Thor Build

I'm not entirely sure I have enough pics for a build thread... but eff it.


September 2018: Just got back from Teluride CO. What a blast


April 2018: Day Alot: Had it for just over a year now. Upgrades thus far:


March 2017ay 1: 2014 Double Cab w/ 34960 miles.


Armor:
Front Bumper: nFab M-RDS
RCI Steel Engine Skid
SDHQ ABS Guards

Suspension:
ADS 2.5 Remote Resi w/ 700lb Coils
Camburg Tubular UCA's
ADS 2.5 Piggybacks
1.5" Adjustable Toytec Shackles
(Springs are next, not sure what route yet)



Tires:
35x12.5R18 General Grabber X3's
MB Wheels 352 (custom)

Lighting:
Rigid SR8 30" - hood bulge w/ custom mount
Rigid Dually Pro's - x2 - Center
Rigid SAE Fogs - Center
Rigid Radiance (Amber) - Center
Rigid Hi-Low - A Pillar
Rigid E-Series 10" - Center

Blue Sea fuse block in engine bay
All new wiring loomed with some fancy blue/black stuff.

Other:
'Murica Tailgate Wrap
Bedlined Grille/Bulge



I'm currently designing a mount/brace to go over my transmission hump that will house a CB, bigger HAM, switch mount, and other goodies.

 

Nice! Best color

 

More stuffs here.. aka I need to take more pictures. @PLC721 , @TRON help!

 

What ball joint are you going to use? I just swapped in a set of ACDelco Pro Series on an extra set of lowers I have.

 

How do you like that wheel/tire combo?

 

I hear Moog makes good stuff. How do you like the ACDelco's? Do they come with a new boot, too?

 

BA rig!

 

I have had a lot of issues with rubbing because the tread on these tires is ridiculously beefy and I'm only rockin a 3" ish lift. The tires are MT's so they're loud, but not obnoxiously so. After 10k miles I have only lost about 1-2/32nd tread. Traction is great, especially when aired down.

 

The ACDelco Pros are good quality...made in Japan. I haven’t installed those arms on the truck yet, though. A lot of people hate on Moog these days because some of the stuff they put their name on is of a lower quality than what they used to sell back in the day. Their replacement ball joints for Tundras (K-series) are probably similar quality to the ACDelco Pros, assuming they are made in Japan. Moog also sells an entire lower control arm (r-series) with new bushings and ball joints. Those ball joints are probably lower quality. Beck/arnley is another quality ball joint that is made in Japan. Probably the same as the ACDelcos/k-series. All of them will come with a new boot, castle nut, and cotter pin.

 

We’ve been looking for this one!!!

 

@UTTundra thank you for the info sir! I found your write up on the differences between the manufacturers.

 

Looks good Ryan! I'm guessing your rubbing is in the rear of the wheel well? Camburg builds a lot of caster into their UCAs.

 

Where'd you find that tailgate wrap Ryan? Looks sick!

 

Yeah, I need to have my CMC done by an actual shop cuz its definitely half assed. I only rub when I make a really tight left hand turn so its not too bad anymore. I'm running +5 degrees caster. I need to mess with the ride height adjustment on my shocks, too.

So much to do. So little time.

 

Tucson company called Centerline Graphics did a custom wrap for me

 

very nice.

 

+5 caster sounds perfect IMO. But I don't know sh**.

 

Its worked pretty good thus far. I went from -2 to + 5.. the drive down to get my alignment done was fun.

 

@boardude thank you sir. Those pics are sweeeeeeeeeet

 

Ohhh HAYYYYYYY!!! didn't see your build till now

 

That's probably cuz 70% of my build pics are on either yours or Kris' page haha

 

Tundras to Sedona Photo Dump!!!!! @TRON @PLC721 @boardude what's Christian's tag on here?

Christian please thank your wife again. These turned out great.



I've got a bunch to add, but as it turns out, my internet blows. took 20min for 1 pic lol I'll add more as I can

 

Finally got the last of the 3/1 leveling kit off, with help from @boardude. Holy crap, so much smoother on the rear end. Chopped the exhaust just above the axle, aaaaaand finally yanked out the stock spare/chopped off the spare mount holder chain thingy.


Next up, re-wiring electrical to a more permanent set up and playing musical pods with my lights. Turns out the amber back light on the radiance pods sucks - could be from the rest of my lights being so bright. Or they just suck. Not really at all impressed either way.

Current engine wiring:


-Changing out to blue/black braided loom (cuz OCD)
-Adding Blue Sea 12 circuit blade fuse block in place of in-line fuses.
-150A 4 stud bus bar for grounding
-Not really sure what to do with the relay blocks yet, but the double sided tape on top of the fuse box seems to be doing a hell of a job

Musical lights:
- A pillar - From Dually Floods to Hi/Low
- Fogs #2 - From Radiance pods to 2nd set SAE pods
- nFab bumper gap -

2 sets of Duallys w/ amber covers, (Maybe a 3rd set of pods if they'll fit. Not sure yet.)
20" rigid bar​

I'll try my best to remember to take pictures of all this as I go. I may have to hire a photographer so I don't forget.

If anyone has any ideas for bracing a hood bulge mount, I'd appreciate input. I built my own and bolted it straight through the bottom of the hood. It flexes A LOT when going over bumpy shit so my bar flops up and down.

 

I think the propper term is spare tire dangle dongle

 

what radio are you putting in? curious to see what you come up with.

 

That project keeps getting pushed back in favor of other stuff. I'll let ya know as soon as I figure out what route I want to go

got some suspension things to figure out first

 

Been busy. Here's a few pics and a list of mods over the last 3 weeks:


Broke my driver side shock which led to a whole slew of upgrades and fixes



The shop that replaced my LCA ball joint for me turned it into a mini smore's roast cuz it was stuck haha. They broke one of their handheld presses trying to get it out.



New:
-ADS Rebuilt my driver side shock
-Upgraded to 700lb coil springs
-Replaced driver CV joint
-Replaced driver LCA Ball joint
-Front Diff flush
-LIGHTS LIGHTS LIGHTS (Thanks a TON for all your help @eccracer104!!)

-10" Rigid bar w/ amber cover
-Dually floods w/ amber covers
-Moved Hi/low dually's to A-Pillar
-Moved SAE, Spots, and Floods w/o amber covers to center of NFAB bumper​

-Loomed wiring in engine bay
-Added fuse block and secured relays

-Will be adding in-line fuse between battery and fuse block shortly​

-Fixed Hood bulge light bar mount so it no longer shakes when on bumpy roads
-Fixed/Replaced hood bulge + repainted (broke too many clips to reuse old one)
-Repainting/replacing grille (broke several clips) - In progress
-Added TRD Punisher decals to bed sides for a gain of +1776 HORSE POWWWAAHHHHH. 'Murica!
-Fixed/Repainted NFAB's shitty aluminum skid that comes with the bumper. I bent the hell out of it on a log at T2S haha




To do:
- Alignment semi-corrected steering pull to the right.
- Find what's causing vibration at high speed (probably driver tire, haven't had time to have them balanced after my mishap)
- Detail interior/exterior
- Build center console bracket to house lighting switches, HAM/CB, & other goodies
- Replace/tint front windshield
- Fix remote start (or be lazy and make one of my co-workers do it since they installed it haha)
- Adjust angle of lights
- Rear diff, Tranny, Transfer flush
- Figure out what HAM and/or CB to go with and then install it. And the antenna(s).

I swear, its never ending.

 

Hell yeah the lights turned out great! Good call swapping out the bar

Sub’d for night output shots

And how’d you break a shock?

 

curious. what did you end up doing with the original front bumper and the black end caps (assuming those were dipped)?