Garage solutions (when Tundra won't fit)

I knew my Tundra was either gonna be a few inches too big, or a few inches just right. So happy that it was just right!!

 

I'm still thinking the best option would be a flush mount rear bumper. It would look nice and give a few inches in clearance

 

Sawsall...

Seriously though, the sheetrock is way easier to deal with. You should have enough room with that. I put one of these on my floor then:

$70 Guardian 6' Rubber Parking Curb with Mounting Holes Hi-Vis Yellow UV-Resistant for Parking Lots

https://www.amazon.com/Guardian-Ind...=UTF8&qid=1531338071&sr=8-7&keywords=car+stop

I drilled out the floor and mounted it permanently so I could not do further damage to the car or the wall. Works perfectly.

 

Holy shit Gino that is freaking awesome. My truck told me to say hi to Gino. And that it's sick of parking outside in the heat. And if you can lend it 24k?

 

Altering the garage door or front of the garage won't go too well with the HOA. You already put a hole in the back wall, just cut it out now and put up new sheet rock a few inches deeper.

 

Some might also not like truck parked outside, why I live in the country. Gonna build a 40x44 metal building for Tundra and camper to move into.

 

It depends on the HOA bylaws and the current board members' attitude. In my neighborhood they used to be very strict, but then after the economy downturn they got three different builders in there to finish the open lots and everyone brought their own plans, so the houses are not so much cookie-cutter anymore. That opened it up for modifications, as long as it still matches the general feel of the neighborhood.

If you build the front wall out a couple feet but keep the same type of stucco/siding/paint as the rest of the house, it might be doable.

It will be more expensive than the drywall idea though.

 

I've cut open the wall a bit. I'm not sure if the baseboard shown at the bottom will be tough to cut out but I need to buy a sawzall this weekend and anything else I might need. I plan to order one of those backup stops that somebody recommended from Amazon to keep from running into the kitchen with my truck. For clarification, I am not 100% sure it was load bearing. I don't pretend to be the most inclined for DIY projects so this might take longer than most people who are familiar with it. Any recommendations on sawzalls or anything else that might make the job easier?

 

Yeah, I saw that after I took the picture. It's hot today and was just trying to establish an area to cut out.

 

Cut out the whole piece of drywall you taped off. I would like to see what all is going on there. Measure how high your bumper comes up as well. I wouldn’t cut more than I have to.

 

I would be very careful with a sawzall so not to cut through the other side into the kitchen. I would use a skilsaw or something with a depth stop to cut the studs. An oscillating multi tool is also invaluable when flush cutting anything.

 

Is that tape placed where the bumper will go?

If so I see a few problems if you plan to cut anything more than the sheetrock.
1. there's power running up or down a stud in that wall, DO NOT get close with a sawzall. Cut away all drywall first.
2. That baseboard, as you called it, is the rim joist / sill plate, and likely floor joists. I assume you go up some steps into your house? You can not cut any of that out. You can only cut the 2x4/6 wall studs and you'll need to put in a header over them with some jack studs because that is very likely load bearing. And that's figuring somehow you work your way around the wiring for that outlet.
3. From these pics, you really can't gain much here if you need to remove the entire area inside the tape, other than the thickness of the drywall that is.

I hate to say it but it looks like you need plan C. Check with HOA on extending garage forward a bit. Or get some kind of flush mount garage door that installs as close to the face of the house as possible.
Or plan D and get a rear bumper that tucks in really close, or plan E.... park outside. Which I know sucks.

 

Ugh, cutting the drywall is out I guess. Back to the drawing board I guess.
Order of cost:
1. Plan E, park outside (free) (least desirable in the midwest winters)
2. Plan D $1600 (flush mount bumper)
3. Plan C $XXX (very expensive?) extending garage forward a bit. 3. Plan C(b) $XXX ( less expensive than extending garage door?) Flush mount garage door.

 

Relocate your L.P. to above your bumper or get one of those L.P. holders that you unpin and remove like in the car shows?

 

Get a remote start and have your truck nice and toasty when you get in?

 

Do you guys think this would work? No reviews on it. $1157 + tax + free shipping

Westin Automotive Products 58-271305 Textured Black HDX Rear Bumper

https://www.amazon.com/Westin-Autom...ota:tundra&keywords=tundra+bumper+replacement

 

Harbor freights

 

Or a 2x4

 

I don't see any reason to believe it's any smaller than a stock back bumper.

 

Have a suggestion? That's what I could find on Amazon.

 

You fixed your half inch problem with your hitch. Whats there to fix?

 

With the bumper keep in mind that your hitch is also bolted to the frame of your truck and sticks out further than anything else. You will need to find a bumper that replaces your hitch too.

 

The truck has a tow package. Easy way to move the hitch receiver back?

 

I HAD this problem... had to pull the mirrors in, then move a ton of shit just to get the doors to close. I got the green light to build this back in April. 24x36, 3 9x10 doors. I'm just finishing the electrical work (100a sub-service), HVAC is next. I don't mean to gloat, but I waited patiently for 14 years for this. We just got the asphalt done 2 days ago.

 

So Jealous! Looks like LED interior lighting which is nice too!

 

It is... 32 4' fixtures. 5000k I bought a bulk deal, they weren't bad. I love these things.