How many of you have the TRD Cold Air Intake?

I have the TRD CAI. Its pretty much $300 for a lid that says TRD with a washable filter.

 

On the bypass.....do I hook up one line that goes from radiator to the block and the other line that come from tb back to its self so that way there is something there and not 2 empty open lines on throttle body?

 

Does this look right?

 

Best mod yet is going back to stock intake and TRD drop in filter......Throttle body coolant by pass with TRD air flow accelerator much better throttle response and feels quicker

 

This is not bypassed but will have to investigate when i get home. This TB is turned °180 for the SC.

 

This air box and filter will get you about 550 HP

 

You want two open lines on the throttle body. The lines leading to brittle body are connected together

 

Found a YouTube vid on the mod. Configuration of my hoses are slightly different than vid but pretty simple. Will do tomorrow.

 

Donesky. Pic to follow. I have 2 questions for you guys about the bypass. It appears that the bypass connects to the thermostat housing. What I'm wondering is, does the thermostat shut off the flow to the throttle body once it reaches operating temperature? If it does there is no need for this mod. Second, the bypass hose is touching the throttle body electronic actuator. I'm wondering if this will add temperature to that electrical component which could be bad.

 

I spoke to the tundra technician at my dealership today regarding the bypass. First, he said that he is fairly certain that the ambient temperature in the engine bay during our hot summers here in Texas will likely exceed 220 to 250 degrees. And if that's the case then the hot coolant at a 190 degrees would actually provide some cooling to the throttle body in that environment. What do you guys think?

 

I decided to run Red Line in my Tundra to help prevent preignition (non yet) with the new Supercharger. I have used it in all my moto-X bikes and it really made a difference preventing preignition.

 

I had the TRD intake on my Tundra and thought it was fine until I installed a BullyDog tuner. After the install, the engine would seriously cut out at about 4,000 RPM and really lose power. I chased this for some time and Keith Carty advised me to put the stock air box back on it. I was skeptical but tried it (with a drop in K&N filter) and was amazed when the problem went away. Anybody want to buy a gently used TRD intake??

 

I still think anything adding heat to the throttle body is a bad idea. Yes, the under hood temp may be as he says but the intake air is coming from outside the engine compartment through an opening in the RH inner fender.

 

The technician also stated that the flow of coolant is severely restricted to that passage whenever the thermostat opens up. So essentially you're only flowing hot coolant until the engine warms up and then almost none after. I reversed the bypass today. I'm only out 4 hose clamps and short piece of hose.

 

Interesting, the next time I have a 5.7 apart, I'll pay particular attention to the setup near the thermostat. I'm not sure how the thermostat opening would shut off the passage as it's located where the coolant actually goes back into the engine but this merits further investigation, lol. Thanks for the input.

 

Even if the passage is shut off whenever the thermostat is open, hot coolant will still circulate through the TB because once open, the thermostat does not stay that way. The t-stat opens and closes as you're driving depending on the demands of the cooling system. As for the bypass hose touching the electric actuator, wire tie it to the secondary air tubes and it won't be an issue.

 

Brian3UR ,

Please share your secret on how to get coolant on a fully warmed engine to go below 180° long enough for a thermostat to begin closing. I would drop a 160° thermostat in with your coolant secrets so i do not have to worry about pre detonation.

Thank you

 

I'm not sure I understand your question completely. In my experience you do not want the engine coolant temp below the factory specification. Lower coolant temperatures cause the engine to consume more fuel (not fully warmed up) and will likely set a Check Engine Light trouble code. Also from my reading, lower coolant temperature accelerates cylinder bore wear and contributes to oil contamination. Cooler is not always better and (within reason) a hotter engine is a more efficient engine.

 

How are you cooling your engine under 180° so your thermostat begins to close per the above quote ?

 

@dirtydeeds any updates on the write up?

 

I am not cooling the engine to below 180 deg nor am I trying to do so. I simply eliminated the throttle body from the system by installing a bypass connecting the supply and return passages for the throttle body. I cut a throttle body up to verify that there is no "hocus pocus" going on in there. It is simply a 90 deg passage through the throttle body which I feel is detrimental to intake air temp (at least in the summer).