2016 TRDPRO Power loss/Cut after tires and lift

So here is my issue after installing my 295/70/18s, CB +3 shackles and 4 shims. When at a full stop or slow roll I apply full throttle the engine will power through 1st then shift into 2nd gear. Once in 2nd gear the RPMs will hold at about 4K(sometimes the traction light will flash and sometimes it won't)for a few seconds then the power will come back. I am not losing traction between shifts.

I have the hypertech speedo calibrator installed.

Anyone have this issue? If so, what did you do to correct the issue?

Zero Point Calibration?

Thanks for any help.

 

No idea, but from what I have read, the zero point calibration sounds like a good place to start.

 

I was wondering that. The posts i read said they had the VSC/Trac lights on steady. Mine are not on steady

 

Have you tried turning off tc? holding down the button for about 5 sec will turn it off.. Maybe that might make a difference. I know s/c guys w/ 35's get squirlley even with all that rubber. Not so sure what other mods they had as far as the speedo calibrator.

 

I did stage 2 nannies and it still does it. I tried stage 3 full "traction off" and it didn't do it. I only tried once. I'll try stage 3 a few more times to make sure.

Maybe the yaw control?

 

Yes I did, I checked my speedo with my gps lap timer and it was dead on. Before the hypertech I was about 3 mph off.

I didn't go back in to the program to check if it was there but I figured if the speedo matched my lap timer I was good to go.

 

ZPC.

 

Have you done it on your 2015? If so, did you do it yourself and how? The same PDF that's out there for the 2008?

 

I was just wondering if it would be the same for all years? If so, I think the paper clip method is pretty easy.

 

Dealer did mine when 6112's went on.

 

4 from right to left on the top and 4 from right to left on the bottom?

You had the same cut of power?

 

im running a 20X9 on a 305/55/20. they weight like almost 80lbs a piece(I think, its been a while since that research) . I noticed this except my trac light never comes on. I think its just the extra weight, it loses power in the lower range of the power band. it only does it if I floor it from a dead stop. any kind of roll it doesn't bother it as much.

 

Yea my light does not come on at times and other times it does. When I get on it from stop till 2nd is when it hits a wall at 4K in 2nd gear. Then it slowly gives power after a few seconds. It does not do it all the time though.

I just called two dealers and they said about $130 to do a ZPC.

 

What is a zpc?

 

So you can do this with a paper clip and not have to buy a hypertech??

 

I installed my Hypertech Speedo Calibrator this afternoon. I did disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes. Mine seems to be a little more responsive than prior. Try that too?

 

I haven't tried to reset the battery yet.

 

Hopefully that can help. I want to attempt that Zero Point Calibration also. If you try before me, share the experience.

 

I will...lol if you don't hear from me then i guess the damn thing exploded lol

washers for the yaw?

 

I had found that post basically adding washers to the two rear bolts to tilt the back of the sensor up.

 

Here is an informative post on this subject taken from another Tundra forum...

Yaw sensor Problems
I tried to post this in the other thread but did not have permission to reply to the thread for some reason. I currently work on Bosch ESC systems with multiple brands and vehicles. I help a few race teams find optimal race settings. I understand that Toyota technically makes their own VSC system but I would almost bet my life that their system is very similar. Considering Toyota studies everyone's technology and then makes it better. Not a knock on them, just a fact. I'm a proud Tundra owner. Anyway, I read the entire thread and wanted to share my thoughts on it. First lets clear up what a Yaw sensor is. It basically measures lateral acceleration or the force you feel when you are cornering. With that being said, there is new technology in yaw sensors that also measures other factors such as pitch/inclination, linear acceleration and lateral acceleration. Basically it measures three different axis’s. Sorry if you already know this. So let's throw some theories out there based on what some people have commented about. READ THE QUOTE CAREFULLY!!! If the quoted problem is not "EXACTLY" what you are experiencing, then it is irrelevant. All theories are assuming your truck has been leveled out or the pitch has changed and you have not reset the VSC system. "My truck under hard acceleration turns on the VSC light" NOT THE TC LIGHT More than likely the VSC system realizes that you are under hard acceleration and there is above normal inclination/pitch in the front of the truck. The computer tells the injectors to decrease the amount of fuel flow to the injectors and to retard the ignition until the inclination has decreased to a normal level. Also could cut the power transfer in the torque converter or both. Depends on how they control it. If you want a exaggerated scenario; it thinks the truck is doing a wheelie. Now if Toyota is still using the single axis yaw sensor, it's not what is causing the VSC light to come on. There is probably an inclinometer sensor calculating the inclination. Solution: reset the VSC. "My truck under hard cornering turns on the VSC light" The system is working properly. "But my truck didn't do that before I had the lift" Now that you have raised the truck it is going to create more force in cornering situations. Think of it as more leverage, like when you have to get the

$144 Precision XT36H Breaker Bar Handle

breaker bar out to remove that seized bolt. At the same speed it is going to create more force. Solution: SLOW DOWN SPEED RACER "My truck is sluggish or lost power but the VSC light is off" Bare with me This is the tricky one. Like I said earlier in the post some of the newer yaw sensors have a three axis measurement. I'm not sure if Toyota is using this technology yet in production cars. This new sensor has been around for fair amount of time in the racing world but I believe Bosch didn't start using it in production cars until late 2010 or early 2011. Maybe Toyota has something similar that they have been using for a while now. Honestly, based off of some of your descriptions, I believe they do use this sensor. Let me dive into what the new sensor does. Since it now calculates data on a 3D axis it basically controls a ton of functions. Anything from fuel consumption, hill hold, airbag deployment, throttle control and so on. So let's say your truck was sitting at a 6 degree pitch before you leveled it out and now it is at 0 degrees. Now when you are driving, the one axis for inclination believes that you are under hard acceleration but the other axis for linear acceleration sees that you are under normal acceleration. Basically the computer says what the ****, am I just cruising or am I smoking that kid in the rice burner. The computer doesn't know what to do with the current data set collected and tries to make the best of what it has to work with, hence the reason for the truck being sluggish, losing power and MPG decreasing. The solution is to reset the VSC. As for sticking a shim under the sensor, it's probably not a good idea. There is really no need for it. The sensor is capable of reading up to at least 30 degree inclinations and some up to 90 degrees. Also, metal expands and contracts, as you all know, and could slightly alter the pitch of the sensor. Just a quarter of a degree off could make a difference. I know, it seems so minor, but electronics need for everything to be perfect in order for them to function properly. Bad things can happen, you know, like runaway cars and stuff like that. Just reset that sensor and all is well. Hope this clears up some concerns that you guys/gals may have. I'm probably not going to be able to reply to anybody since I can't post replies. If somebody could tell me why, that would be great. Oh ya, I started another thread about choosing a lift kit and tire sizes. If somebody could help me out I would appreciate it.

Here is a video showing the rest of ZPC and VCS...
https://youtu.be/UvtwFVT1Q10

 

Thanks for the great info. Gives me a better understanding of it all. Basically the end result is to do a ZPC.

 

Sounds like something one might need to do whenever your changing tire sizes, suspension or lifting/lowering? I'm going to try tomorrow also.