Sound matting worth it?

I had some vibration in my driver door before I did my door with the 3 layers/materials. There is no noise at all there now. The dynamat won't really help much with door parts rattling, it just cuts down on vibration on the panels it stuck too. When I did my door I tucked in foam in every little area (between wires and any metal, I wrapped some wires and the door mechanism and cables too) it seems to have done what I had hoped

 

Yep. Getting to the back wall is pretty easy. The floor is a little bit more of a project...

Nope. No rattles for me unless we include my sunglasses in the overhead console...

 

Souds like their both decent options. Thanks, hey Pudje it looks like you did alot pf research. You think you could’ve saved some $ with soundskin?

 

When you guys did the floor, did you guys put the stupid foam under the rear seat back in? Seems like wasted space

 

Yes. It holds the carpet up.

 

Dang, i was hoping to use that space

 

the esp under seat thingy uses it. you cut a hole through the carpet to mount it.

 

I don't think I would have saved money, but certainly convenience. I think I got a good deal on everything I bought. It may be an extra few steps but it's cheap.

 

Yeah those under storage are nice. I guess i was hoping to just have nothing under there, but the carpet would probably look like trash without the foam

 

I think i may try the three step process because i may only need to ad the mlv and foam on the doors. I know pudge posted where he got some material but if you guys know where i can find a good price can you please post it. Thanks

 

Foam and MLV in the doors will be very helpful on its own. The "dynamat" IMO is the least important step to canceling noise. I do like how it added some weight and bulk to the door skins (maybe get a square to go behind each speaker on the doors and one for the back wall?) and maybe it cuts down on some vibrations but the noise is handled by the MLV. I think I got MLV cheapest on eBay.

 

None for me either

 

The added mass to the door really makes it a pleasure to close lol. It feels and sounds so right. Makes me wanna just open and close it over and over, huge difference vs the doors I haven't done yet.

 

I completely understand, I felt that way too after my install, I can only imagine what that MLV can do!

 

I think anything added will help. I have to say the tinny noise when closing the doors on the tundra was the most disappointing aspect of the truck I've encountered.
I have another step or two I'm going to add to the doors. I'll update with pics here when I get around to doing it.

 

I haven't had the opportunity, yet, to hear a nicely sound treated Tundra, but my I have been able to moderately treat my last two vehicles. My tundra is definitely going to get a lot of attention in that department.

I find it adds greatly to that luxury car type of atmosphere. Granted there are limits to what you can achieve, but the quality it can add to a sound system is really incredible.

Of course I'm just repeating what has already been said, so to contribute something that might be helpful for some, the link below is a video from a really helpful individual that is quite active in the car audio forums. He is in the audio acoustics field and breaks down the pros, cons, applications ect..of the common materials available.

https://youtu.be/fp71lSN_hH4

I know I'm new to the forums but I promise, this isn't my YouTube channel. Just wanted to contribute something useful for my first post here at y'alls helpful forum.

 

Alot of good info, thanks guys. Im just not sure if i wanna start this project or get tuned and exaust first. Decisións decisión
And money constraints haha

 

Stage 2 of drivers front door.

Used this reflectix insulation to cover the outter door skin, stuck it with all waterproof spray adhesive. The hope is for some heat reflection as well as some sound help.
Also used foam duct insulation on the holes and openings of the inner door skin, i put Relfectix on the back side of the holes, becsuse why not add something to that open sticky area. I then put The plastic back on. The hope here is to seal the doors making that kind of a speaker enclosure to improve bass. I think it worked. When fading riggt to left on the radio the drivers side seems to sound better. This step took about 45 minutes. I think as I move to other doors it'll go faster now that I know what I'm doing.... .kinda. I hope to do a full door tomorrow too.
I expect the other doo

 

Wish I could upload a sound clip. The sound the door makes now when closing is so nice. It's so solid and heavy, it makes the untreated doors rattle haha

 

Just covering the holes is noticeable in my experience. Keeping the back wave of the cone separated from the front is more or less the prime function of an enclosure.

Most car audio speaker, excluding sub's, are designed for infinite baffle installations. So focusing on panel resonance and front/back sound wave cancellation will go a long ways.

Sounds like you got the priorities addressed.

Soon I'm going to the plastic sealed fiberglass panels. Couldn't fit them in my last car doors and the science behind the application sounds realistic, and being so cheap to do, I'm pretty much sold on doing it. Well, not being allowed to work on our vehicls in our parking lot unfortunately includes working on your stereo (which I guess I was supposed to of been able to of assumed), I guess that might not be for a bit.

 

Sounds like you know your stuff, I'm a novice here so any info would be greatly appreciated.

I just noticed my door trim panel won't stay snapped in. I think I'll pull it off and cut back some of the hard Styrofoam piece that's attached to it and see how that does. It fit find til I covered those openings today, it was tight but it fit. I'll figure that out soon.

 

Did the entire passenger door with all the same steps. Took me 2 hours today. Much easier second time around. Next up will be back wall and maybe under carpet of the rear area.

I trimmed a few inches off this Styrofoam piece to allow the door panel to go back on easier. That piece actually extends into the large hole in the door skin seen in the other pic. If you don't trim it, you can't cover that hole up, it won't fit back on.

 

I'll take pics of that process of the back wall and rear floor as I go and post them here. I have a feeling it'll take a while and be a tough job.

 

Starting the back wall and under seats....rear seats removed is step one. Sub is also coming out now

 

As you can see there's some deadening behind the rear seat, including a large sheet of MLV

 

Had to remove seatbelt bolts to get trim off. Then removed factory sound barrier. This will do back in later

 

Remove panel that covers the rear window motor. On this area it looks like I can apply some CLD tile material. No room for anything else.

Dont need much to kill the vibrations




Also made up a foam gasket to go around the black panel to cut down on vibes

 

When I dropped my roof liner for my roof rack I decided to sound deadening the roof. It’s not an quick or easy process but well worth it!

The first photo shows what the roof looks like from the factory. Three small strips of sound deadening material is all that on the roof.

I installed dynamat extreme on the whole roof.


After installing the dynamat extreme I then installed 1/4” Dynaliner over the whole ceiling. The Dynaliner helps with heat and sound. I plan to do my whole cab with both layers of material.

 

If and when I do I roof I'll be doing exactly that. Thanks bud

 

Got the cld tiles on the back wall. They say more than 25% coverage really isn't needed. This should be a tough to kill vibes. Which is all I want out of this stuff. The mlv is the key to my project.



Covered that with some of the foam/foil duct insulation



Then a layer of reflectix insulation over that applied with spray adhesive.