just the bracket. not the joint itself.

 

Carrier doesn't house the BJ, its pressed into the LCA

 

lower arms come with new ball joints. it will need to be separated from that bracket then re-used on the new setup.
https://www.sparksparts.com/oem-par...yYSZ5PTIwMTUmdD10cmQtcHJvJmU9NS03bC12OC1nYXM=

 

Right, that’s what didn’t make sense because it’s advertised as the joint itself. But the diagram showed differently.

Right I understand, but it says ball joint in every listing I’ve found, but the diagram says it only includes #16 which is the carrier/bracket.

So basically you can’t get just the OEM ball joint itself? You have to replace the entire LCA?

 

i called my local parts dept and they said that's the way to go.
moog sells separate on rock auto, best bet next to oem.

 

Yeah it’s looking like it. That’s a bummer though. You can’t beat OEM Toyota reliability, assuming you can find the part. Thanks for helping me clear the confusion.

 

I’ll do some more digging when I get the chance. I was surprised when I looked up part #’s

 

Moog is hit or miss these days with quality. I wouldn't go that route. There are a couple of other options. I went with Beck-Arnley.

I am not convinced on Toyota OEM quality when it comes to ball joints. My upper ball joints were trashed at 35,000 miles. I am at 68,000 miles now and am replacing the lower ball joints. Not that impressive.

 

I gotta ask why your replacing.

If its seeping/weeping - not a huge deal at all. Leaking and movement, yes big deal.

 

Just spoke with the local stealership. 400+ dollars for LCA assembly. And they don’t sell just the ball joint. He sounded just as surprised as I was since they sell them for 1st gens and 4runners of course. Oh well, that answers that.

 

Before I put my aftermarket UCA's on, I was noticing a popping noise when I did a slow turn. When I put on the suspension system up front, I noticed that the upper ball joints were extremely loose. They definitely needed to be replaced.

My lowers started seeping at 50,000 miles. I started getting a different type of popping sound under left turns at around 65,000 miles. I decided to tear into it this last weekend to check them out. And while I imagine I could squeeze out another 10 to 20 thousand out of them, I can move them easily with one finger, and the seep has progressed into a full-on leak.

 

You’re certainly right with the hit or miss part. I wonder if Toyota makes their own or if they outsource for them? I have 125k on originals, and the only thing wrong is the boots cracking and leaking grease, still very secure. I was just thinking for preventative maintenance as I’ve seen what ball joint failure looks like. Maybe I’ll jist ride the OEM’s out a few more years

 

I don't know, if it were me, I would replace them. At least give some aftermarket ones a shot.

 

More than likely outsourced.

What suspension were you running when the uppers "failed"?

My lowers been seeping for a while, until they are loose my service advisor won't warranty then out for me lol

 

Stock suspension. I had been running some aftermarket wheels +30 offset and slightly larger tires (275/70/18) for about 8,000 miles, though. Not a lot of extra stress, but some.

 

I’ve had a 9” lift and 38’s for a little over a year now and mine are still perfect other than the cracked boots. Maybe even the OEM are hit and miss.

I have some Import Direct ball joints I bought at cost ($16) when I worked at O’Reillys. I’d be kinda scared using those, to be honest.