Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Yes I do have an apps button

 

Going to throw this question out to the mechanics of the site before I go to dealer to only be told we can't replicate the noise or it's normal but twice now on a cold start up I get about 2 seconds of load lifter noise or piston slap then it goes away. It's on a 2016 CM with 42,000 miles. To me it sounds like a stuck lifter and the only reason I say that is I had a similar issue on an older BMW. Anybody else have or heard of a similar issue?

 

Then u have entune

 

Toyotas make weird noises when cold.... they just do

 

Sounds normal to me. Mine does and my 09 Taco did. Taco got quite noisy after a couple weeks at minus 20. Lucas Upper Cylinder treatment works. Quieted down my Taco quite a bit.

 

So then why won’t my truck pick up the Bluetooth on my phone and connect the app?

 

Not sure, you have the appower on the phone? You connected via Bluetooth or cord?

 

I am having the same issue only 3500 miles does the mechanic have a real answer than there just noisy thanks

 

You're both under pt warranty still, bring it in and have them start it fresh cold the next morning. Bet it doesnt do anything abnormal.

Gotta realize oil drains out of thsee cylinder Der heads to the pan over night, if there's a split couple of seconds of tapping it's not a big deal. More commonly we hear piston slap a few rat a taps when cold and it goes away in 3 seconds. The pistona are designed to warm up and take full shape inside the cylinder.

 

Makes sense just started out of the blue did not happen any other time

 

Bluetooth. App won’t connect.

 

A question about drive shafts.

How many RWD 5.7L RCSB owners have had their drive shaft replaced?
Mine is original, and it has the metal dust cover bell on the front as pictured.



The 6th version replacement shaft looks very different, and it replaces 5 previous drive shafts.




What is leading me to these questions: The transmission oil seal 90311-49006 is leaking just a bit... is there a way to replace the seal without replacing the shaft, or must the shaft also be replaced?

 

Try connecting a cord. IT helps some phones

awesuming 2wd?
that's a parts question.... but I'm betting it's the same seal regardless of shaft

 

10-4, RWD and the seal is the part # I posted.

I am concerned with the drive shaft for the same RWD '07 with a 5.7L.

The current & original drive shaft looks nothing like the replacement shaf
Toyota lists for the truck via VIN# search and dealer parts guy look up.

 

This is amazing. I'm re-posting this from another thread I made, any help would be greatly appreciated!


ORIGINAL POST: 07-May-2018
Hey everyone,

I have a 2016 Tundra SR5 Double Cab 4.6L. First time truck owner and it's great, don't think I ever want to go back to a car, I use it for recreation and commute. However, immediately after I bought it, I started running into intermittent issues at slow speeds. Either leaving my driveway, taking off from a red light or stop sign, and even slow riding the parking lot, I felt like when I pressed on the gas it acted almost as if it were in neutral and would only rev loud and not move forward much until it finally shifted into gear. It didn't feel normal and it definitely didn't feel like that when I was test driving it along with other 4.6L double cabs. I took it to the dealership and they told me it was perfectly fine and no error codes came up from diagnosing. I told myself OK maybe this is just normal for a V8 truck - I didn't know. But it kept doing it after I took it home - so frustrating.

After some research, I did an "idle-relearn" which seems to have fixed it for the moment - haven't driven it enough to feel completely comfortable about it yet, but it seems to drive like the other 4.6 double cabs I test drove before purchase. I was thinking maybe the previous owner hauled heavy loads on a daily basis and the truck was used to that style of driving? Any one else run into this? If you have, do you know what the root of the problem was/is and did you do anything to resolve yet?


UPDATE: 24-May-2018
Well the truck went back to sounding like annoying vacuum cleaner while driving at slow speeds (0-20mph). Sounds like too much gas being used for the amount of force being provided via the gas pedal.

Sometimes it wouldn't make the sound but that was only when I had it warming up for a whopping time of 45 seconds to a minute and a half. I could tell this is the right time before taking off because the RPMs would suddenly dip to 800-900 from 1100-1200 and the the engine calmed. Anytime I drove off before any one of those factors the truck wasn't complying.. So thinking that even 45 seconds was probably a ridiculous amount of time to warm up, I unhooked the battery again, this time for three hours - and just as last time it started driving beautifully. It didn't have that vacuum cleaner sound and it purred deep and clean while smoothly shifting.

A day later it started doing it again, it sounds like my shop-vac is under the hood during this process.

Not sure what to do...I was really hoping unhooking the battery was going to solve my problem.

A) Try emptying out the gas tank completely? I have already run it down to "4 miles until empty" then refilled.
B) Take it a different location Toyota dealer for second opinion?
C) Is this a lemon and should I trade now to get the most value?
D) OTHER - I'm all ears

Thanks everyone for all the help before and in advance.

 

The vacuum cleaner noise is the air injection lol.... there are air pumps that inject air into the exhaust stream to warm up the cats for high efficiency.

 

As for the lack of throttle response I'm not entirely sure I know what you mean... the flyby wire throttle on these things are touchy as hell imo. Is there any chance you are a 2 footed driver? I've seen where people will still be on the brake pedal for a split second when trying to accelerate and the truck wont have it

 

I've done the two-footed thing, and you will swear that the truck is stalling. Bad habit!

 

Thanks for the feedback. No, have not driven with two feet while using automatics. Maybe the air injection system needs to be serviced... Based on everyone's feedback and to my unprofessional ear, it sounds like something is faulty with air or fuel system.

 

Does anyone have info (step by step), links to articles, videos or something to help me.
I am going to vinyl wrap my roof and I need to know how to remove the front passenger satellite antenna and 3rd brake light. I know I need to lower the headliner, but don't want to mess it up. Thanks in advance.

 

The fact u are afraid of messing it up kinda hints towards u shouldn't do it. Very easy to fuck up a headliner... maybe let the vinyl shop do it?

 

Most vinyl places will leave them there and cut in around it.

 

400 bucks for them to do it, 80 for me

 

Drop a pillars, b pillars and c pillars, remove all door weather strips and lastly remove any clips and dome lights /sunroof trim

 

That's a terrible vinyl install then

 

That's very true. But most of the shops are just trying to make a quick buck. You get what you pay for seems to hold true when talking automotive applications.

 

I suspect that this is just your radiator fan engaging at start up and during low speed driving to keep air moving through the radiator. It's normal.

 

@LOTSOFTOYS Have you cracked open one of the 38gal gas tanks? I'm curious at what fuel level the pump becomes exposed.

 

Actually put a fuel pump in one last week. Not sure I understand ur question tho?

 

Every couple weeks, I see a thread about "the gas gauge was on E but when I filled up it only took 28g gallons of gas. I thought my tank was 38....."
Then the answer is, "fuel pump is cooled by the gas, so it need to have a certain amount........."
My question, is this true, and at what level does the pump become exposed.